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  #1  
Old 11-12-2016, 05:44 PM
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Hey all, recently moved from Sydney to Dubbo and the missus wants to start doing some exploring of the country. We currently have a Commodore but for health reasons i cant drop low enough to get into it for much longer. Happily we are looking at a GU around MY 04 there are some good options around for not bad money. Long story short my two favorites at the moment is a 4.8 petrol and a 3l I know some of the 3l had some issues but it seems that was resolved for the 04's what is the better option out of the two.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:01 PM
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A 4.8 that isn't on gas and has never been on gas is the better option.

If you can find a 3 litre DI that has had a new nissan crate engine and new pump and injectors that would also be good.

Otherwise the 4.8 wins in all departments - bigger brakes, plenty of power, 5 speed auto, no need for any modifications to try and prevent grenading.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:08 PM
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What's your budget?
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ACMPatrol View Post
A 4.8 that isn't on gas and has never been on gas is the better option.

If you can find a 3 litre DI that has had a new nissan crate engine and new pump and injectors that would also be good.

Otherwise the 4.8 wins in all departments - bigger brakes, plenty of power, 5 speed auto, no need for any modifications to try and prevent grenading.
They dont win on all departments. For some people fuel economy is important. My understanding is that most 4.8s use about 20lph whereas the 3.0 uses about 12lph. That's fairly significant. Also, you dont have to do anything to prevent 3.0s grenading unless you have one from 2001-2003. People I know personally (not stories I heard from someone at the pub) with 3.0s with high klms on them all have them stock. Dont get me wrong, I like 4.8s, and at times wish I'd gotten one, but I wouldn't say they're better in all departments.
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:05 PM
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They dont win on all departments. For some people fuel economy is important. My understanding is that most 4.8s use about 20lph whereas the 3.0 uses about 12lph. That's fairly significant. Also, you dont have to do anything to prevent 3.0s grenading unless you have one from 2001-2003. People I know personally (not stories I heard from someone at the pub) with 3.0s with high klms on them all have them stock. Dont get me wrong, I like 4.8s, and at times wish I'd gotten one, but I wouldn't say they're better in all departments.
You can buy a lot of fuel for the 4.8 when you consider that you dont need expensive injector and pump servicing.

It's also untrue that post 2003 are safe from grenading. They are most certainly not immune.

I stand by my recommendation
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:41 PM
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You can buy a lot of fuel for the 4.8 when you consider that you dont need expensive injector and pump servicing.

It's also untrue that post 2003 are safe from grenading. They are most certainly not immune.

I stand by my recommendation
Any mechanic I speak to says the 3.0 (particularly the crd) are as reliable as any other crd out there. These days I hear of more problems with the d4d, 3.2lt ranger engine, 4.5 200 series engine etc. My mates with over 300,000klms on their 3.0s have had no dramas outside of just regular servicing. Some people, for whatever reason, prefer diesels for touring also. Even at a difference of 6lph extra fuel starts to add up. My 3.0 will sit at 100klm/h all day long using about 10lph, and thats with steel bar, roof basket, winch, lift etc. On a long trip thats a big fuel saving. Each to their own though.
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:44 PM
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Any mechanic I speak to says the 3.0 (particularly the crd) are as reliable as any other crd out there. These days I hear of more problems with the d4d, 3.2lt ranger engine, 4.5 200 series engine etc. My mates with over 300,000klms on their 3.0s have had no dramas outside of just regular servicing. Some people, for whatever reason, prefer diesels for touring also. Even at a difference of 6lph extra fuel starts to add up. My 3.0 will sit at 100klm/h all day long using about 10lph, and thats with steel bar, roof basket, winch, lift etc. On a long trip thats a big fuel saving. Each to their own though.
Agree.
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:00 PM
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The OP is looking at 04 models, so bringing CRD into the discussion is an aside that is irrelevant. How the CRD rates alongside other common rail engines is not relevant.

