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  #1  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:03 AM
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Default Geeyoutoo's 3L DI Troll

Here's my build thread with a few pics and a bit of info. She's nothing special on the outside (just tidy the way I like it) but special to me on the inside. Here's the old girl in all her glory, now 17 years old*, owned since new. Prettiest grenade in my area.

I'm not after the most horsepower I can get, I'm after the best torque I can get reliably, mods so far have seen usable torque drop from 2500rpm of years ago to 1800rpm and max Hp move from 3740rpm down to 3400rpm, recent ECU remap (Jan 2017) has increased torque and lowered the point at which it kicks in .

Will add a list of of some of the mods I've done and work from there, will assign post numbers where I can, sometimes there will be several parts to a project meaning later post numbers.

Vehicle has full NADS with Dual Spoolup control rather than my much earlier dual boost control, including optional heavy duty spring which allows me to run 21psi without worrying about the spring softening. This means I run the 21psi and can switch over to a slower spoolup giving me improved fuel eco on flat ground, low stress driving.

ECU Remap post 677 and update in post776
Explanation on what ICV% is with a Bosch VP44 post 601
Further mods to Turbo intake and discussion on an upgrade starts at post 538
VP44 Banjo bolt upgrade post 511
Dual Spoolup conversion, power/fuel eco post 420, video in post 429
Erratic fuel gauge mystery solved, earth... post 376
Leather binding of steering wheel post 371
Turbo Outlet to Intercooler Modification post 345
Turbo inlet and Airbox mods. post 180 on and continued in Post 217
Turbo, dismantling a damaged turbo post 384
Turbo VNT adjustment *note, a method of controlling spoolup, not used much now. post12
Water Meth injection with custom stainless tank. Original DO install post 5, pre turbo post 18+, additional changes from post 373
TPS Control of WaterMeth Injection Solenoid post 236
Fuel Cooler. post 6
JayCar MAF voltage interceptor. post 7
Dawes Vavle setup. post 8
Dawes HD Spring Fitting to a std Dawes. post 15
GlowPlug timer. post 9
Lift Pump, spill line mod and 3way pump switch including isolation. post 10
Day time running light installation. post 11
Std air scoop efficiency on a CCIC video post13
Cross Country Intercooler. post 14
Spill Line Modification. see lift pump post 10
Rear Door Table. post 16
Swirl valve disconnect. post 17
AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge. post 74
Fuel Bleed Valve. see AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge post 74
Fumoto sump drain plug. post 117
Dawes with Ceramic Ball Fitted post 209-216
RDA slotted and dimpled disks fitted with Nissan 4.8 pads post 282
DTronic.
LED Work Light rear mounted.
Rear Draws.
Beaudesert 2 3/4" exhaust.
Tough Dog shocks.
Dobinson Coils.
AirBags.



Gorillas in the Mist Down South
Gorillas in the mist.1.jpg

Another more recent Gorillas in the Mist Down South (Jan 2017)
P1030865.jpg

A little Further North.
P1010839.1.jpg
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My Dawes valve works fine! Where did I go wrong? .

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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 10-04-2017 at 12:16 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:55 AM
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Hmmm....Nice play on words there!
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:03 PM
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Here's the Mr Geeyoutoo Troll on a track at Glasshouse Mtns, with Leeroy#1 as spotter:

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Old 11-07-2013, 12:24 PM
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Here's another GH from the opposite end, a 2" lift on steroids and 265's can still get you a fair way in .
GH1B.jpg


And another.
GH5B.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-07-2013 at 01:42 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:02 PM
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Default Water or Water/Meth Injection setup

Water Meth Injection, Devils Own. I chose the Devils Own not because it was the best but because it appeared to be quite good value for money, and I still think that, the pump is sturdy and the controls are simple, there have been a few issues with the DV-30 boost operated progressive controller, but not for me. If you want the best then go Cooling Mist. I have mine rigged up with an over riding pump kill switch mounted in one of the vacant switch positions in the console.

