Td42 missing a bit at higher RPMs

[y60injp]

I think this may be related to my earlier question- engine running cold- but I want to o thru the engine system and get everything in top notch shape anyhow. In terms of tuning her up what is the proceedure? Just turned 130,000km's

Pete (still waiting on a manual from Santa)

[OldMav]

I think this may be related to my earlier question- engine running cold- but I want to o thru the engine system and get everything in top notch shape anyhow. In terms of tuning her up what is the proceedure? Just turned 130,000km's

Pete (still waiting on a manual from Santa)

There are a lot of posts on this forum about diesel tune, and reasently.
But to answer your question unless you have the equipment and the know how on the dark secerts of diesel tune, It is best to find yourself a workshop you trust and can deliver the results you expect. At 130k your motor is only just run in.

[y60injp]

It is best to find yourself a workshop you trust and can deliver the results you expect. At 130k your motor is only just run in

Well it is extremely unlikely that I can find a workshop that I can trust here in Japan. Cars are just barely maintained then they get shipped out of the country. In terms of dyno tuning I'm just gonna go the wideband 02 meter route on my own to get the pump/air mixture dialed in. Just waiting on the manual I ordered..........

I have a mechanically injected petrol car so some experience with diesel style pumps and timing and tuning. Based on that experience I was thinking of pulling the injectors and taking them to a diesel shop that can check the breaking point and spray pattern. I suppose a compression check wouldn't hurt. First thing is to get a new thermostat in there...just ordered it today.

[OldMav]

Well it is extremely unlikely that I can find a workshop that I can trust here in Japan.

y60injp
Well my friend had not realised you were in Japan. But if you need help that is specific i can help you with a few tools. It also depends on how far you want to go with tune and your undrstanding of these systems.You should PM me for this type or info as a open forum isn't really the place for this type of info as it does get detailed. You can still put question on the forum for a second opinion.

[Canuck]

If you are going to look at your injectors, you might want to check out your labour prices to have your injectors checked. I got new ones (not rebuilt) shipped to me from Hiflo (http://www.hiflo.com.au/) in Australia for half of what it would of cost me to have my spray pattern checked and have them rebuilt here. They just arived in the mail today and I will probably fit them within the week. I knew I had an injector issue, as I have a bit of run-on after shut down which is typical of injector dribble. However, before you put in new injectors, make sure that your fuel system is well cleaned and has a new fuel filter. Biodiesel works wonders on cleaning the fuel system. I ran about 8 tanks of B40. It cleans but does not dry out your IP seals like some fuel system cleaners. Too much Biodiesel can also be a problem as it can cause the seals to swell too much or become too soft. Biodiesel will clog up your fuel filter pretty quick. I went through 2 filters that were crudded up from its cleaning action. I have also got an another fuel filter which I will fit before the Nissan filter when I fit my new injectors.

[y60injp]

If you don't mind- what did the set of injectors go for?

Thanks- Pete

[Canuck]

The set of 6 injectors with new washers were $300 US and a Delphi 296 filter and assembly (to be my prefilter) was $30 US. I can buy these filters at $12 here as apposed to over $32 for a Nissan filter. Shipping was $25 US. I dealt with Scott and found him to be very helpful and prompt via e-mail. I only called to pay with my credit card. Cheers, John

[y60injp]

For a weeks or so I blocked off part of the radiator with a sheet of corragated plastic and it helped. Then yesterday I dropped in the new thermostat and it runs much better- and I am much warmer. Funny thing is I I didn't even clean the gasket surfaces and install the new gasket. I just dryed the surfaces off really well and seated it exactly back in place, socked it down and it sealed up fine- so far. I have the new one in the truck if I need it but I wasn't prepared time or tool wise (baby sleeping in front seat.) Anyhow now it runs right up above 60 kph in 3rd without a stutter. I'm keeping teh old one in case I ever have an over-heating problem. It didn't close all the way. Next on the list is fuel filter. Then after i get my manuals I'm sure I'll have more tuning ????'s

Thanks Fella's-

Pete

[Canuck]

Pete, I am sure that when you put in a new filter, you will notice the difference right away. However, if you are able to get ahold of a real good diesel fuel system cleaner - like Stanadyne's Lubricity Formula -run a few tanks of it before you change your fuel filter: http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_dfa.asp. Put in 1/2 bottle per tank. It will clear out all all the gunk built up over the years. Then, when you change your filter, make sure you also clean out the little filter found under the banjo fitting on the top of your pump. There has been a lot of talk about the difference it can make on changing or cleaning this filter. Next, if Japan has the ultra low sulphur diesel, make sure you put some lubricity formula in with evry tank. I got lazy and will soon be paying the price of new seals. Cheers, John

[Dust Magnets]

So how does the rego thing work (in Japan) that has most of you guys throwing your rigs away before they're even properly used? Are there many GQ's left on the roads over there?

[ITS A FORD NOT A NISSAN]

they are rare as hens teeth as they all are imports 2nd hand

[oondy]

In reply to the title of this thread, have you changed your fuel filter recently?

when mine starts to miss and cough at higher revs when i sink my boot in, its time to change the fuel filter. Instantly the problem goes away.

cheers

OONDY