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Old 03-06-2010, 08:37 AM
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Post Replacing GU wheel bearings.

I couldn't find a thread with pics to repack/replace front wheel bearings on a GU so here it is. Vehicle is a 2000 coil cab ute and looks like I have done it just in time as the grease seems to have some water in it (from the beach).

First is to jack it up and put it on wheel stands. It is a lot easier to crack the bolts holding the free wheeling hub while the wheel is on the ground. Then remove wheel.

Remove free wheeling hub. Also remove the brake caliper and tie up out of the way. You have to remove the whole thing not just the piston like in this photo.

Remove the circlip and locking gear for the freewheeling hub. Undo the two screws and remove the locking plate.

Undo the nut. This is a threaded disc and I used a pin punch to get it undone then it unscrews easily.The whole disc assembly should slide off the stub bearings and all.

You can now remove the old bearings and seal.

Make sure it is all clean before packing and installing new bearings.

Everything should go back together in the reverse order.

Make sure you tighten the nut up fairly tight then back it off 1/8 of a turn, or if you're fancy you can buy a hub nut socket and tighten it as per the manual. Also ensure there is no grease on the brake rotor before putting the caliper back on.

Old bearings with contaminated grease.
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2010, 08:46 AM
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Good simple writeup and good pics! Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:55 PM
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Cheers ScullsGU,
Just did mine your help made it easier..
Just a quick question for ya, or anyone else, how hot should the hubs be after a drive??
Cheers
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:35 PM
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cheers for the write up, did my mine on the weekend...
just a quick question though... how hot should ya hubs be? i used castrol high temp bearing grease.. imthinkin it is the brakes thats making it hot....
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:51 PM
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Should be able to touch the hub and not be too hot
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:02 PM
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just a quick question whats the easiest way of getting the disc assembly off if its stuck on
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Old 31-03-2013, 02:09 PM
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Doing my wheel front wheel bearings on my 99 GU but can't get the lock washer off, any ideas? The bearing has collapsed.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:31 AM
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Doing my wheel front wheel bearings on my 99 GU but can't get the lock washer off, any ideas? The bearing has collapsed.

I used needle nose pliers and some wire and a bit of effort
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yobekaw View Post
just a quick question whats the easiest way of getting the disc assembly off if its stuck on
Disc rotor?

When i was in my shed a press works best, now i have a rental house and no press available i take off the seal from the back of the hub, put a piece of 25mm steel plate that i cut out at work that fits perfect on the hub and doesnt touch the disc (disc side down) this gives just enough room to bash the living crap out of the rotor to get it off. my current GU rotors pretty much fell off with a small tap, a previous set on my gq diff had my 30 tonne press wishing it was 50tonne. after i get the old rotor off i give the hub a wizz with my gasket sander (120 grit sand paper will work too) and put it all back together.

or do you mean the hub (bit with the bearings in it and rotor around it)?

pull hard
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Old 13-04-2013, 02:38 PM
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I'm going to do this tomorrow. My workshop manual says to discard the snap ring after removing the auto locking hub. Is that necessary, or can I just reuse the existing one?
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Old 13-04-2013, 02:52 PM
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Hopefully none of you have to go through this: Bearing no malice.... There are a few things to watch out for if you're doing this for the first time, especially the installation of the inner seal. The tightening procedure for setting the bearing pre-load is also fairly critical.
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Old 13-04-2013, 03:37 PM
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Mabs I'm still reusing the original snap ring after 13 years and 240,000km, that doesn't make it right however I went to local Nissan shop a couple of years ago to order same and they said they never carry them because they NEVER replace them...wouldn't mind a spare though!
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Old 13-04-2013, 07:02 PM
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Thanks Porks, I was thinking replacing it seemed unnecessary unless it's stuffed.

Ray - that sounds like an epic. I've read a few other threads that suggest it is easy, but now you have thrown a spanner in the works! - pun intended.

I have all the tools and hopefully my bearings come out a little easier than yours!
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:20 PM
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Default front wheel bearing help

Hi guys,

I know this is an older listing but i just did my front bearng on the right hand side, intend to do both.
This turned out to be a lot harder than expected the main problem was removing the old inner cup, anyway put it all back together and now have a lumpy cluncking sound that is worse when unloaded at a roundabout etc.

I will crack it open again tomorrow and check that the nut is not to loose. but does any one have any ideas as to what it could be and is there a case of to much grease?

To make t worse the squealing noise when i turn right is still there arrgh.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:26 AM
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Remove the freewheeling hub and make sure that it has been located properly. With the hub removed turn the wheel and if it turns smoothly and without noise, then it's probably the hub.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:42 AM
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if there is too much grease it will push out the rear wiper seals when it warms up, no harm done, just messy.

sounds stupid, but check your radius arm bolts and panhard. Im guessing the squeal/clunk is on the unloaded wheel side? did you preload the bearing properly? auto hubs click sometimes in that situation when getting worn down, did you put the thrust washer back on the CV? this can cause a clunk sometimes. powersteer pump squeal... there are many possibilities
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Old 13-08-2013, 12:37 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys i went back checked the bearings and cleaned out the grease from the auto hub while there and put a few drops of oil in as suggested on another post. That seems to have solved the clicking noise.

I think the problem maybe in the swivel hub, i removed a bolt from the lower bearing and checked the grease which came out black and gritty and it did get worse after a mud puddle.
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Old 13-08-2013, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray! View Post
Hopefully none of you have to go through this: Bearing no malice.... There are a few things to watch out for if you're doing this for the first time, especially the installation of the inner seal. The tightening procedure for setting the bearing pre-load is also fairly critical.

Seeing as my driveway is on a slope, I jack up the front end to level the engine for every oil change on both our Safaris. It also makes it easy to check the wheel bearings every oil change. After repacking bearings, I usually check them 3-4 times withing the course of a couple weeks to make sure there is no play. I never use to be so finicky but being in Canada and not being able to get spares at the local part shop or breakers is a great motivator to do a little extra.
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Old 13-08-2013, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunderlicious View Post
if there is too much grease will push out the rear wiper seals when it warms up, no harm done, just messy.

sounds stupid, but check your radius arm bolts and panhard. Im guessing the squeal/clunk is on the unloaded wheel side? did you preload the bearing properly? auto hubs click sometimes in that situation when getting worn down, did you put the thrust washer back on the CV? this can cause a clunk sometimes. powersteer pump squeal... there are many possibilities
Hey chunder, thanks for the help the squealing noise has me stumped. It happens when moving at any speed and turning right but stops when i hit the brakes or turn left. The power steering pump appears to be ok.
I did fix the clunking noise by cleaning out the auto hubs and making sure it was all back together ok. However the unloaded right wheel is still an issue as it skips aroung when turning.
I will check the radius arm bolts ant the panhard had not thought of that.
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Old 13-08-2013, 07:44 PM
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I used to get a strange squealing noise in mine, turns out it was a small rock jammed between the disc and backing plate.
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