BTW, while I had the throttle body out I removed the butterfly (left the shaft) from the swirl valve, I had much earlier blocked the vacuum line to it and actually felt a difference in off idle pull, so made it permanent.

Fabricated a base plate to pop rivet to the main draws cross brace.
wm4 Bracket Position.jpg

Pump in situ. Delivery line passes through floor grommet in a carefully chosen hole position (hate drilling holes in perfectly good cars) and then runs along the chassis rail, insulated in many places for safety.
wm6 Pump Mounted.jpg

Wiring of progressive controller, level switch and pump, down to and along sill channel to behind and across the back seat.
wm9 12v raw and switched.jpg

Progressive controller in situ, easy to see but not obtrusive. Gotta love Velcro.
wm13 Mounted Controller.jpg

Control wiring passing through to beside draws (fuse block is not for this, second battery components run off this) red fuse holder is main fuse for the pump.
wm16 pump and level alarm.jpg

Nozzle positions in throttle body and IC exit tube.
wm19 2 jets.jpg

Throttle body nozzle sitting just in front of the separation.
wm18 Jet alignment.jpg

Tank, pump, outlet position and low level float position.
wm24 tank in position.jpg

Carpeted the tank to match the draws, Tank cap is an old Milk processing fitting I had. Small line is a one way valve that enables the tank to breath without leakage.
wm26 Carpeted Tank.jpg

2 nozzles, 2gph in IC exit tube and 0.75gph in the throttle body. One way valve just prior to the T piece.
wm nozzles.jpg
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My Dawes valve works fine! Where did I go wrong? .

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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-07-2013 at 01:34 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Default Fuel Cooling

Fuel Cooler, had a brand new transmission cooler I never got around to using on a previous 4by some 15 years ago. It is a 17 row cooler so decided to put it to worthwhile use and mounted it between the power steering cooler and the aircon heat exchanger, I have it mounted upside down for easier fitting, getting full flow through it no worries. The rate of flow through the cooler is spot on 1L/min at idle and 1.9L/Min at 2000rpm, so there is quite an amount of fuel returned.

Originally meant for an EA/EB 6/V8 auto. Results have been encouraging, with a quite flat temp range (from ECUTalk data collection function) considering the pump will recirculate a full tank in well under an hour there is the possibility of residual heat build up. Can't wait for summer now, early indications are good, I was surprised at how stable the temps were on recent long runs.



Quite a compact little heat exchanger, note the 3/8" inlet and outlet, straight reducers are required to get the size down to fit 1/4" fuel hose which is the size of the return line.
P1080652.jpg

About 18mm thick so veryeasy to mount between the power steering cooler and the aircon heat exchanger.
P1080654.jpg

Only had to drill one hole for mounting and that was in the grill mount bracket on the right.
P1080658.jpg

My vehicle has had the spill line mod done so my spill line and return line combine to go through the cooler and back to the tank side of the return line.
P1080706.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-07-2013 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Default JayCar MAF Voltage Modifier

EDIT: 27-02-14. Just for general info, if you ever need to replace the IC4 (EZ9257) it is not listed in any of the JayCar catalouges, I was getting nowhere with the JayCar stores so I e-mailed the techstore about this several days ago as I need one and have not received a reply.

Today I contacted the techstore by phone and got onto a nice fellow who directed me to kits@jaycar.com.au bugga me within 15 minutes I get a reply telling me he has located 2 and where would I like them sent? Great.

So if you find you need a kit part, that is not listed in a cat, then this is your place to start.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MAF Voltage Interceptor. This mod was done in response to multiple limp mode, 3.98v under 3000rpm and another at 3.88v under 2500rpm. A previously installed Turbosmart FCD2 cured the high limp but could not cure the low without performance loss, so decided to go the MAF Voltage Interceptor way.

