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  #21  
Old 20-03-2017, 05:49 AM
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Headlight stalk

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  #22  
Old 20-03-2017, 10:04 AM
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Does any brake light wiring go in to the headlight stalk?
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  #23  
Old 20-03-2017, 08:34 PM
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The very fact that it can't be replicated straight afterwards is what led me to this conclusion, grasshopper.

I know it sounds like a wild theory but that's the dark horse I'm backing

We shall see tomorrow
Right
I'm going for where the trailer plug is spliced in.
But a dodgy bulb fitting was tempting.
As for a bulb filament. FFFT

Yes master I do see what you are saying, but as I said, why couldn't it be replicated once the brake is pressed again straight after the fact? Does this little filament swinging in the breeze attach itself, and then get burnt off from the tail once the brake is released the first time? Or does it just coincidentally fall off?

I like the thinking though.

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  #24  
Old 20-03-2017, 09:34 PM
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Gimme until tomorrow morning fellas.
I had a crapper of a day today.
Cheers
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  #25  
Old 20-03-2017, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Leethal View Post
Does any brake light wiring go in to the headlight stalk?
Not that i can see, even with all the possible mucking around by the previous fella.
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  #26  
Old 20-03-2017, 10:13 PM
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Lol

No there's none there, no need for brake lights to be wired into light stalk/switch.
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  #27  
Old 20-03-2017, 10:41 PM
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Gimme until tomorrow morning fellas.
I had a crapper of a day today.
Cheers
Hope that doesn't mean you got pulled over by the cops for having disco lights going on in one of your brake bulbs.

Recoup and hope you have a better day tomorrow.

Franky.
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  #28  
Old 20-03-2017, 11:23 PM
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Hope that doesn't mean you got pulled over by the cops for having disco lights going on in one of your brake bulbs.

Recoup and hope you have a better day tomorrow.

Franky.
Nah, the damn troll start spitting and hissing on both LPG and petrol.
Back firing like hell, indicating lean mixture, but couldn't find any leaking vacuum hoses or breather hoses, etc.
Then found out later the carby main body was bit loose from the throttle body, indicating the three bolts holding them together have come bit loose.
I pulled it out and tightened the bolts and also applied bit of white lithium grease to the bottom gasket.
Spitting and hissing stopped. I reckon the vacuum leak from the loose throttle body and possible small leak from the gasket was the culprit.
PITA for me and for a moment I wanted to torch the bastard.
I reckon I need to pull the carby apart and replace all the gaskets with new ones.
I'm thinking a new rebuild kit, even though I'm pretty good at cutting all the gaskets myself.

Many small things have been going wrong with the old troll lately on a frequent basis.
The troll has been testing my patience lately.
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  #29  
Old 20-03-2017, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
Nah, the damn troll start spitting and hissing on both LPG and petrol.
Back firing like hell, indicating lean mixture, but couldn't find any leaking vacuum hoses or breather hoses, etc.
Then found out later the carby main body was bit loose from the throttle body, indicating the three bolts holding them together have come bit loose.
I pulled it out and tightened the bolts and also applied bit of white lithium grease to the bottom gasket.
Spitting and hissing stopped. I reckon the vacuum leak from the loose throttle body and possible small leak from the gasket was the culprit.
PITA for me and for a moment I wanted to torch the bastard.
I reckon I need to pull the carby apart and replace all the gaskets with new ones.
I'm thinking a new rebuild kit, even though I'm pretty good at cutting all the gaskets myself.

Many small things have been going wrong with the old troll lately on a frequent basis.
The troll has been testing my patience lately.
Why pull the carby apart. Sounds like you found the issue (this one anyway).
Didn't you rebuild that carby not that long ago?

Franky.
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  #30  
Old 21-03-2017, 12:31 AM
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Why pull the carby apart. Sounds like you found the issue (this one anyway).
Didn't you rebuild that carby not that long ago?

Franky.
I kinda rebuild it all the time.
Last proper rebuild kit that was put on this particular carby was back in 2013, so basically four years ago. In between, I've been pulling it apart for something like million times.
In reality, it's in real need of a professional type rebuild, which ain't worth the money, 'cos I can buy a new one for the pro rebuild price, and probably even pro rebuild won't last that long considering the age of the carby(on LPG).
I guess I've been patching it up, everytime it develop hiccups.
Not sure, how the three bolts holding the main body to throttle body have come lose a bit.
Troll is crying for an EFI conversion.
I just like having carbies for some weird reason.
There's a spare carby with similar illness.
And then there's another carby from a TB42 that I haven't started rebuilding yet.

I reckon I need to pull this carby apart and replace all the gaskets, 'cos I can't get the AFR right by adjusting the mixture screw. And that's on idling. Then I obviously need to play with jets to get the half and WOT AFR right, 'cos that's also have tendency to run bit too rich for a reason I dunno yet. I'm not sure whether to play with jets, bleed valves or power valve to get the mixture right. I like the idea of DIY, 'cos that would put me in a good place to rebuild carbies on par with professional carby rebuilders(only this particular Nikki carby though. )
I just need to experiment with jets, etc patiently.
No replacement jets, so I need to fiddle with existing jets from spare carbies I have by filling and drilling the jets.
I just need a bit of spare time to perform the experiments.
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  #31  
Old 21-03-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Leethal View Post
I agree, trailer plug or tail lights was my first thought too. It's the only place the brake and park lights wiring are in such close proximity.
Today, I"ve been driving in the pouring rain storm and now I have more news.

