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What did you do to your GU/GQ Patrol today?

2M views 17K replies 2K participants last post by  pronvit 
#1 ·
So as the title says, what did you do to your patrol today, fitted a 6" lift or just swapped some tyres over?



Ill start, today i removed about 50m of unused wiring that was in the car when i got it and the 5 relays that done NOTHING! and 2 switches on the dash that went no where.
Then i put a missile switch and rocker switch on the dash so i can winch in the comfort of my cab with out having hang out the window with the controller :)

Then i took it for a drive :)
 
#12,675 ·
Fitted my 42" curved light bar. It's entirely spot-beam rather than a combo spot & flood, so I get very little reflection off the bonnet as the light is projected past it. Very happy with it, and I love the little LED segments in the middle which act as parkers/DRLs! They look really bright in the last pic, but they're not much brighter than my LED parkers in the flesh.





 
#12,676 ·
Looks good!
Not worried about the DRL's on the roof and the cops? (I forget if roof lights are legal in Vic)
 
#12,679 ·
Just ask any ostrich how ignorance works for them. If they are still alive.
 
#12,685 ·
new big mouth scoop has finally arrived. took less than 10 minutes to fit and has dropped EGTs by 20-30 degrees across the rev range. very happy with it and it was only $180 odd bucks! lucky my patrol is white so i can leave it as is for awhile before i bother getting it and the bonnet painted
 
#12,686 ·
Put my old standard lower trailing arms back in, the bushes in the 'hd..' road runner +11 arms are conpletely FARKED after like 30k.....
Drives like a million times smoother, I thought it was backlash from the rear diff at first till I had someone spot me rolling back and forth.

Tuesday and winning!!
 
#12,688 ·
I'll have to look at the bushes in mine at some point, standard arms but on occasions feels like there's some backlash.
 
#12,696 ·
Installed the ST roof console over the last week or so. I can finally see into the footwells at night.

I wired it directly to the dx interior light and can only get it to work with the door open atm, so need to tweek it tomorrow and find a live wire.

Any suggestions from ST owners or factory wiring photos welcome.



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#12,697 ·
New brake pads all round, and even put in a new set of shims. Full fluid flush. Put in the softer front pads - All sourced from Gary a NIZZBITS - stops a LOT better now ....



 
#12,698 ·
Were they the soft 4.8 pads? If so that is what I put into mine last year and they are bloody marvelous.
 
#12,699 ·
Yep - went those because you mentioned them in your thread. SOOOO Much better that the originals. SO much better under the pedal.
 
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#12,703 ·
Much appreciated. Now I know what to focus on, I need to stock up on wire.

Thanks for the info. Do you wonder if I could splice into an acc wire direct, (leaving the wired door trigger in place) allowing the best of both worlds?
 
#12,704 ·
I found a thread on here somewhere that explained how to use the map lights as intended but also have them turn on as interior lights when the door opened.
It involved using a diode on each light and running a wires from your existing circuit or in your case a separate power.
I did my car and it is so much better than the standard set up


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#12,707 ·
Started my "quick job" of swapping the dash lighting and installing my 2 Trax duel gauges.... Well at the end of day 2 I have 1 gauge in and working BUT all of the groundwork is done with cabling. Just need to connect up the the water temp and oil pressure and the second gauge will be in!





I would however like to see if anyone has pulled out the light filter from the dash cluster to bring the LED's back to a white colour? Is it a pita job?
And trying to figure out how I can hook up a dimmer to the gauges as they are super bright even when they are "dimmed" with the light switch

Totally underestimated how long it would take to get the old EGT probe out of the dump pipe :( and had to extend the short cable on it, did some reading and saw it has to be the same type of cable with no solder so I used some of the old EGT cable and twisted the joins with pliers then heat shrink'd. Seems to be behaving properly so far :)


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#12,717 ·
And trying to figure out how I can hook up a dimmer to the gauges as they are super bright even when they are "dimmed" with the light switch

Totally underestimated how long it would take to get the old EGT probe out of the dump pipe :( and had to extend the short cable on it, did some reading and saw it has to be the same type of cable with no solder so I used some of the old EGT cable and twisted the joins with pliers then heat shrink'd. Seems to be behaving properly so far :)
Hope I helped with dimming the gauges in the other thread...

tisk tisk!
from memory the egt probe is a thermocouple type. this means resistance of the cable is very important and any join (soldered or crimped or twisted) will dramatically change the resistance of the cable.
the way you have joined that cable will fail over time and will always (from day 1) give you inaccurate readings.


****As always, happy to be corrected by those with more experience and knowledge than me.
 
#12,708 ·
Finally got around to installing the self adhesive LED strip lighting (I've had for at least a year) under the alluminium groove in my 2.5m awning, works a treat.
 
#12,715 ·
Fitted a new set of driving lights, my 17 year old Cibies were rusting around the chrome band, well not exactly new lights, I won them at Pinaroo meetup a few years ago and they have been sitting on the shelf in the shed ever since......
 
#12,720 ·
Did a quick headlight bulb replacement. NOT!! I don't have big hands so could manage to fit the left side one easy enough, but not the driver side. I just couldn't get the clip to work. Looks like the section where the clip rests was worn out. I eventually dropped the clip inside the lens. Had to take the grill off, indicator out, then the headlight out. Once out, it was easy as. Guys, remove you headlight if you think you're going to struggle...
 
#12,721 ·
over the last few weeks have completed the following.
remove and refit injector pump after a holiday at united fuel injection
remove and refit shocks after rebuilding them. had neck bush machined and modified to suit different type of seal as the band type seals in the src shocks whilst good for high pressure constantly leak. so far so good with them
fit new bush to passenger side engine mount. not as much vibration now.
cut bottom of long range main tank and reskin using 5mm plate. hopefully no more dents now but have to pull back out to suss out why fuel gauge isnt reading correctly. wont read below 3/8 of a tank.
quick service before i leave to mexico tomorrow.
 
#12,722 ·
Got around to completing the recent 322,000k 'grease' part of my 'greasy oil', backed the troll up on my old ramps to make it easier. Added 250ml of G70 to the gearbox seeing as it has done a few K since the rebuild. Also installed a 3rd earth strap (to be sure to be sure), this one running directly from the battery to the chassis.

My old ramps belonged to my stepfather, the first time I used them was on my old Ford Consul around 1963, and they were well and truly 'used' then, they can still handle a 3 tonne vehicle backing up on them. From the days when things were made to a quality not a price.........
 
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