The kits are available from Jaycar;
1. KC5490 (interceptor) $79.
2. KC5386 (hand controller for setting up and changing the interceptor parameters) $69.
3. 10Kohm pot (for calibrating the interceptor) $10 or so.
4. 26 pin RS232 plugged cable (for connecting hand controller to the interceptor) $13.
5. 1 amp fuse and holder $2-3
6. 0.7 cored solder $?

Easy to assemble after reading the instructions, particularly for what to do first, and also measure the resisters to make sure you put them in the correct spot, colour coding can be a bit difficult to follow sometimes. If soldering is not your forte, look up some YouTube training vids, worthwhile few minutes spent, especially on what size tips and solder to use for fine work, very easy to bridge with a tip that is too big.

Polarity is marked on anything that has it and is easily identified if the part is looked at carefully and the drawing studied (the electrical jargon means nothing to me but close attention to the drawings and parts made it very easy the second time ) Calibration of the pots is what takes the time and must be done carefully, most problems occur during this phase, fully identify what and where to connect for calibration. They are tough little units though, I've inadvertently connected power wrongly during late night stints but they survive.

Finished assembly being setup and load points calibrated.
Setting Up.jpg

Pinout sketch for connection into ECU or the DTronic loom if you have one. Be sure to take note of the offset so you cut into the correct pin.
Pinouts MAF GlowPlugRelay.jpg

Cutting into DTronic loom, same is done to std ECU loom if you don't have this.
MAF GP Timer Loops.jpg

Loom with loops for MAF and GlowPlug timer with emergency system bypass loop plugs.
Loops With Plugs.jpg

JayCar KC 5490 board layout, test resistors for correct Ohms before soldering in, I have incorporated the 1 amp fuse to the box..
P1080711.jpg

System emergency bypass loop plugs.
P1080697.jpg

Hand controller board KC5386, simple assembly, watch the orientation of components.
P1080696.jpg

Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-02-2014 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Default Dawes Setup

I have a dual Dawes system, one set at 10psi (edit: now set to 12 psi after making changes to my water meth system) and the other set at 18.5psi. This is achieved using a normally closed solenoid to control the opening of the second Dawes, my setup is for the high side to be the one that is normally used (in case of solenoid failure the high side is the default, mainly for towing). By flicking a switch on the dash I open the solenoid and low boost is on.

At a later stage I was having bounce issues where on the dyno a bounce of up too 8hp was showing up, this was not always noticeable on the gauge though, to overcome we put a small lawn mower fuel filter right at the VNT to eliminate quick bounce reaction, all fixed, last pic. This is quite different to Dawes spikes. My Dawes controls the boost quite well as shown in this video I did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNed2PHHygw

After doing the installation I close the needle valve and do a short drive to set maximum boost, after that, with the car idling and someone watching the VNT arm, very slowly open the needle valve until the arm just rises off the stop, then close it gently until the arm barely rests, take note of how far open the needle valve is and memorise it, this is your base point. It doen't mean you have to keep it there, if you have no limp and you want the spoolup to be aggressive then leave the needle valve closed until you need it.

Video shows my dual setup, for a single setup just delete the solenoid valve and 2nd Dawes, easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HStgRqphvSE

Schematic Single. For those wishing just one boost setting.
Dawes Single post.jpg

Schematic Dual. For those wishing to enhance fuel economy.
Dual Dawes and Needle Valve post.jpg

EDIT: Have changed how mine is setup, I have removed the resonator so my needle valve return cannot go to the resonator, it is now terminated inside the cab as follows.
Dawes no resonator post.jpg

Vacuum switch looped and bypassed with needle vale line running to the resonator.
2. Bypassed vac switch.jpg

Boost pickup point on my CCIC. It may be tapped into the standard IC with care or tapped/welded into the IC steel inlet or exit tubes.
3. Boost Connection.jpg

4mm ID boost line across fire wall and joined to 3mm OD boost gauge line.
6. Boost gauge adapter for tubing.jpg