Gu2 you can testify that DI engines blow up, because yours did. Now you have spent countless hours and dollars to try and stop it happening again. I'd bet the OP has no desire to go down that path.

Buying a used DI from 04 is like dancing across a minefield. Vastly different from owning one that blows up and knowing exactly what has gone into the rebuild.

I don't have 100% confidence in my CRD which I bought new. It has had it's share of overheating so who knows if it is a time bomb or not.
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Old 11-12-2016, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACMPatrol View Post
The OP is looking at 04 models, so bringing CRD into the discussion is an aside that is irrelevant. How the CRD rates alongside other common rail engines is not relevant.

Gu2 you can testify that DI engines blow up, because yours did. Now you have spent countless hours and dollars to try and stop it happening again. I'd bet the OP has no desire to go down that path.

Buying a used DI from 04 is like dancing across a minefield. Vastly different from owning one that blows up and knowing exactly what has gone into the rebuild.

I don't have 100% confidence in my CRD which I bought new. It has had it's share of overheating so who knows if it is a time bomb or not.
Your completely twisting what I've done to mine to say all ZD30DI's blow up and we know that is totally false, mine is a 2000 model and they did blow up under certain circumstances, mine did but that was 10 years ago. Your also not taking into account that much of what I have done is because I love a project, if your going to quote my work and history get it right, I have often said I would go out and buy a clean later model DI no worries if I needed one, this is a part of my writeup on NADS, but in the meantime the simple NADS system has kept mine going..

I don't subscribe to the sky is falling, the sky is falling theories.........
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACMPatrol View Post
The OP is looking at 04 models, so bringing CRD into the discussion is an aside that is irrelevant. How the CRD rates alongside other common rail engines is not relevant.

Gu2 you can testify that DI engines blow up, because yours did. Now you have spent countless hours and dollars to try and stop it happening again. I'd bet the OP has no desire to go down that path.

Buying a used DI from 04 is like dancing across a minefield. Vastly different from owning one that blows up and knowing exactly what has gone into the rebuild.

I don't have 100% confidence in my CRD which I bought new. It has had it's share of overheating so who knows if it is a time bomb or not.
What were you doing in your car when you experienced overheating? Might be worth getting it looked at. My 3.0 overheated once in some really hard sand driving, but so did literally every other 4wd on the beach that afternoon, it was just crazy.
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Old 12-12-2016, 02:02 PM
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What were you doing in your car when you experienced overheating? Might be worth getting it looked at. My 3.0 overheated once in some really hard sand driving, but so did literally every other 4wd on the beach that afternoon, it was just crazy.
Mine overheated under severe load, like all Patrol CRDs do. Low range steep inclines or towing my 1500kg van.

Now that I've had the ECU reflashed, it runs more boost, makes more power, and no longer overheats. But I'm not convinced the 2 or 3 severe ovrheating episodes (read ECU cutting fuel) haven't done lasting damage. Time will tell. If the thing sh@ts itself the vehicle will get an LS transplant.

The ECU map it's running now should be mandatory ex factory........ It's that much better.
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2016, 09:09 PM
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Mine overheated under severe load, like all Patrol CRDs do. Low range steep inclines or towing my 1500kg van.

Now that I've had the ECU reflashed, it runs more boost, makes more power, and no longer overheats. But I'm not convinced the 2 or 3 severe ovrheating episodes (read ECU cutting fuel) haven't done lasting damage. Time will tell. If the thing sh@ts itself the vehicle will get an LS transplant.

The ECU map it's running now should be mandatory ex factory........ It's that much better.
I know it's a bit off topic, but how much the ECU remap cost, and exactly what difference did it make? Once our Nissan warranty runs out we intend to do it. We're not unhappy with the car but if performance can be easily be upgraded its something we'd do.
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Old 14-12-2016, 06:38 PM
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4.8 for the win.
Just buy, drive, fill up and drive again.
Best option by far.
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