Clutch replacement info

[cokeaddict]

Hi, am almost ready to replace clutch on my 4.2 Diesel GQ. I know its a mungrel of a job, but id like to know if any of you can tell me if there are any tricks when taking box out. Things I need to know or watch out for.

Should the front seats come out with the carpet to remover the gear stick cover or not? I have 3 helpers ready to get dirty with me and 2 floor jacks plus stands for height. I have a dummy shaft to line up the new clutch. I will get the flywheel radial ground before fitting box back in. This will be done over 2 weekends..no hurry as i dont drive it much.

[sudso]

Build a roll cage in the front to support a small hoist and lower it to the ground through the trans tunnel ;) .
Nah just kidding:D.........but its not as silly as it sounds and would work.

I did mine myself (replaced g/box) using an engine crane through the passenger door and lowered it down. You hafta support the rear of the engine too. I used a big square slab of wood that rested on the tie rod and supported the sump but make sure the lifting lug at the back of the engine doesnt touch the firewall. The slab I used was just the right height.
Dont let the weight of the gearbox push down on the sump, keep it supported by the crane.

I would have used a trans jack adaptor on my trolley jack but it wouldnt go high enough to support the bottom of the gearbox. Its almost 600mm from ground level.

cheers

[albundy]

while you have the clutch out, replace the rear engine seal. I used a mates workshop to do mine, much easier on a hoist with gearbox stands. Mate and I did it in 4 hrs.

[cokeaddict]

while you have the clutch out, replace the rear engine seal. I used a mates workshop to do mine, much easier on a hoist with gearbox stands. Mate and I did it in 4 hrs.


Does the sump have to be loosened to replace the seal? or does the seal sit in a housing of its own that can be unbloted ?


Thanks for the feed back
Ange

[Yom]

It varies between the models. Post 95 apparently have a housing of their own. PRe 95 don't according to my haynes.

Personally I'd be trying to remove it with a seal pulling device.... Known otherwise as some self tapping screws into the seal and then pull the darn thing out! :p

[Tracteur Tom]

Don't do that Yom !!!! You've got to remove the carrier first, its easy, but you do have to remove the sump and flywheel, so its not a 10 minute job. also, if you cant do this in a clean environment, leave well alone, as you'll probably just make matters worse !

[sudso]

If you havent changed a gearbox or clutch before cokeaddict I'd seriously consider getting someone else who knows the procedure for these to do it.
I started off small when I was a young teenager mucking around with old holdens and stuff so I have half an idea lol but its still always a learning curve.

These boxes are biiig and heeeavy so be careful and remove everything that will hinder removal.

Actually you will be able to replace the clutch without taking the box right out. Just gotta move it back far enough and keep it supported.

Cheers, sudso

[albundy]

Flywheel should come off for machining anyway if replacing the clutch. Just pop the seal out with screwdriver, never had to take the sump off, mine is 24v 89 short GQ with rear locker.
Al

[Tracteur Tom]

I was just going by the book Albundy - just shows you what the book knows ! I'm about to do this job so I'll let you know !

Coke addict, as Sudso says, its not a job for beginners, you need to be set up for holding and manipulating the box which is easier said than done. If you were to drop it then you would have one BIG problem to solve.

Albundy - Have you had any problems with the crank wearing on the oil lip ? Need for a sleeve maybe (reading the book again !). Thanks

[cokeaddict]

Thanks for all the info guys......ok G/box is out, flywheel is away being radial ground. Rear main is dry but i will replace it tomorrow as i already got a new one from nissan.

For those who are in need of doing a clutch on a GQ here is my suggestion to u all.

Best way is to take front seats, front carpet and floor cover for gear sticks out. Remove both gear shifts (easy once u drop box down a bit).

I purchased a fold away engine crane yesterday and used that inside the car ...worked a dream..perfect, will sell it after box is back in next week. Had a proper floor jack underneath to support front of box for balance and a guide so as not to put too much weight on the input shaft.

Found that i had to turn the box about 45 degrees clockwise so the dome on the bellhousing that holds the starter motor is free from hitting car floor.

HINT:... i found that good quality rope will do the trick on crane, the balance is perfect if u leave the gearbox mounts on gearbox and run the rope around the lips of the mount of both sides (left N right) and front N back ....this allows u to tilt the box across easier and stops the rope from moving out of position incase the box slips front or back due to no support under car.

Now the box is sitting on the legs of the crane so its ready to lift again without changing position of rope...just less hassles later when she goes back in...I got enough room to do the rest working around the crane arms

Once that was in place..it was a matter of jiggling gently and fiddling with crane for correct height, keeping box in line with engine.

I didnt have to use wood to support engine...it sits 10 mill back from firewall on its own and swings free..so its ok.

I have dismantled gear sticks and will re grease fresh with proper gease. Also replacing all 4 uni joints next week as they are just starting to lump up now. All parts will be high pressure cleaned and lubricated where needed.

Remember to silicone the bell housing and the starter motor before u bolt it up, I didnt know it had to be sealed but I do now. This is a brilliant idea Mr Nissan. I can see now why the GQ is such a good reliable offroader, alot of thought went into the small things.

Just for the record..my first GQ 1988 model did 430,000 kms before clutch had to be replaced (mechanic did that one) This one has 255,000 but i burnt the crap out of it reversing a 2.5 ton boat up a driveway...my fault..should have used low range..oh well..live and learn.

Again...thanks to all who made comments here...its much apreciated.... and NO..id never do one again .. lol

[Tracteur Tom]

Cokeaddict, good write up, you obviously know a bit more about this type of work than your original post let on !! Excellent !

[cokeaddict]

YOM......1994 models (series 2 anyway) have the housing too, no need to drop sump, just take out sump bolts ( with flywheel out of course) holding the seal housing in place...great idea.

[cokeaddict]

Cokeaddict, good write up, you obviously know a bit more about this type of work than your original post let on !! Excellent !


Phil....i just think before i get stuck into things mate. When you see whats there, you can work out ways to do it easier.
Thanks again.

Ange

[sudso]

Good way of approaching it cokeaddict. Well done.
You are now part of the elite and ready to go out in the world.:mrgreen:


Found that i had to turn the box about 45 degrees clockwise so the dome on the bellhousing that holds the starter motor is free from hitting car floor.
Thats wierd, I didnt have to rotate mine at all. The factory lifting lug at the back of the head was almost touching the firewall though.