Needle valve location in cabin.
9. Location of needle valve.jpg

High/Low boost solenoid switch beside high beam switch.
11. Solenoid switch.JPG

Dawes valves and solenoid switch location, Dawes are inside a fishing rod butt cover and cable tied out of the way to the wiring loom.
12. Solenoid and Dawes.jpg

VNT dampening arrangement to eliminate VNT bounce.
VNT Damper.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 20-05-2015 at 02:26 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Default Glowplug timer installation

I still have my original glowplugs and they have done 240,000k. The timer is to look after them for a little longer and also look after the next set when I fit them. The timer on mine is set to 30 seconds, ignition on, the glow plug light on the dash goes out after 15/20 seconds, the secondary timer starts, the glowplugs are still powered taking about 1 volt away from the battery, when the vehicle starts the secondary timer resets to 30 seconds at which time power to the original plow plug relay is stopped by the timer indicated by the red light going out. Power will still be going, but blocked, for 5 minutes or until the engine has reached 75C, the green light on the timer will then go out.

I have a 12v LED from Repco that is connected to the GP busbar, this gives a quick overall assesment of GP regardless of any other problems, (last 2 pics)

Schematic of wiring principle for Kemo M113A timer. EDIT NOTE: Have since removed the bypass switch as it was found to be unnecessary.
1. Electrical Schematic.jpg

Pinout sketch for connection into ECU or the DTronic loom if you have one. Be sure to take note of the offset so you cut into the correct pin.
Pinouts MAF GlowPlugRelay.jpg

Wired on bench. Note, bypass switch shown is now redundant, using loop connections same as MAF loop bypass plug connector shown below in MAF voltage post.
2. Wired Bench Test.jpg

Wired showing the loop bypass plug connector mentioned above.
3. Timer_ ECU circuit.jpg

ECU plug showing green wire with black trace from pin 111, direction of wiring shown in schematic. Mine is now wired in through the ECU connection on my DTronic chip, basically the same plug. Care is neede when putting the cap back on the plug, wires are easily trapped down the sides and damaged when pushing the cap on.
4. On ECU pin 111.jpg

12volt LED connected to the rear of the glowplug busbar (can be gotten at without removing anything). This gives actual direct indication of power to the glowplugs regardless of any ECU or wiring issue.
5. Busbar LED connection.jpg

Position of 12v LED in cabin, just below the needle valve, easily seen but just out of the way of direct view, glare.
6. Needle_GP LED.jpg
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My Dawes valve works fine! Where did I go wrong? .

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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 19-07-2014 at 12:30 AM.
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  #10  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:04 PM
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Default Lift Pump Installation, Spill Line Mod, Filter Change Priming Mod..

My old IP has 240,000k on it and it needs all the help it can get. Fitting a lift pump takes load off the IP as it no longer has to suck fuel all that distance and in fact with the correct pumps you have around 5psi at the exit to the fuel filter (many SUV's in the US that used the VP44, Dodge being one, fitted lift pumps as standard). This can have a small effect on the timing of the fueling and result in an increase in off idle torque, it certainly did on mine.

Theoretically the ZD30 DI version of the VP44 can handle a maximum of 15psi from the rear but I would be limiting to no more than 10psi for safety and longevity sake, 5-7psi is plenty, this will usually give you around 1-2psi at 3000rpm and that is more than enough to assist the IP without risking damage to seals etc.

After much thought and research I chose the Carter 4600HP, it is rebuildable, has a working life of 10,000 hours and is used in many lift pump applications on diesels in the US, including some work colleagues there.

The spill line mod cuts into a circulation line under the rocker cover and returns the flow to the tank, this line normally has no pressure and sometimes a vacuum, so fitting a lift pump and not doing this mod can see you leaking diesel into your engine, it has happened.

Edit: Have since made a couple of changes,
1. Fitted a fuel pressure gauge, a AutoMeter Pro Comp Ultra Lite (0-15psi) which has alarm settings, these can be set to give an indication of a blocking filter.

