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  #61  
Old 20-05-2017, 07:49 AM
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^^^ Pickup the body lift kit from any 4wd shop. It's nylon cylindrical blocks and longer bolts.

Fitting is just a paitient job with a few jacks and a good set of eyes. Pretty straight forward with two exceptions from memory:

1) Rear two bolts are always rusted in as the captive nuts are hidden in the body above. So I had to cut into the floor for access and from memory chop out the body mounted nuts (or maybe I drilled them through can't remember) and insert the bolts from the top as opposed as factory which is from the bottom.

2) You'll need to purchase a kit (or some patience with a welder mucking around with secondary linkage lengths) to modify the transfer lever cam rail as the lever will want to be buried in the dashboard as the throw window from end to end is modified when you've lifted the body. Either you can't select the 2H position or the 4L position. The kit from Marks Adaptors or Superior Engineering or some such business will sort this out though.
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  #62  
Old 20-05-2017, 07:56 AM
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I wouldn't go anywhere on a serious trip, especially across state lines, on 37" tyres.

You'll get stickered I guarantee it. I got one in Ceduna middle of nowhere, 33" rubber, 2" springs and 50mm body lift, and it was 10 days after passing ALL my mods after 3year build, and I was on my Honeymoon 2010.

It doesn't matter if your build is riteous, a sticker is a sticker, and once applied they are a nightmare, are of max duration 14 days and wreck the ambiance your seek on your trip.

You can't transit a spare 4x37" set you'll need a support vehicle, just fit up 6x top quality tyres in a conservative size. I'd head out on the ones I wear ATM which are 315/75r16.
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  #63  
Old 20-05-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by OZTour2017 View Post
Cheers Boundry Rider, definitely something to consider. I haven't actually bought a lift kit yet but was thinking 4" lift and running 37"tyres, a set of HT and a set of muddies on board. Being able to use the right tyre depending on where I am should give me a load of k's and best performance (prob the most expensive part of project). Like I said though haven't made any commitment to this yet, just thoughts. Plenty of other things to do first.

Cheers Boundry Rider
37" tyres for touring on a GQ ? You might wear out your extended tailshaft �� I think you are taking the piss with this thread
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  #64  
Old 20-05-2017, 10:26 AM
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37" tyres for touring on a GQ ? You might wear out your extended tailshaft �� I think you are taking the piss with this thread
Seriously Sydo have you a constructive or adventurous bone in your body. I appreciate all advice and constructive criticism, but positive feedback is most welcome. Have you never heard of anyone doing these mods?
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  #65  
Old 20-05-2017, 10:35 AM
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Have you done any research into 37"s on a GQ ? Has it got a turbo ? What diff gears ?
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  #66  
Old 20-05-2017, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Boundry Rider View Post
I wouldn't go anywhere on a serious trip, especially across state lines, on 37" tyres.

You'll get stickered I guarantee it. I got one in Ceduna middle of nowhere, 33" rubber, 2" springs and 50mm body lift, and it was 10 days after passing ALL my mods after 3year build, and I was on my Honeymoon 2010.

It doesn't matter if your build is riteous, a sticker is a sticker, and once applied they are a nightmare, are of max duration 14 days and wreck the ambiance your seek on your trip.

You can't transit a spare 4x37" set you'll need a support vehicle, just fit up 6x top quality tyres in a conservative size. I'd head out on the ones I wear ATM which are 315/75r16.
Cheers Boundry Rider like I said nothing set in stone yet. I am just running 265 70 r16's now, I drive across wet ground on a daily basis and my experience is get substantially bigger tyres. Normally I have someone around to help me out when I get bogged but you can't always depend on that and honestly I am over it now and prefer trouble free motoring. Of course, what is that. I really don't want a sticker so whatever I do will be done with care.

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  #67  
Old 20-05-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Boundry Rider View Post
^^^ Pickup the body lift kit from any 4wd shop. It's nylon cylindrical blocks and longer bolts.

Fitting is just a paitient job with a few jacks and a good set of eyes. Pretty straight forward with two exceptions from memory:

1) Rear two bolts are always rusted in as the captive nuts are hidden in the body above. So I had to cut into the floor for access and from memory chop out the body mounted nuts (or maybe I drilled them through can't remember) and insert the bolts from the top as opposed as factory which is from the bottom.

2) You'll need to purchase a kit (or some patience with a welder mucking around with secondary linkage lengths) to modify the transfer lever cam rail as the lever will want to be buried in the dashboard as the throw window from end to end is modified when you've lifted the body. Either you can't select the 2H position or the 4L position. The kit from Marks Adaptors or Superior Engineering or some such business will sort this out though.
Cheers have thought of body lift to gain more clearance for tyres as well. With less suspension lift.
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  #68  
Old 20-05-2017, 10:58 AM
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Exclamation tailshaft

Think I might start a thread in the suspension or tyres category if that's what you blokes want to talk about, just had this thread for talk on the tailshaft.

