View Full Version : MOdding my GQ wagon
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 10:23 AM
G'day all i am relatively new to the 4wd scene i have recently purchased an automatic 1996 ti wagon it is relativley stock at the moment all i have done is put a set of 33's on 2.5 inch exhaust with extractors, and i have had abi of work donw to the gearbox, Shift kit, and remoe oil cooler, and i am in the proccess of havingsome slider and a front bull bar/ sptlight mount made.
I am looking at a 2inch spring lift along with a 2 inch body lift, Steering dampener and a snorkel.
I am just a little unsure about brands and what is well priced?
i am looking at a new 2inch iron man lift kit over ebay for 700 any thoughts?
let me know what u thinkand if u have any suggestions they r more then welcome cheers Zac
89 GQ
21-11-2008, 11:44 AM
PM suspension stuff or i believe oondy may do suspension aswell now??? These boys will tell you some good gear to chuck on. If i was going to do it again, i would go drop boxes with slotted GU bushes, lovell shocks and probably king springs again.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 02:38 PM
i got impatient lol was soughta doing it on a budget too. bought all iron mna gear 2inch lift springs and shocks and steering damper along with a snorkel paid 1050 in total.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 02:41 PM
also bought 2 inch body lift from ebay and rubber flare replacement save busting my fibreglass ones
truckster
21-11-2008, 04:01 PM
I would have gone a 3inch spring lift and no body lift.
much less stress on the thin sheet body mount.
micks troll
21-11-2008, 05:37 PM
I would have gone a 3inch spring lift and no body lift.
much less stress on the thin sheet body mount.
yes, but that's not legal up here (QLD)! 2" springs and a certified 2"body is technically all that is allowed with maximum tyre on the patrol of 33"s. If this doesnt bother you go 4"springs and no body lift it flexes good but theres a bit more to do after a 2"lift (panhards. castor correction longer brake lines etc)
I run king springs and had great results with ome shocks as well apart from flexing too much and punching the rear shock into the bump stop base:mad: Angle grinder to the rescue:)
By the way the tyres will rub with 2-3-4 inch lift on the wagons (unless bump stops have been changed or a huge offset rim) make sure you trim back the rear seat belt bolt so it doesnt chew the side of your tyre out. also aftermarket rubber flares are heaps better and easy to look after. I use Clark Rubber rubber and have abused it and it's still ok (not the prettiest but works well.
A few things to look out for when doin the body lift is raidiator shroud, brake line, Clutch line, steering column, Gear sticks (will need to be bent or floor cut out to allow movement) and the rear capture nut are reeeeal pains to deal with. Make sure to douse all bolts with wd40 or the like regularly a few weeks prior to pulling them out. Also the bullbar should be modified as well as the rear bar as they look like crap if they havent!
Good luck with it.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 05:38 PM
yeh i just didnt want to mess around with drop boxes caster correction bushes and extended brake lines
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 05:42 PM
yeh i was trying to keep it legal the last thing i want its attention from po-po
Eddy351
21-11-2008, 06:18 PM
Hey ZedAck you did put another oil cooler on correct?. Also an auto temp gauge should be on your list of things to buy if you havnt already got one.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 06:39 PM
hey mate yeh put the remote oil cooler for the gear box on there and i just need to fit my gauge the electris plug was put on the box for it when i got the work done.
do any of u's guys use iron man is it ok gear?
davess
21-11-2008, 07:09 PM
yeh i just didnt want to mess around with drop boxes caster correction bushes and extended brake lines
ZedAck, mate extended brake lines are a must, you are going to have more flex and movement, and not that it's likely but there's every chance you could damage line and presto no brakes..... extended lines are cheap less than a hundred $'s and give you peace of mind.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 08:52 PM
r these relatively easy to fit?
chrismav
21-11-2008, 09:10 PM
r these relatively easy to fit?
Yes, but if you dont know how to... best be fitted by a mechanic.
ZedAck
21-11-2008, 09:30 PM
yeh ill have a do at it couldnt imagine there would b too much to it.
can anyone give me an indication as too how the standard diff lock in the ti perform
Pitbull
22-11-2008, 10:37 AM
g day Zed
The standard Diff Lock when engaged works very well , it may not disengage instantly however when you want it off , this is due to the vacum solenoined which is fitted on the passengers side firewall , Do a search on here and there are all the answers you need on it .
I ve used Ridepro springs and shocks and steering damper and they work well for me .
And soon i'll have 4.375 ratios and 33's tyres fitted.
ZedAck
22-11-2008, 09:09 PM
hey man ok thats sweet as looking foward to testing it out. i wanted to get the lift on so it it would handle the 33's abit better before i went for a trip.
go the ti's
davess
22-11-2008, 10:09 PM
r these relatively easy to fit?
2 person job and a peice of cake no harder than changing a set of pads
just make sure you start bleeding from the brake balance control unit over the rear diff.
ZedAck
23-11-2008, 09:45 AM
ok cheers mate ill grab a brake line aswell
micks troll
23-11-2008, 07:50 PM
ZedAck, mate extended brake lines are a must, you are going to have more flex and movement, and not that it's likely but there's every chance you could damage line and presto no brakes..... extended lines are cheap less than a hundred $'s and give you peace of mind.
Very true! You can use the rear brake line on the front and just get a longer rear line (2" longer than original rear otherwise if looking down the track at more lift go 4"longer:cool: ). I've done this on a 4"spring 30mmspacer and 30mm bodylifted patrol and have had no troubles. Cheaper than buying 2 lines also!
davess
23-11-2008, 10:28 PM
good tip micks troll, didn't know that.
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