The lean running/missfiring issue of the engine is back, regardless of me thinking yesterday it was from loose carby throttle body & "fixing" it.

Another thing related directly to the topic of this thread is that now I can reproduce the "dashlight turning on when brake is pressed" issue at any time(Ignition on/off, engine running/not running, etc). So, I'm guessing water has something to do with that?!
I disconnected main wire socket that carries power to the tail lights(It's just under righthand side rear wheel on the chassis) and that stops the weird behaviour of dashlight coming on from pressing brake. So, as you guys suggested tail lights have something to do with this. I'm looking at it now, but can't find any water ingress or rust/short circuit etc, but I need to examine them more.
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  #32  
Old 21-03-2017, 05:54 PM
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Bugger... There goes my dark horse lol
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  #33  
Old 21-03-2017, 07:24 PM
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Bugger... There goes my dark horse lol
Nope, you were spot on mate.

It was the stupid brake light globe.
The two filaments of the globe were internally fused on one end(right hand side brake light globe), hence the reason for bizarre behaviour of the dash lights. The rain/water got nothing to do with it, other than possible moisture/humidity causing it to fuse permanently(or semi permanently).
I put it back and won't bother 'cos that shouldn't cause any immediate issues, should it?!

Now, the spitting and hissing of the engine is back, I gotta find out where the heck that goblin came from.

I really do wanna torch the bastard, but I can't.
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  #34  
Old 21-03-2017, 07:27 PM
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Behold @Franky73 !!!!

Lol

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  #35  
Old 21-03-2017, 07:28 PM
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Dom I would leave the globe out altogether until you get a new one tomorrow.
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  #36  
Old 21-03-2017, 08:10 PM
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Hey Guys,

The above happens occasionally and I'm wondering what on earth's going on with the electric's of my troll(RB30 stock setup)!!!

I would stop the car by pressing on brakes. The engine's still running. My foot is still on brake.
I pull the hand brake lever. Then I turn off the head lights, parking lights, dash lights etc by turning the switch anti-clockwise. Everything turn off, except the dash lights. I take the foot off the brake pedal, dash lights go off.
I press the brake pedal again, dash light don't seem to be coming back on. It doesn't seem to be making any difference whether the engine's still running or not.
Somehow, the brake pedal seem to have effect on dash lights, effectively over riding the parking lights turn switch(which obviously turn on the dash lights as well).
What on earth is going on?
Any ideas, explanations, thoughts?!
It doesn't seem to be happening all the time though. I tried it reproducing it again, and it didn't happen.
But, it's still doing it regularly.
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Originally Posted by Leethal View Post
Behold @Franky73 !!!!

Lol

HaHaHa
Tin A#rse Lee comes to town.
This theory still hasn't been proven properly yet.
Can you please enlighten me on how this issue was intermittent at the beginning if the filaments were fused.

Anyway just shows you, lateral thinkers are important.

Franky.
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  #37  
Old 21-03-2017, 08:16 PM
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Filaments wouldn't have been fused to start with, would have just touched and made a connection, but when it lost power (and therefore heat) when turned off it has disconnected again. When it got power it wouldn't immediately fuse until vibration moved it around and it made contact, and therefore heat, again.


I'll hang my hat on this, don't ask me electrical stuff no more hahahaha!
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  #38  
Old 21-03-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Franky73 View Post
HaHaHa
Tin A#rse Lee comes to town.
This theory still hasn't been proven properly yet.
Can you please enlighten me on how this issue was intermittent at the beginning if the filaments were fused.

Anyway just shows you, lateral thinkers are important.

Franky.
I think you're thinking "collaterally", rather than laterally, Franky.

I reckon it was fusing and breaking, and eventually today ended up fusing kinda permanently, probably aided by the storm(water, moisture might have cooled the globe or the inert gas inside the globe?).

Either way, I reckon Lee explained it below better.(quoting from his previous post)

"To go a step further, have a good look at the filaments in the brake/park globes and I wouldn't be surprised if there was a broken filament on the brake side.

Have you ever had a dickie headlight, you whack it with your hand like Fonzie and it comes on and stays on until you turn lights off, but you have to do same thing next time until it conks out and stays konked out? Well when that happens, the filament has broken off at one end. You whack it, the filament vibrates around, and hits the spot where it broke from, and temporarily 'welds' itself on there while it has the heat from the current flow to hold it. When you turn the lights off it disconnects again."


Either way, it would've been just a matter of time before it get fused permanently.

Check the photos. You can see some kinda corrosion sort of extending on the smaller filament(if you enlarge the photo).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fused filament-1.jpg (34.7 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg Fused filament-2.jpg (39.5 KB, 17 views)
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  #39  
Old 21-03-2017, 09:24 PM
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Master Leethal nails it again. Good call mate.
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  #40  
Old 21-03-2017, 09:30 PM
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Don't ever try and understand electricity and the power (pardon the pun) of coincidences.
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