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  #1  
Old 15-02-2011, 05:19 PM
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Default ABR Sidewinder Duel Battery + Monitor

Hey guys,

has any one got one of these kits installed?
what do you think of them? any advice?


im looking at getting the kit with the Dbi-140R series unit and the ABR Sidewinder InCab Monitor.
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Old 15-02-2011, 09:35 PM
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Looking at that same setup myself, am very interested to hear if anyone has it. I am looking at buying the dual battery kit on ebay. They said they would swap the 120 Isolator for the 140 on request
DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM FOR CARAVAN OR TRAILER (eBay item 310295299612 end time 21-Feb-11 21:23:32 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
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Old 18-02-2011, 01:33 PM
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Hi Guys,
I have this exact ABR system (dbi140r & monitor), it was easy to install and has been running perfectly for a month now. Only done a weekend trip so far but am heading off on a lap next week, I went for the monitor because of the link function, if I manage to flatten my cranker.....again.
This set up was recommended to me and I would recommend it to anyone.

This is the only picture I took during install, mounted on the drivers side of the engine bay.

DSC05161 [1600x1200].jpg



Mike
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Last edited by smiffy3011; 18-02-2011 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Doh
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Old 18-02-2011, 02:32 PM
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thanks smiffy,


i get paid next wednesday, so i think im going to go ahead and buy it.

dunno wether to buy the kit from them, or just buy the ABR Dbi140r module and the ABR monitor,
and sorce the cable and what not myself, as i wanna put it in the back of the shorty.



1 thing i did notice, they dont include a 140amp fuse between the start batt and Dbi140r module.


smiffy, have you got a fuse where ive stated? did it come with one?


cheers mate.
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Old 18-02-2011, 03:03 PM
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I didn't install a fuse as the unit has inbuilt spike and surge protection. Wiring diagram doesn't show one and its not supplied. Had a look at a few mates set ups and none of them are running fuses, never had any issues so I gave it a miss. I got all the cable, lugs, terminals and split tube for about $80 from local auto-lx place.
Hope that helps..
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Old 18-02-2011, 05:59 PM
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Where you don't have fuses, make sure you protect the cable, in split tubing, but also making sure you don't have it up against sharp points or places that it will eventually rub through.
I would also add some insulators for the terminal posts - something like a spark plug boot from a mower.
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Old 18-02-2011, 09:11 PM
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I have the 140 model, got the whole kit and it was a piece of cake to install. I wanted to put a fuse in but when I did some homework it became clear that virtually no-one puts fuses in (and just try to get a 100amp fuse from an auto shop), so I did as GeeCee suggests and used split tubing and lots of cable ties to protect the wiring from damage. Spark plug boots on the terminals is an excellent idea, thanks mate!
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Old 19-02-2011, 07:12 AM
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x2 for the spark plug boots. added to my shopping list.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:29 PM
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OSH how is this kit going? any dramas?

im too looking at this for its link function. any feedback would be great thanks mate
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:46 PM
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i have had mine 18 months and it works great
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:03 PM
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Yep I have these. Working fine for two years. I choose them because of the 12.4v cutout vs 12.7v for others. The fridge will draw both batteries down to 12.4v or 50% capacity and then cutout the starter battery. Spreading the load is better cause if you keep drawing the auxiliary below 12.4v you will greatly decrease its lifespan.


Quote:
Originally Posted by craggitt View Post
Looking at that same setup myself, am very interested to hear if anyone has it. I am looking at buying the dual battery kit on ebay. They said they would swap the 120 Isolator for the 140 on request
DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM FOR CARAVAN OR TRAILER (eBay item 310295299612 end time 21-Feb-11 21:23:32 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:07 PM
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Mine and the in laws both crapped out after a few months, I now run a red arc and it has the same function
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnH View Post
Yep I have these. Working fine for two years. I choose them because of the 12.4v cutout vs 12.7v for others. The fridge will draw both batteries down to 12.4v or 50% capacity and then cutout the starter battery. Spreading the load is better cause if you keep drawing the auxiliary below 12.4v you will greatly decrease its lifespan.
even if its a glass mat? my understanding is that they are designed to be drained?
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:52 PM
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Chuckles I don't know about AGM batterys, I should have written lead acid only...



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even if its a glass mat? my understanding is that they are designed to be drained?
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:42 AM
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Hi John and sorry mate but with a Cut-out voltage of 12.4v, you have only just taken the battery off fully charged, as this is a battery’s voltage at 80% SoC not 50% Soc.

A battery with a small load on it, like a compressor fridge, will have a voltage of 12.06v when at 50% SoC.

And AGMs are lead acid batteries.

Whether they are flooded ( wet ) cell batteries, gel or AGMs, they are all lead acid batteries.

The only major difference between battery types is that they are either CRANKING type batteries or they are DEEP CYCLE type batteries.

If they are cranking type batteries then 12.06v or 50% SoC is as low as you should safely discharge these batteries.

If the battery is a deep cycle battery then, in RV use, you can cycle most modern deep cycle batteries down to 11.58v or 20% SoC

Here is a table to help with using voltage to determine State of Charge of any lead acid battery.

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