1a. 11/09/14. The alarm had been set the at 0.5psi since the install, recently went through the Sub Tank size thing with Muzz in the poll's section where I have drained both tanks twice and it looked like I had picked up some crap from the bottom of the tank, the current filter has 16,000k on it.

On hard acceleration it was going to 0psi and my cruise rate had dropped by just over 1psi, although the max before starting remained the same as the pressure forced itself through.

Changed the filter and now I'm back at 5.5psi on startup, dropping to 4.5psi when it self regulates, 3.75psi at idle and 2.5psi at cruise (18%TPS), on full pedal to the metal I'm at 1.2psi.

Interestingly it feels like it has a new spring in it's step at 2000rpm, when things happen slowly you don't always notice the difference, if I hadn't had the gauge to guide me to a change I may have been wondering in a few thousand K's why I had lost a bit of performance.

2. I have also fitted an Inertia Switch (and updated electrical schematic) to act as a fuel cut in the event of an accident, it has no power requirements or electrical connections, I have simply fitted it to the earth of the relay that controls the pump. The switch was picked up from a wrecked European vehicle, it takes quite a violent shake of the switch to cut the earth and stop the pump, seeing as mine has a good bypass system I am not worried about whether the pump stops on a rough track as it has no real effect on the vehicle, it will keep going, but I am not expecting that anyway. The switch has a reset button. The switch and button can be seen in the last pic.

Materials list:
Parts for lift pump connection:
2 x 3/8" barbed Y sections.
4 x 3/8" BSP x 3/8" straight male barbed fittings.
1 x 3/8" BSP male/female elbows.
1 x 3/8" BSP non return valve with viton seals.
1 x metre of 3/8" fuel hose.
12 x hose clips suit 3/8" fuel line.

Parts for primer switch and bleed point:
1 x 1/4" BSP female T.
1 x 1/4" BSP x 3/8" straight barbed fitting.
1 x 1/4" to 1/8" BSP reducing bush.
1 x 1/8" BSP taper plug.
1 x 1/8" BSP ball valve.
1 x 3 way On Off On switch.
1 x Narva 68044 relay with 87and 87a connections.
3m x 6mm wire back to the pump.

Parts for spill line and bleed point mod:
2 x 1/8 bsp x 1/4 barbed fittings, male.
2 x 1/8 bsp x 3/16 barbed fittings. male.
1 x 1/8 bsp T. Female. (into which go the 90 degree, 2 x 1/4 barbs, 1 x 3/16 barb).
1 x 1/8 bsp 90 degree, male to female.
1 x 1/8 bsp cap. (The cap goes on the final 3/16 barb which blocks the spill return to the pump)
5 x small hose clips.

More info can be found in;
Lift Pump Install (yes, yes another one)
Actual installation starts about page 11, previous was more research into actually how and what to look for.

Electrical schematic. EDIT, Please note, when wired this way from the wiper motor the pump does not come on with accessories, which my poor wording in the top right hand corner seems to indicate, it starts with ignition full on to "start".
Carter Wiring2.jpg

Frame drawing.
Pump Frame and Layout Schematic.jpg

Assembled frame with isolated Carter mount plate attached.
Pump Frame 4.jpg

Direct view of frame and protector plate.
Pump Frame 5.jpg

Pump frame from the rear with plenty of clearance for the panhard rod.
Pump Frame 6.jpg

What the original spill line setup looks like and what to move.
Spill Line Mod Layout.jpg

Completed spill line mod.
Spill line mod complete.jpg

Sealed connections
Pump Connection Waterproof.jpg

Bypass line in case of fuel pump failure.
Pump Bypass Line and One Way Valve.jpg

3 way pump switch allows us to run with ignition on/isolate/manually bypass ignition for bleeding through the valve shown after a filter change. The Inertia Switch shown beside the 3 way has the reset button on the top, it runs back and intercepts the relay earth wire.
P1090043.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 08-12-2014 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Update to wording 08/12/14
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  #11  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:04 PM
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Default Daytime Running Lights

When on a trip I always like to drive trips with my headlights on, but find that after I've stopped for a cup of coffee along the way I forget to turn them back on........

