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Oil catch can - is provent the only way to go?

28K views 28 replies 22 participants last post by  Peter Mc 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

There are a lot of post / threads regarding the use of Provent oil catch cans.

Are they the best ones for the CRD?

The reason I ask is on ebay there are truckloads of oil catch cans - at different price points.

Many thanks
Guido
 
#2 ·
there is very few commercially made catch cans that have a filter in it and even less that have bypass valves (to stop pressurizing the sump should the filter block up).
most people make their own or modify a non-filter one.
 
#3 ·
Just run a hose down and vent to atmosPhere, if we have to pay a carbon tax it will make you feel like your getting your money's worth !!
My intake is dry as a nuns cu&+ and it cost nothing!
 
#4 ·
All trucks on the road are vented atmospherically, its only been as of recent (2010-2011) that trucks are now recirculating into the motor in their own way. Which makes it a huge MESS when servicing.

Ive never understood why its not been allowed to be done with all diesels. I have seen trucks which spit out so much oil from the blow by tube, that the owner puts a liter of oil back in it every day just to keep it running. The worst ive had through work has more smoke out of it than the exhaust spits out.

Only issue with venting it under the car, is cops will defect you.
 
#12 ·
I just made one using the instructions in the "Nissan Patrol Reference Document" cost me next to nothing as I already had most of the stuff.

The only thing I changed was the filter media, I used Stainless Steel Wool 70 cents from Woolies and it works a treat instead of the Foam. Less mess to clean up when emptying.

Cheers
 
#13 ·
X2, my home made one is a little different to the ref doc, built one initially the same, cheap so cut it in half after a while to do an inspection, all good, built an improved version which can be dismantled, has been on now for quite a while (3 ss scourer pad filtration and collection chamber), did regular 10,000k MAF clean and turbo inlet inspection recently "bloody marvelous". So there are options.
 
#14 ·
"Most important is where it's mounted, must be kept as cold as possible to work most efficient."

Is this true as about the only spot I have in my 4.2 is above the turbo and deffinitely need one? Got know where else to put it. Maybe I could insulate the bottom?
 
#15 ·
Wouldn't worry about it too much, there are not to many cool places under the bonnet of a 4by when your half way up a mountain in 2 LR at 3500rpm.

They insulate batteries so that is an option
 
#16 ·
Insulation may help, water cooled would be the ultimate but not very practical. What your trying to do is condense the oil out of the gas stream, this can only be done with lots of surface area and turbulence, the cooler the surfaces the more efficient it will work.
I am a big fan of Stainless wool in the largest diameter aluminium canister you can fit, but having said that I was lazy and just bought a Provent, but I personally don't think it's worth the money.
 
#17 ·
I think the provent catch cans are too expensive for what it is. There are plenty of guys making custom made ones on other forums. I had one made for my old VL turbo. It had -8an fittings to run speed flow fittings from and braided lines. It had a breather filter on the top, and drain plug on the bottom. Internally you put steel wool inside of it. And the best thing about it is you can get it made to your specs including size and shape. The one I had was stainless steel.
 
#18 ·
Yes the provent is expensive. I tried the cheap way first witha modified supercheap unit. Got rid of about 70 percent of the oil. As I wanted long term reliability, I went for the provent. After 30,000km took off the input pipe to the intercooler today and it is totally dry: just what I wanted to see. So for me provent is the way to go after all $200 is not big money when you compare it to anything else you do to a forby.
My thoughts anway.

Loafer
 
#20 ·
Hi,

If you have the money go with the Provent. If you think is too much then buy/DIY a cheap catchcan.

In my opinion they all work but the Provent 200 has a lot of research/quality/tests done and it will "catch" more oil than the others. The cheap ones I don't think they even made any specs or testing...

Edu
 
#21 ·
like Pauls Helms--- Modified MONZA from supacrap.. just added fillter media at the top and a plastic tube so it dumps the mist close to bottom of can.. Just emptied for the first time the other day and got 70mm of oil for just over 7500km travelled. turbo inlet squeeky clean.. $45-50bucks does the job me thinks!
 

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#22 · (Edited)
Hey GU Bundy,
is that a one way valve in your oil breather line going to the catch can?

I have done a few different cheap catch cans on rally cars and turbo diesels for quite a few years before they became easily avaliable in the Supercrap and other auto shops.

This was one about ten years ago on a Pathfinder Terrano. $5 stainless container for the kitchen with a few pipe fittings and stainless scourer. It worked quite well.




This is the current one on my Patrol. Hard to see hidden down the back. It is a bit loke GU Bundy's but the square version and stuffed with coarse stainless steel scourer. Bigger volume would be better but there is not much room in mine.

 
#25 ·
I've got a question but don't see the point in starting a new thread.
How often should the Provent filter be renewed? - mine has been in for over a year now and it's oily obviously but still works.

Also what are peoples thoughts about doing away with the Provent filter and using steel wool instead?
 
#26 ·
Mine has been in for many years and still works fine. I tgink they are designed for trucks, so the duty cycle we put them through is very low, thus they last a long time.

The question i would be asking myself before using steel wool is: what happens if some dislodges and finds it way to the air inlet, post filters?
 
#27 ·
From memory I think the filters are good for about 100000km, should be able to confirm by visiting Mann Hummel website. Why would you want to replace something that works? Cost of a new filter is $80 Aussie but at the frequency of changing it's good value to me. Dronus has a very valid point too.
 
#28 ·
Was just a thought, I didn't realise the filters had good longevity like that so that's good to hear.
 
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