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Changed Clutch Fork Rubber Boot - Clutch Issues

9K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  Kelly928 
#1 ·
When removing the old clutch fork rubber boot I accidentally pulled the fork off the 'holder spring' (spring on the release sleeve which holds fork to sleeve). I managed to realign the spring (as it had spun around:angryfir: in the recess) and pushed the fork up into position and then secured the centre pivot retaining spring. I then manually moved the fork and could see the fork moving the bearing in and out and thought all was good.

Problem is clutch pedal now only goes down 3/4 then stops firm and grinds when I try to get any gear. Checked master, slave and hydraulic lines no leaks all good and seems to be operating correctly.

I am guessing that its the position of fork on release sleeve/bearing is incorrect but I cannot see/understand how. I think I may be missing something?

Truck is now stuck in very tight driveway.

Any assistance appreciated.

Cheers
Kelly
 
#2 ·
is the fork correctly located on the ball pivot point, it will take a bit of force to pop it back on, the spring will need to be sitting correctly , this may be a bit difficult with the gearbox still in but should be able to be done.​
 
#3 ·
Yeah we had done the same thing, end up no way we could get it back on with the box still in, as the spring had moved. Ended up having to pull the box out to rectifie the issue.

You may have to get one of those extending mirrors with a light on the end and have a bit of a look in there before you go pulling stuff apart.

Good luck.
 
#4 ·
So hard to see up in there but I think I moved the sleeve position when moving the holding spring (top spring) into position. There are 2 raised sections (opposite each other) on the sleeve. The fork needs to be wedged between the holding spring and the raised sections.

This is becoming increasingly difficult.

Swinging the spring around wasnt too hard i just used a straightened coat hanger with a hooked end and pull em around. But getting the sleeve into position as well might be impossible without box out.

I will give it another go.
 
#5 ·
a mate fixed this in his car while box in still. i couldnt do it in my truck so he did mine as well. if you need to move it you can stick it in low range in gear and start it. but hang on to the key as you will have to turn it off to stop it.
 
#8 ·
oh this sounds familar! :D

I did it on mine and after trying for ages i thought id have to take the box out. But you can do it with the box in. I had a 3 inch exhaust in the way too, but with a few hrs of frustration and swearing i got it back in.

If you can remove your exhaust you will have more room.

You need to get the fork sitting on the bearing first and i think from memory twist the bearing into right position using a long flat screw driver, the metal clips on the bearing need to attach to the fork. Once thats on, put it onto the pivit and fit the spring part of the clip into the right position on the fork one at a time.

use a small torch in your mouth so you can see what your doing and screwdriver in one hand while holding the spring and fork in the other.

Its EXTREMELY frustrating, you need to hold your tongue the right way and be persistant, but its quicker than taking the box out.

Good Luck

Glen
 
#9 ·
Well 18hrs later its DONE!!!!!!!!!:bananaro:

Yes Glenry the exhaust was in the way, had small torch in mouth and the spring would move out of position every time I went to push the fork on.

Used coat hanger (to pull the spring into position) and thin steel rod (to rotate bearing into position) for most of it.

I NEVER want to go through this again.

Thanks all

Kelly
 
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