Bought a kit from JayCar, SL3419 around $90. Cut them into the ally bullbar as follows, kit is complete, you need nothing else. Wiring up the kit to instructions makes the Day Time Running Lights turn off automatically when the headlights/parkers are turned on, so fully compliant.

Scan of light schematic
DTDL Scan1.jpg


Marking out the light position and drilling the corners ready for cutting with a jigsaw. Allowed about 3mm all the way around for the addition of a plastic surround, I thought about using airline cut down the centre but finished up going with split electrical conduit and it looks good, filling all the gap.
DTRL1.jpg


Taped bar to prevent jigsaw from scratching the bar (worse than it already is )
DTRL2.jpg

Hole cut out and filed up., My bar has a ledge behind which I was able to drill and attach the light mounting too, others may need a small bracket made.
DTRL3.jpg

Finished article.
DTRL4.jpg

I know I'm biased but I like it, bright enough to see at a distance but not bright enough to dazzle.
DTRL5.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-07-2013 at 12:15 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:04 PM
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Default VNT Adjustment

Adjusting the VNT is actually quite easy it can be done start to finish in under 20 minutes, if you don't have a second battery it's even easier.

You will need a torch, a 10mm slight offset combination ring/open end spanner, an 8mm slight offset combination ring/open end spanner, a pair of long nosed pliers, a 2.5mm Allen key and around 400mm of 10lb fishing line. People will say you don't need the fishing line and that is basically true but when the clip slips out of the long nose pliers when you least expect it and the clip is never to be found again you will wish you had put the fishing line on.........

The adjustment should be no more than 1/2 turn down, I have tried many settings and I am currently back to 1/3 turn, this has given me a steady spoolup with no loss of performance and good fuel economy. A fast spoolup is detrimental to fuel eco and may be detrimental to turbo life in the longer term.

The pitch on the grub screw thread is 1mm so 1/3 of a turn is equal to 0.3mm (or .010") and that is significant.

Slip the fishing line through the back of the clip, you will need a torch to see the space it will go through, any thicker than 10lb line is hard to get through. Tie the line to the clip firmly.
1. Attach fishing line to retaining clip.JPG

With the long nose pliers, firmly grip the circlip, being careful not to cut the line and pull back quickly while hanging onto the fishing line with the other hand.
2.When the clip flis off you still have it.JPG

With a small offset 10mm combination ring openender you can get at the 2 set screws holding the top on the VNT controller, undo the back one first, so the front screw is holding the tension, if you do it the other way the back screw is very difficult to get the spanner on, small fingers are an advantage.
3. 2 x 10mm bolts under VNT head.JPG

You can get at the grub screw and nut by slipping the VNT diaphragm to the side once you have wriggled it off the shaft, but I prefer to take it right out and you can closely inspect for wear, just needs a little more wriggling to get it up through the hole in the bracket, just a few more seconds.
4. Slide VNT rod off retainer, wriggle.jpg

This is a good opportunity to check the condition of the rod bearing and how much wear is in the adjustment nut, I had about 1mm of play. You can also slip a bit of tube over the pipe and pull a vacuum and check for leaks, it should raise quickly and snap back to the bottom quickly.
DO NOT UNDO THE NUT, THIS IS FACTORY SET AND CAN CAUSE A LOT OF HEARTACHE.
6. End float.jpg

Clear view of the nut and grub screw.
7. Clear view of grub screw and lock nut.jpg