Cheers all
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  #69  
Old 20-05-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by OZTour2017 View Post
Cheers Boundry Rider, definitely something to consider. I haven't actually bought a lift kit yet but was thinking 4" lift and running 37"tyres, a set of HT and a set of muddies on board. Being able to use the right tyre depending on where I am should give me a load of k's and best performance (prob the most expensive part of project). Like I said though haven't made any commitment to this yet, just thoughts. Plenty of other things to do first.

Cheers Boundry Rider
Are you talking about just a weekend warrior vehicle, where you can go home change to the muddies on a Friday night for hitting the hard tracks on the weekend, or I thought your planning a tourer for around Aus?


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Originally Posted by OZTour2017 View Post
Seriously Sydo have you a constructive or adventurous bone in your body. I appreciate all advice and constructive criticism, but positive feedback is most welcome. Have you never heard of anyone doing these mods?
Yes sure there are a lot of guys on this forum and on others that have done big lifts, big tyres and some still run 37" tyres for day to day, but it makes them a pig of a thing to drive most of the time, for the slight advantage you might get on the seriously tough tracks. Talk to many of the guys that ran bigger tyres and went on a long trip you will find most change back to a 33" or 35" for travel. Diff ratios will be needing to change or the thing will be working harder, using more fuel more likely to overheat in difficult conditions etc. etc.

If your thinking about this as a tourer, then I have to try and talk you out of it. Hence your probably feeling there are some negative comments creeping into the discussion.
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  #70  
Old 20-05-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by OZTour2017 View Post
Think I might start a thread in the suspension or tyres category if that's what you blokes want to talk about, just had this thread for talk on the tailshaft.

Cheers all
We have more than enough threads on Suspension even with 37's. You said your rig is a tourer if that means interstate travel then to be safe 33's and 2 inch and no body lift is your safety net. 35's is a luck of the draw for a sticker. 37's are silly on a road rig besides illegal and questionable without 18 inch rims. And don't think a engineers cert will exempt you from a sticker out side the state of issue it wont. 4 inch lift with 37's and body lift is not acceptable outside the exemption issue of usage. That's not touring my friend and outside the scope of issue, if it was possible to find a DOT reg engineer that would be stupid enough to sign off on those sorts of mods on a road reg tourer. I do know these things i once was one.

I am starting to wonder if you are taking the piss here as well, I wouldn't if i were you.

Your tail shaft extension issue:- Your use of wording is confusing to say the least. The advice is very clear here you don't need a extended length tail-shaft, adjustable top links will allow you to adjust for correct flange alignment of the pinion and transfer flanges.(which is near parallel if you didn't know) This reduces the need for a longer slide at full droop. A slightly longer lower link will reduce the pinion rotation arc so reducing ever more the need for a longer slide, also will put your wheelbase back to near std spec if that's important to you on a lifted rig. Superior have a smart engineer doing there suspension design i am at a loss as to why you are second guessing his obvious superior engineering smarts.(cool pun eh)

Sure go ahead and get a custom built tail shaft have it designed with the same closed length or a bit less as your STD tail shaft. The longer travel in the slide cannot hurt only your pocket. Don't make the closed length longer because if you do and you bottom out the tail-shaft yoke on full suspension compression you can say goodbye to your transfer case and a nice large hole in your pocket.

Nissan tail shafts are usually quite good and the yoke slides are not known to wear under normal conditions, I think the tube wall thickness is a little too thin for real 4 wheeling, nothing worse than a bent tail-shaft out in the never never. But a replacement longer fine spline yoke slide can reduce some of those low rpm low gear gearbox rattle sounds TD patrols are noted for, that's a good thing. Unless your tail-shaft is bent or weights have fallen off or your yoke slide has excessive wear from all the mud you seem to be working in then i am totally lost in your illogically rational as to why you have this mind set of needing a extended new tail-shaft. As you haven't told us or given us any reason for its replacement. The only misleading concept you have given here is to extend your wheel base that's confusing unless your plan is to extend your chassis.

Considering your logic is somewhat confusing and your thread is in a tech section if you hadn't noticed next to my avatar it says ADMIN so i will be watching this thread carefully.
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  #71  
Old 20-05-2017, 12:55 PM
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Well put Pete
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  #72  
Old 20-05-2017, 09:44 PM
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I haven't actually bought a lift kit yet but was thinking 4" lift and running 37"tyres, a set of HT and a set of muddies on board.
A statement like that is what makes people wonder if you are pulling our chain. You'll need a decent trailer just to carry the full set of 37" Muddies while you have the HTs on the car. I have a full size roof rack and two 37" muddies fill it with little room for anything else.

