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Old 10-11-2013, 11:03 AM
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Default Polishing/cleaning up bush stripes

Hey guys just wondering how/what product do you guys use for cleaning/fixing bush scratches, over the past few weeks mine has accumulated quite few stripes and im not going bush for a while so in the mean time want it looking nice.
Ive seen people posting about preventive products but whats a good one for cleaning up?
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:44 AM
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Kitten cut and polish in the red tin. You could also get cutting compound but have to be very gentle with the pressure you put on using it. After using cutting compound then use a general wax polish without a cutting formula in it. Get it from supercrap. While your there buy one of their little hand held buff units. They work great and take out the hard yakka. You wouldn't want to see my Jeep then as it has a hell of a lot of "customised pin striping". Each has it's own story. Souvenirs I guess......

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Old 10-11-2013, 11:57 AM
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G3 cut compound and maguires wax in a tin.

You need a rotary buff and plenty of skill or you can **** your paintwork pretty easy.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dx.plus.ltd View Post



G3 cut compound and maguires wax in a tin.

You need a rotary buff and plenty of skill or you can **** your paintwork pretty easy.
Very gentle on that buff or light hand rubbing. Patience......

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Old 10-11-2013, 01:39 PM
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Depends on the grit in the compound, hand work will take alot of muscle, time and patience.

Variable speed buffs are so much better. If unsure set on slowest speed and work from there not stay in one spot for too long. Work an area then place hand on the area and see how hot the paint is, you want it to be just able to hold your hand flat on the pannel.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:33 PM
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I have used this stuff
SCRATCH X 2.0 | Meguiar's
Then mothers Wax attack. Got rid of bush pin striping provided the scratch isn't deep.

Hope this helps.

Marty
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Old 13-12-2013, 01:09 AM
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If it's like the image above aka more rubbing than actual scratching it should buff right out.
I gave up trying to fix scrub/bush scratches. They don't really show up on white anyway.
I use touch up paint when it gets to the undercoat/metal to stop rust.

A friend of mine got his hands on some sort of submarine paint, you couldn't scratch it with a key
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Old 13-12-2013, 04:14 AM
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My last 4by had heaps of bush pin strips. Before I sold it I used meguiar's clay bar then polished it then gave it a wax it looked better then the day I pick it new. The only problem it's a all day job.
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Old 23-12-2013, 10:47 PM
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x2 for the clay block.

Never tried it on my patrol, but my Rex goes to work every day and due to being a couple of hundred metres downwind of our spray booths it gets 'fallout' ie half dried paint particles in the air all over it, surface feels like sandpaper after a couple of months.

I use the block, then meguires wet look polish, then meguires carnauba wax, comes up frikken awesome.

Haven't tried the patrol, had it ten years and maybe the bush stripes are a lost cause, but if I ever sell it.........
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:03 PM
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Bit of a dig. Achieved quite a few stripes today, Platinum Metal Flake paint. Would it be best to buff or clay bar. Never done this clay bar trick. Most are down the sides but some are on the bonnet and some on the 'dummy' taillights. You can zoom in on the picture.
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Old 09-04-2017, 08:14 PM
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I just use TurtleWax scratch and swirl remover on my Gold metallic, has done a bloody good job many times, it just couldn't remove the barbed wire swirls on my black flares from the fence I slid into on a drop off.......
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:29 AM
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Pin striping is, for the most part, just wood scuff (unless you are a Ross and tangle with barbed wire).

Never used cut and polish, fast way to destroy the clear coat, and if you are heavy handed the paint as well.

Besides, if you go wheeling often and keep using cut and polish you will hit the primer coat in 3-4 polishes if you use anything other than light elbow grease (been there, done that and hated the T-shirt).

A vehicle has 4 layers, clear coat, colour coat, primer coat and steel. If the scratch is only as deep as the clear coat or colour, it will be much easier to remove.

If you can see a different colour or steel, the scratch is deep and may not be able to be repaired at all.

Easy way to know if it is just a clear coat scratch is to wet it, if it looks like the scratch has almost disappeared completely then it will be only clear coat deep.

I just use a good quality scratch and swirl remover (for me that is Meguiar’s Scratch X 2.0., but another good one is Turtle Wax Scratch and Swirl Remover), followed by a quality polish with a wool pad on a high speed polisher (keep the pad clean at all times).