It is very easy to lose your place here if you remove the spanner, I suggest you put the spanner on as far to the left as you can, that way when you loosen the scew you do not have to take the spanner off to get another bite. Put the Allen key in the opposite way and wind the grub screw down you should be able to get almost a 1/3 of a turn without removing the key, if you do keep holding the spanner in the same position and re attach the Allen key for the second bite. Once adjusted you only need to hold the Allen key and turn the spanner back to the left, it does not need to be super tight.
8. 2.5mm allen key and 8mm spanner.JPG

I like to smear a bit of high temp grease on the bearings surface and around the rod nut to give a bit of lubrication, it will last a long time surprisingly. When reassembling do the front nut first to pull the VNT housing down a little to get the back nut on, this can be a bit tricky the first time you do it. then nip the front one and tighten the back then fully tighten the front, this minimises the risk of the housing jamming at an angle during tightening. Once reassembled push the clip back on remembering hold onto the fishing line and not cutting it with the pliers (yet).
9. Pushing clip back onto retainer.jpg

This pic shows the white paint on the VNT rod (the one that never gets adjusted) showing it is in the original position.
VNT rod 2.jpg

This brass piece is slip over for when I'm trialling VNT adjustments, the tag on the inside can be beaten down to a particular thickness for my trials, I drove around for months with this is at one stage while I was testing and changing spoolup rates with varying thickness's.
VNT adjustment test device2.jpg
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Domestic Violence Has No Excuse, Rugby League Players Are Not Above The Law.


Last edited by geeyoutoo; 27-07-2013 at 12:10 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:05 PM
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Default The effectiveness of the standard ZD30 air scoop

There is often controversy over the effectiveness of the Nissan scoop either standard or with things like bonnet protectors and rod holders and driving lights, so I did my wool test (a hang over from my racing days) as mine has all of the above and I'm quite satisfied it works fine at even low speeds.
Recently replaced the bonnet protector and the new one has a much steeper more pronounced upsweep which I thought could possibly have some effect on airflow into the intercooler scoop. Excellent flow considering. Test was carried out at 40Kph, 60Kph and finally 80Kph,

The CRD bonnet has a slight difference in profile just before the scoop mouth so may react a little different to this.

Nissan Patrol bonnet air flow characteristics - YouTube
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 26-07-2013 at 01:33 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:05 PM
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Default Cross Country InterCooler Install and information

The Cross Country InterCooler is a very large unit, it only just fits and care is needed to prevent parts of it rubbing on lines and pipes and also the fan underneath touching stray bolts etc, read instructions carefully and follow this and I'm sure you will be a happy camper at the end of it, cheers.

Edit: In pic 3 I have since fitted rivnuts/nutserts into the plate and ground them back to the length of a std nut, then reused the genuine bolts into them, I had to do a bit more reworking of the aircon line to make sure it missed the bolts in the event of some failure (if an engine mount s*** itself, etc).

The large CCIC and underslung fan in all its finery.
CCIC it's a Big Unit.jpg

Once you have removed the original IC make sure you remove anything the instruction sheet tells you or you could find damage down the track. Have a look at the last pic in this post of the throttle body, while your at this stage it may be a good time to clean the s*** out and it will be there.
Area under IC remove all bolts etc mentioned in instructions.jpg

When you install the brackets just check the IC lines up correctly, I had to slot one hole and bend a bracket a little, not everyone has to do it, strange. I used the original bolts from the bottom up to secure the back of the IC.
Bolts and things to be careful withP1020719.1.jpg


This was the hole I needed to slot to be comfortable with the fit, the bracket underneath a just gave it more of a Z appearance and all was fine.
CC mount plate, slight mod.jpg

I inserted captive nuts to hold the MAP sensor rather than the supplied nuts and bolts, just makes it a little easier to remove in future, one spanner instead of two required.
Front mount as supplied.jpg

Once ready to cut the rubber shroud, take a bit of time to mark it out, I left a lip down the drivers side to cover and seal the edge, remember you want all the ait to go throuigh the IC and not past the sides. Also make sure you remove the metal bracket that holds the rubber shroud against the bonnet, the rubber is still secure against the bonnet without it, I left mine on and found a mark on the IC from rubbing against the bracket under engine vibration, so I quickly removed it.
Cutting the rubber, remember to remove the metal frame that holds the rubber to the bonnet.jpg