There are a number of good reasons why the average touring Patrol has a 2" lift with 32 to 33 inch tyres and no body lift. Legalities is only part of it. High lifts reduce stability. They make normal on-road handling poor and reduce the amount of side slope you can deal with offroad. A GU can handle pretty big rubber with not much more than some lift and some extra wheel offset. A GQ is another matter completely. The guards need to be cut before there is enough room for rubber the size you are talking about. The other problems with big tyres is gearing and braking. You are talking about tyres 20% larger in diameter than stock. This will make the car over geared unless both sets of diff gears are replaced which adds significant cost. This still leaves the brakes outgunned by the extra torque generated by the big wheels when stopping. The minimum change needed will be a different master cylinder but on a GQ you can expect that the front calipers will need to be changed as well.

Rather than coming here with preconceived ideas on what is needed to build an awesome tourer you would do better to outline your needs and wants as well as some sort of budget and get some input about realistic mods that will help you achieve what you want without breaking the bank. Also have a look through the Members Rides section of the forum and see what others have done that works well. Some of the mods you are talking about (37s) will be quite expensive to implement properly and might produce a result you are unhappy with. Learn from other people's mistakes if you can rather than pay for your own mistakes.

Others will disagree but IMO body lifts are the biggest waste of money you can spend on a Patrol. To look right they require special bullbars, special rear bumpers, special rock sliders, as well as alterations to the fuel filler, brake lines, breather lines etc. The worst part is that the benefits are minimal. The only reason to do one is if you want to keep things completely legal and 2" suspension lift is not enough for the sort of driving you do, otherwise just go with more suspension lift

As others have indicated, there is no need to make any alterations to a Patrol tailshaft with suspension lifts up to 4" unless you are using quite long rear trailing arms. Another issue is that you can't go too long with the rear arms on a GQ without pushing the tyres back into the guards. My advice is to forget about the tail shaft and keep the lower arms to no more than 13mm longer than stock. I would advise you change the lower arms though. They are the weakest link in a Patrol's suspension and should be replaced with stronger ones even if you keep them stock length. Point of caution here, GQ lower arms are shorter than GU so be careful what you get.
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  #73  
Old 21-05-2017, 07:20 PM
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On hoist.
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  #74  
Old 21-05-2017, 10:57 PM
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On hoist.
What length shocks?
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  #75  
Old 21-05-2017, 11:01 PM
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what length shocks?
4" ome. Not much difference to other pic on level ground
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  #76  
Old 22-05-2017, 12:28 AM
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There wouldn't be. As the diff swings forward when it moves down, it also swings in an arc forwards so the tailshaft maintains a fairly static length compared to what you might imagine, which is why it's virtually unheard of for informed people who can picture suspension movement in 3D to consider ill-advised unnecessary modifications such as extensions of components that are not considered requirements by any of the most respected and experienced folks in off road racing, winch comps, touring and general extreme modifications of patrols in the country.
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  #77  
Old 22-05-2017, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by OZTour2017 View Post
Cheers Boundry Rider, definitely something to consider. I haven't actually bought a lift kit yet but was thinking 4" lift and running 37"tyres, a set of HT and a set of muddies on board. Being able to use the right tyre depending on where I am should give me a load of k's and best performance (prob the most expensive part of project). Like I said though haven't made any commitment to this yet, just thoughts. Plenty of other things to do first.

Cheers Boundry Rider
I'm sorry but I too am struggling now to take you seriously. I thought this thread started with you not really explaining your thoughts properly but now this comment and your lack of following comments makes me wonder if it was all just a wind up. If not I do apologise.

However, you are going from a simple exercise of over engineering a tailshaft replacement to now making your whole touring idea totally impractical. If you start running around with uprated suspension components, bigger tyres and rims, in this case not just a set of ridiculous 37's but 2 sets of 37's and extra rims and all your normal touring requirements you are going to have to also get a GVM upgrade engineered before you tackle this trip. So many guys on here before you have realised and struggled with over capacity weight issues without seemingly going ridiculously overboard.

It's your choice at the end of the day but the overwhelming advise on here is telling you the same thing and this is at odds to what you seem to want to do, so I'm not sure why you keep asking.

There was a funny old wives tale shared around years ago about the old bloke who did a desert trip each year in his old Landrover. He knew the axles were not super strong so he always took a spare for each one as well as all the usual spares and camping gear. Luckily he did because every trip he broke an axle. One year though he took a mate and the mate helping him pack forgot to pack the extra set of axles. Guess what they never broke anything on that trip. Was it the reduced weight or a coincidence.

Uprated driveshafts, uprated trailing arms, uprated shocks, springs, drop boxes, bigger tyres etc etc etc all add up to potentially problematic weight.
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