2" body lift on a GQ

[offrdn]

I was just wondering out there if anyone colud tell me

in a 2" lift what has to be lengthend, adjusted, changed or etc

or is there no effort on that side of it and just have to get the blocks and bolts :?: :?: :?: :?:

thanks
andy

PS the truck has a 2" suspention lift already if it makes any diff

[BIG GQ]

What ever breaks during the process or looks like it is gunna break once it is lifted :lol: :lol: . Diff breathers, fuel lines, wiring, etc.

[TUFFGU&GQ]

G'Day Andy, have just done one on my SWB only mod extra was to remove the lower radiator fan shroud and bend the trans tunnel a little so the gear stick moves freely without touching the floor near the console.

See the link under Patrol Registry you can just make out the body lift 50mm anymore than that and you'll need to modify more things such as gears sticks brake lines etc..

Andrew R

[BIG GQ]

50mm anymore than that and you'll need to modify more things such as gears sticks brake lines etc..

Andrew R

Anymore than 2" and the steering shaft will require additional work (lengthening and alignment etc)

[TUFFGU&GQ]

Good point Big GQ. The least amount of changes the better i say....and cheaper too.

[Area54]

Prolly the first thing to do is get under your rig with a notepad and write down all the things that may stretch when you lift the body from the chassis. Things like fuel lines, wiring looms, wheelarch rubber sheets, Clutch/brake lines, fuel filler hose, radiator shroud, gear stick boots, steering shaft to steering box shaft etc. The more time you spend planning the lift the less likely you are to making mistakes during it. It can be a fairly easy thing to do with very basic tools, I did mine in a small garage with a few bottle jacks, a trolley jack and a heap of besser blocks. Raised vehicle with jacks (under diffs), removed wheels, removed body bolts, lowered body onto besser blocks (with wood blocks under sills and grill - remember the batteries need support from the front as well) add blocks and bolts, raise diffs and chassis under body, refit wheels and check everything on your list as you go. This is a fairly brief description, but if you are reasonably mech minded you will pick it up as you go.

Disclaimer: I have made the rest of this up purely for a good story, I got all this info from a corn flakes packet...

Some tips:

The bolts in the cargo area use a captive nut in the body, a bit of heat applied to the bolt head will loosen the loctite in the thread, enabling you to remove the bolt easier, replace with metric bolts, high tensile of course.

The rest of the bolts can be UNF (cheaper and easier to source) but again must be high tensile grade 8 or higher, with nyloc nuts or similar locking type nuts used. Most of the bolts you get at most bolt shops will be black or 'licorice', degrease them and give them a coat of zinc rich paint to help prevent corrosion. Do the same with the steel crush tubes in the rubber isolation mounts on the chassis.

In QLD, the blocks must be steel or aluminium, no longer than 50mm and must match the outside daimeter of the existing rubber isolation mount.

Spray the body section under the mount with a bit of underbody deadener, it squishes out and makes a good seal between the lift block and the body.

In QLD, you must apply in writing to QLD transport to fit a 50mm body lift before you fit the lift, you will receive a letter to commence, after the fitting the vehicle must be presented for inspection at a designated inspection station. Before this inspection, make sure your rig is in top shape, no faults as this is a perfect time for them to ping your rig if they see anything else...

If your steelworking skills are good, you can lengthen the gear sticks (don't think this is legal), you can make the transfer lever fit without hacking into the trans tunnel.

Weld a bit of flat plate onto the mounts for your bumper, then redrill the holes lower so you can raise the bumper as well.

If you are really good with your steelwork skills, you can make a sub chassis for the rear so you can retain the use of the factory recovery point that bolts through the alum step. Then bolt this sub chassis to the top of the rear crossmember.

Your Hayman reese hitch can be raised also, consult a trailer manufacturer for this mod (unless you are good with steel... :wink: )

Loosen off the steering shaft to steering box rag joint bolts before you start the lift, then readjust when he lift is in.

You'll need to get a new clutch hose, the standard one will be okay if you bend the bracket down a bit, but I have seen them (clutch hose) stretch and tear on some rigs.

Fuel lines might need to be extended. Unclip the lower section of the rad shroud.

Loosen the fuel filler hose from the tank.


A few more things will come to mind...I'll add them as time goes on.

[marin]

http://www.gqpatrol.com/bodylift/index.htm

[blu125]

I have just replaced the steering column flexible link because I forgot to loosen its bolts & take the tension off the rubber, when the body lift (2") was done...............................5 years & 120,000km's ago..............

BTW, I couldn't find an alternative to genuine......$133!!!!!!!

[offrdn]

thanks to all replies will read all and take it from there

andy :headwall: