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TB42, TB45 and TD42 clutch and fan mods

108K views 601 replies 43 participants last post by  Skyetb45 
#1 · (Edited)
Started this as I inadvertently pi$sed of a vendor

topic is related to general fan clutch and fan cooling mods that have been made to my TB42's - some are going to be usable on TD42's as long as you swap clutch hubs with their fans

thread to be gradually updated while I prune some of my other material from other posts

happy for others to include their mods as this is meant to be a community issue for me, so any help, contributions or comments appreciated

I'm not a vendor, so I'm not making a quid out of sharing this info. its "free" to assist others with their TB42 cooling probs - if it helps other engines then thats a plus

My average driving temp is 80c
My worst temp under load going up a hill (waikerie road where its a 2km incline) in 44deg and over a 5 day period where temps were over 40c was 100
My front loaded thermo fan is now set to trigger at 95c and shuts off when temp returns to 85c
 
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#543 ·
If you really want one, I've just removed one from the bleed outlet of my alu rad to weld a bung in for my low coolant alarm but in my thermostat housing I swapped that outlet for a 1/4 bspt bung. Looks a lot neater and no rubber cap required anymore..
 
#555 ·
I think that outlet is a leftover from the GQ cooling system. I think they had a hose that went to a top remote tank to assist in bleeding.

Yes, the bungs are neater and they eliminate a small leak risk when the rubber cap perishes.
 
#565 ·
My '99 TD42T has never had a hose fitted between the thermostat housing and the radiator filler neck.
Apparently, the same engine didn't need the bleeding help in a GU :) They just stuck the rubber cap over it.

Sorry, I just read where you said it's a bleed nipple under the rubber. I thought it was just the old GQ pipe covered up.
 
#567 ·
I think I'm maybe just not understanding the term 'bleed nipple' which suggests something you can slowly open/close to let air out. My TD42T engine is from a GQ and it just had a pipe there very similar to the pipe the GUs have on the firewall heater hose connection that has the same rubber cap.

Your description that the rubber cap just keeps the crud out (as opposed to keeping the pressure in) suggests it is a real bleed device but I've never seen one.

Edit: meant to add that I've never had a bleeding issue since my conversion and I've had the rad out countless times for different reasons. I just run it until thermostat opens and top it up next day if it hasn't pulled enough in from the expansion tank.
 
#569 ·
I think I'm maybe just not understanding the term 'bleed nipple' which suggests something you can slowly open/close to let air out. My TD42T engine is from a GQ and it just had a pipe there very similar to the pipe the GUs have on the firewall heater hose connection that has the same rubber cap.

Your description that the rubber cap just keeps the crud out (as opposed to keeping the pressure in) suggests it is a real bleed device but I've never seen one.
John,

Your post got me doubting myself, so I went and dug out the 'bleed nipple' from deep in the bowels of the rear drawers. It turns out that you are correct. The fitting I removed is not a 'bleed nipple' at all, and the rubber cap is needed for sealing.

My apologies.

Funny what the passage of time can do to the memory (mine especially....:rolleyes:).
It's a good many years since I removed the fitting.

Cheers,
Geoff
 
#577 ·
Still got the stock core. This one seemed to fix the overheating prob it had way back when I got it.
I have since lifted it, put bigger muddies on it anx a roof rack and put a heap of crap in front of the rad.
Looking in the top of it when I had it out the cores seemed ok.
The plastic tanks are 17 years old now though.
 
#580 · (Edited)
I think one of the things mentioned throughout the various G35 mods is that you still have to allow clearance for flex, the only fan that won't flex forward as easily is the mercedes 450 alloy fan - but that requires modified ring mounts. I never went down the mercedes alloy fan path as it was more work to modify (BUT - if I was going to do lots of deep water or wading I'd pick the mercedes alloy fan. metal fans still get pulled forward under severe hydro forces though. the deep wading kits for Unimogs include swapping the stock fan for an alloy one - but they're about $1800 each just for the fan)

I'm kind of surprised that its pulled forward in dry conditions, he must have had bugger all radiator backface to fan clearance to start with

G35/c34/Prado switchback fans will pull forward but take a lot longer to do it - you still need to watch clearances.

I think JFF45 pulled his radiator forward a few mm so as to avoid/minimise this occurring

under what circumstances did this happen?
 
#585 ·
yep, thats why you see some where they either pull the radiator forward a few mm by making new retainers, or by re-banding the top of the shroud.

I rebanded mine with a strip of alloy sheet. it gave me about 3cm of extra clearance.

easiest way is to get an aftermarket shroud and then cut off the top and re-band it (ie put a bigger top shroud section on top)

I think I paid $65 for the after market shroud and $2 for the alloy edging strip (about 75mm wide) from a scrappy dealer
 
#591 ·
originally suits 91 CEDRIC/GLORIA (1991/06 - 2014/09) - but you need to measure the PCD to make sure

IIRC it should, but measure between the diagonal clutch mounting holes

i think those cedrics fan had a positive offset mounting band as well (mounting band is closer to the engine than towards the radiator

off the cuff, I'd say that there's not going to be much benefit in fitting it - but if its as a replacement just to deal with an existing dodgey fan clutch then its an easy solution
 
#592 ·
sorry to bring up a dead, but cant seem to find if you have tried a c34 on the g35 hub? would it fit and clear? Have read most of this post but cant seem to find anything on this. to me, it seems youd get a harder locking hub and a harder pulling fan with no clearance issues? Am i misunderstanding something here?

currently got a td42t gu ute with a serious kettle case. had 320 egt the other day while coolant was on 125 (so im assuming not a fueling issue). new adrad factory rad, new genuine thermostat, flushed cooling system(inc reverse). going to try a new water pump and new hub. my hub isnt up to scratch any more, even after adding new yota oil to it
Thanks
Jerome
 
#593 · (Edited)
been a while since I played with these combos, but IIRC the C34 has the same stud pattern as the G35 but has a different offset.

come to think of it, IIRC G35 has a negative offset whereas C34 had a positive offset - ie it will be closer to rear of the radiator when mounted. I might have given the wrong offset in prev post. unfort I only have the alloy mercedes and BMW fan mods left, so can't drag out a C34/H34 and G35 out to have a look

I think the C34 had a greater swept area but less aggressive pitch than the G35
 
#595 ·
the reason why I started testing C34/H34 fans was because soon after I started publishing the G35 results there was a rush on G35 fans - people found it hard to source them, evem from some of the usual middle east suppliers

so the C34/H34 fans were the closest match for an aggressive pitch in a switch back design and they were far more easily sourced as people hadn't cottoned on to them as an option. However I think even they became hard to find and then people started looking at some of the Triton switchbacks. Personally not my cup of tea as I don't think the Tritons were as aerodynamically efficient. the sharp tips don't deal with cavitation bleed as efficiently as the C34/H34 G35's

C34/H34's are only produced in white poly. the G35's are black
 
#596 ·
Hello,

Has any one experimented with a fan upgrade for the std 4.8 petrol hub?

Car was getting hot (105 deg) at low speed 4wding up hilly tracks, I've now cleaned out the condenser and radiator (fairly dirty) and have cleaned out the oil of original clutch hub and have put in 2 tubes of Toyota silicon fluid.

The fan is looking like it should be replace so I thought if I was going to get a new one an upgrade would be the go.

Any feed back would be great.
 
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