Always comes up great and you have to look really, really hard to see any marks at all.

One thing that is a must for a high speed polisher, water ...

If you are using a normal polish (carnauba wax type) keep dousing it with water as you polish or the high speed polisher will burn the clear coat and paint.

I use a liquid polish for this reason.

But the best way to keep pin-stripping at bay, wash and polish your car regularly. This builds up a good polish coat on top of the clear coat and makes getting rid of pin-stripping so much easier.

Dummy lights are plastic, you will not get that out without wet and dry sandpaper, 2500 grit minimum, followed by cut and polish #2, then polish. However, remove lights from car first, as you will invariably overshoot and hit the paint as well. And that is the end of your clear coat and paint (got that T-shirt as well...).

Edit: Always wash you car well before trying to buff out scratches, any dirt will just give you lots of swirling. And NEVER use truck wash as it is mildly acidic and wrecks clear coats.
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:30 AM
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Thanks for that info, off to supercheap to get some scratch an sniff.
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:10 AM
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[QUOTE=Laurie 42td;5919562]I just use a septone pro finish on all my cars. I get it for nothing off my dad,
He buys it buy the box for his truck.
Even on my last metallic black Hilux it covered all the blackberry scratches up (from a track probably just wide enough for a motorbike). I'm not a fan of buffers on paint. I've always just used three cloth nappies. Damp one then dry one then just a final buff with a fresh one. Takes me a couple of hours. Use to get two washes before the scratches become visible again. I do my patrol every 2nd or 3rd wash. The kiddys love helping to
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurie 42td View Post
I just use a septone pro finish on all my cars. I get it for nothing off my dad,
He buys it buy the box for his truck.
Even on my last metallic black Hilux it covered all the blackberry scratches up (from a track probably just wide enough for a motorbike). I'm not a fan of buffers on paint. I've always just used three cloth nappies. Damp one then dry one then just a final buff with a fresh one. Takes me a couple of hours. Use to get two washes before the scratches become visible again. I do my patrol every 2nd or 3rd wash. The kiddys love helping to
I agree on the buffing, have not buffed my old Troll once in the 17 years I've owned it and it can look like new after a good wash, and a wax.
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:54 AM
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I agree that a high speed polisher in the hands of someone who does not know what they are doing can end in misery.

But it is by far the best way to get out all pin-stripping.

How to use a circular polisher, rotary polisher guide, rotary buffer how to

But each to their own.
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Old 10-04-2017, 11:17 AM
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I thought about a polisher but, after doing some research I decided against it as the likelyhood of damage was high. Going to wait for some clouds and use the turtle scratch and sniff with the 'Dimmies' microfibre cloths I purchased.
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:54 AM
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I bought a Rockwell polisher and if used carefully works well
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:22 AM
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I have found that around 800rpm with firm pressure is best on pinstripping. Just never let the polish dry (I keep a spray bottle of water handy).

Finish off with 1300rpm and very light pressure.

Always comes up sparkling.

If anyone is thinking of a high speed I would suggest watching some youtube clips first.

I learnt very quickly that you can do some damage if you are not careful. Luckily for me it was on an old bomb back when I was about 17. A $50 beat to death EH Holden wagon, so no big deal, and still sold it for $500 after fixing it up lol.

It was also on that vehicle I found out that it takes 15 spray paint cans to cover it.

Probably started peeling off a few months after I sold it.

But it's a learning process and came in handy as years later I started buying beat up exotics when I was living in the UK, and flipping them for a profit.

Amazing how a bit of cosmetic surgery increases the value of sports car that is still a chit box underneath to the general public. Went through a lot of bog ...

And no, I was not trying to hoodwink anyone, these things were very cheap in the UK and so I only did them up enough to pass an MOT and people knew what they were buying.
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Old 19-04-2017, 07:38 PM
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I found Mcguire's wet look to work great on lighter stuff and the bonus is that its also a sealant.

I have recently been put onto these guys. https://www.finalinspection.com.au/
Australian made and a lot less bull$%!t marketing (seen how many waxes Mcguires have now?). They have plenty of videos on their youtube channel explaining step by step. Some products are pricey but others are cheaper than Mcguires.
I'm keen to try their Full metal jacket paint protection. A friend uses it on his XY as well as his 4wd and says it really does last a long time.
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