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View Full Version : Another GQ storage draw buildup, with gas tank and tall fridge.


MikeH
18-05-2008, 10:42 AM
Thanks to GQShaz for the motivation to get on with this dormant project.

I did the base plates a while ago and left it for months. Yesterday I went out and bought some more ply to make a shelf.

Base is 18mm ply, the rest is 11mm which is a bit light but as you can see the spans are narrow.

The gas tank fits nicely in between the fridge and the cargo barrier on some custom brackets. The shelf is the same height as the top of the gas tank.

I had to put the fridge on the floor because the 60l Waecos are rather tall. As it is we carry a step so the Mrs can see in. Carrying a ladder around to get at the food is getting a tad ridiculous. The fridge slide I made a while ago out of 50mm angle iron, some runners from an old Metalux filing cabinet and some bits of lightweight chain and turnbuckles. The waeco didn't fit in the old Terrano with the handles on so I made some ali plates for anchoring it down with some bits of seatbelt webbing for handles. Will take a pic when the fridge is in... The commercial slides are about 10mm narrower so if my filing cabinet runners break I don't have to rebuild the storage system.
One stuff up here, the door of the fridge hits the open door so it can't open past vertical and it keeps flopping closed on your arms as you reach in.

Because the fridge is at floor level I had 2 choices with the draws, one huge one, two really wide flat ones or two tall skinny ones. I chose the latter for 2 reasons, I can open one draw with one door open, and I can maximise the space because that draw is longer, it goes past the side of the gas tank all the way to the cargo screen. It's about 980mm long. I need to find some long runners for that one, I want it to open at least 800mm.

You might notice the base is in two sections, This is so I can take the smaller section out to make it easier for the dogs to get in and out. That section is secured with three bolts through child seat restraint threads. It doesn't really need them, it takes some force to pop it into place. I had to carve out a crater with the router for the end of the gas tank to fit into.

The larger section is secured with two child seat restraint threads. it doesn't move at all with the other section in place but I'm worried about it toppling if the fridge and the draw are opened. I'll use more filing cabinet runners for that draw, they have 600mm extension, they are much bigger than the typical fridge slide runners and they're free.

There is plenty of space for stuffing things around the base of the fridge but I don't want to obstruct it's cooling.

I'll make a fill panel to drop into the fridge cutout when the fridge is not loaded. Also one for the left hand side. You can still get at the factory jack position.
Today I'll make a couple of rails to protect the windows. there are some factory threads in just the right spot, you can see the little black dots halfway up the C pillars.

I'm not sure how I'll make the draws. To maximise space I was thinking of chopping up some sheetmetal Z purlins for the sides and using ply for the base and ends. To get the same strength with all wood will be thick and heavy. I don't like my chances of finding 300mm Z purlins for free.

Oh yeah, materials.... Half a sheet of 18mm ply, 1 sheet of 11mm ply, a box of 100 44mm self countersinking chipboard screws (fine in the end grain if you pre-drill) and some Selleys Durabond which is truly awesome gap filling polyeurathane wood glue. Dry assemble it, then take it apart and wet assemble with a tiny bead of durabond. Wear gloves.
Yes, the panel near the gas tank is on the pi$$, so was I at the time.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk148/OzMikeH/storage.jpg

GQshaz
18-05-2008, 11:12 AM
nice job mike, i thought of using 11m but didnt trust my skills and thought it would split, are you planning to carpet it or something? keep the pics coming and if you find some decent priced runners for a long length (my draws can be as long as 110cm) post it up please.

cheers shannon

PaulnLou
18-05-2008, 12:19 PM
Splitting ply ? - aqudere is your friend. I have used gallons of the stuff because I'm a fairly lame wood worker. Run it along one vertical facing edge at a time and let it soak in, rotating the box every few hours to let it really get in and repeat it until it looks like the edge wont absorb any more. It stabilises the edges really well, makes them resistant to splintering and moisture.

If they do split a bit through errant screwing, take it apart fill the damage up with aquedere, leave it for a bit and then clamp it flat ( or stack bricks on it ?) And start again.

Ply and aquedere are a terrific combination ! Once you glue and screw the stuff ( with some marine grade or exterior estapol sort of stuff on the surfaces ) it's almost indestructable.

Have fun.

MikeH
18-05-2008, 08:44 PM
I did a bit more today. too dark for pictures now.

I made a box for my hand winch and other recovery gear, about 550mm long that pushes inside the left side. I'll put a couple of webbing handles on it to make it easy to carry. When I get more wood I'll make another smaller box to go in behind it. I figured making the recovery gear a bit more portable would be a good thing. I'll still put a draw in the middle.
I was looking through my steel pile for some small tube for the bars across the windows. Now I have window protection rails WITH tiedowns! I used a pole from a hills hoist. It doesn't look as dodgy as it sounds.
Those threads in the body aren't tapped. I had some genuine nissan blunt ended self-tappers from somewhere and I used those. I figured that is what the pressed in holes were intended for.

MikeH
24-05-2008, 03:09 PM
A bit more about plywood: In exterior grade ply the glue is waterproof.
Drill all holes for all screws to the size of the screw shank. Use chipboard screws, they have a large thread area compared to the shank size.
Use polueurathane glue with exterior ply because it's waterproof too. And it fills big gaps.

I made sure the fridge fits today. You can see the seatbelt handles I made for it to save space in the old car.
the slide is rather over-engineered. I used some runners from a filing cabinet. It can support 110kg placed on the end when fully extended.
The slide is secured by the floor by eight 1/4 inch gutter bolts. the bolts screw into tee-nuts which are hammered into the ply from the underside. I'll probably use some more tee nuts for securing the draw runners. you can flush-mount them by drilling a recess with a holesaw. If you havent guessed they are my new favourite thing. I just need to find somewhere that sells them online in boxes rather than blister packs of four.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk148/OzMikeH/storage2.jpg