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  #21  
Old 14-09-2015, 09:17 PM
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Do the mods. If you have money to burn ditch the uni chip and get an ecu remap. When this is done you can have them stop the MIL light from coming up on the dash for the insufficient egr flow fault.

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  #22  
Old 16-09-2016, 06:49 PM
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Exclamation 2006 gu4

hi guys,
I just purchased a 2006 GU4 with the 3.0 engine with 115k kms on the clock.
Reading about the NADS modifications make me feel a little worried about the reliability of my new ride.
What makes the exhaust temperatures so high besides the EGR system and at wich rpm does it happen?
my first to do mods i thought of are:
- ECU chip to 190hp
- get a Turbosmart actuator installed for a stable boost
- blanking the EGR system ( where is it located on a 2006 model?)
- catch can

Is this a good start or does the chiptuning and the actuator just make it worse?

sorry for possible grammar mistakes, Belgium needs help with the ZD30 too
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  #23  
Old 16-09-2016, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooskurre View Post
hi guys,
I just purchased a 2006 GU4 with the 3.0 engine with 115k kms on the clock.
Reading about the NADS modifications make me feel a little worried about the reliability of my new ride.
What makes the exhaust temperatures so high besides the EGR system and at wich rpm does it happen?
my first to do mods i thought of are:
- ECU chip to 190hp
- get a Turbosmart actuator installed for a stable boost
- blanking the EGR system ( where is it located on a 2006 model?)
- catch can

Is this a good start or does the chiptuning and the actuator just make it worse?

sorry for possible grammar mistakes, Belgium needs help with the ZD30 too
If it's an 06 yours 'should' be a DI not a CRD, this is the CRD section. Anyway forget the turbosmart boost control I wouldn't piddle on it if it was on fire, go for either a Dawes and Needle or Tillix and needle and follow instructions you will find in the DI section. It's going cost a bit and you'll need a bit more than a chip to get to 190Hp mate. I would suggest you go into the DI section and read up on what we do, start with this where there are explanations on most things you ask, NADS. So you have a ZD30 DI, here's "NADS" steps and logic with diagrams
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  #24  
Old 08-11-2016, 04:40 PM
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Hello all,

I have a 2015 GU with 3inch exhaust, Dawes and needle valve, DP Chip. I have my Autotecnica gauge showing 12psi where my scan gauge shows 15psi, which one is accurate?

Also, my EGT gauge starts at 200 degrees although it does not move while driving. I removed it and added heat through a lighter and it moved the needle to 400 and I stopped Anyone experienced this? And how can I fix it?

Cheers!
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  #25  
Old 08-11-2016, 04:43 PM
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I've tried a SAAS gauge, Autometer gauge and an Ultragauge (like a scangauge). The Ultragauge and the Autometer usually read about +/- 1psi, but my SAAS was about +2psi under the Ultragauge.

I would believe the scangauge before the Autotecnica gauge.

Where is the EGT gauge probe installed?
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  #26  
Old 08-11-2016, 05:05 PM
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Cheers,

The probe is just behind the turbo in an existing bung. Maybe 100 - 150mm from the turbo.

I put a new probe in today and it did not rectify my problem.

Maybe I'll try a clamp on probe to see if I can get it working..
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  #27  
Old 07-05-2017, 09:55 PM
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In essence are the suggested improvements listed here needed because either (i) the engine runs too hot or (ii) because it runs too hard or (iii) because runs a smaller motor in a big body or (iv) a combination of all of the above?

I'm not a mechanic ( so the suggestions here sort of concern me) and I'm wondering if you need to be to be able to afford the suggested changes and to maintain the car.

It seems a number of the suggested changes are to lower running temperatures as this seems a reason why the early versions of this engine failed. The exhaust increase is a common one it seems to let the gases get away more quickly and lower temperatures.
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  #28  
Old 08-05-2017, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo62 View Post
In essence are the suggested improvements listed here needed because either (i) the engine runs too hot or (ii) because it runs too hard or (iii) because runs a smaller motor in a big body or (iv) a combination of all of the above?

I'm not a mechanic ( so the suggestions here sort of concern me) and I'm wondering if you need to be to be able to afford the suggested changes and to maintain the car.

It seems a number of the suggested changes are to lower running temperatures as this seems a reason why the early versions of this engine failed. The exhaust increase is a common one it seems to let the gases get away more quickly and lower temperatures.
Non of the above mentioned items are MUST do's, just recommend.
As the CRD gets older there are more and more doing high kms with none of the above mods.
If cost is an issue I would say that all you need is a good catch can and an exhaust.

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  #29  
Old 16-05-2017, 10:59 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I want to be informed and all this stuff helps. There are pro's and con's with everything and every car, sounds like many more pro's than con's.

Cheers, Stevo62
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