The IC thermo switch is on the back of my IC they can be in a few different places, I picked up my switching power from the windscreen wiper motor.
P1020722.jpg

This is just some of the gunk that can be found in the throttle body, mine was a coating about 5-6mm thick, washed it out and with a small piece of dowel and a rag I removed as much as I could from the manifold without pushing any of it further down.
Throttle body 1.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 11-03-2017 at 08:12 AM.
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  #15  
Old 25-07-2013, 10:16 AM
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Default Optional HD Dawes Spring Fitting and Adjusting (also new Dawes has larger tail size)

An optional HD spring is now available for the Dawes, not originally available as it was thought to be too fiddly to adjust and actually a bit dangerous due to the high boost that can be achieved, therefore care is needed in setting up the spring. I ordered a new Dawes after hearing of a larger tail piece to trial and after discussions Darren sent along an optional spring to add to the trial. Disassembled the new Dawes and measured in comparison to the old. fitted the HD spring and wound the cap down until the ball stopped rattling when I shook it.

First drive I had 5psi flat stick, stopped and adjusted by 2 turns and then had 16 flat stick, stopped and went up by half a turn and now have 20psi flat stick (and there is still more adjustment left). have since fine tuned to 18.5psi.

My conclusion would be the optional spring is well worth getting for the extra 1-2$ it will cost, it gives all the adjustment we need and more without stretching, being a heavier spring it may just hold it's tune a little longer and better. Once you get near the top the adjustment becomes much finer to do so care is needed.

Also with the new Dawes I had very little in spiking (although it has never really been an issue with mine), at 18.5psi I get a spike to 20.5psi but 1psi of this is gauge needle bounce as it drops to 19.5psi very quickly then back to 18.5psi. it is all over in 1 - 2 seconds.

The new Dawes also comes with the vacuum end as a T, which makes it awkward to set up sometimes, with a good pair of pliers the T can be pulled out and pressed back in for the normal L shape.

EDIT: Video of pulling the Dawes apart, adjusting and re assembly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSkM5sG04i8

The original spring is the top one, alternate spring is the bottom, considerably stronger.
Exploded.jpg

For those who are interested in detail:
Ball is identical @ 7.96mm.
Tail piece is 4.5mm longer.
Std spring length 24mm.
Std length of optional spring is also 24mm.
The ID of the new tail piece is 4.6mm whereas the old one is 3.1mm.
Large Tailpiece.jpg

Depth of the top cap (to top of T piece) is 9.38mm
Head Section Measure.jpg

Spring sits 6.4mm above top cap with ball in place, meaning the cap must be screwed in by a minimum of 3mm before the cap contacts the spring even slightly. To make sure the spring has contacted give the Dawes a shake after assembly to see if you can hear the ball rattle. Both springs are 24mm long so this applies to both old and new.
P1080681.jpg

Dawes assembled with head T turned around (easy with pliers and a vice), HD spring and absolute minimum spring to ball contact.
Assembled.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 01-10-2013 at 10:57 AM.
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  #16  
Old 26-07-2013, 02:35 PM
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Default Barn Door Table

Table dimensions are 680 x 370 x 12mm with the backboard being 680 x 150 x 12mm. The wire is stainless steel cable with alluminium crimps (big fish wire trace crimps). Bunnings have stainless steel piano hinge in 1 metre lengths. All the wire joins and connections are shrink wrapped to negate any rattles or wear to upholstery from movement etc. The boards are held in place as described below using stainless steel screws and stainless cup washers.

After all the drilling, routing and sanding I gave it 6 coats of satin clear, am thinking of doing the back and sides of the table in a grey to match the interior, one day when I run out of other projects .

This is an old rivnut tool Ive had for over 40 years, the inserts are aluminium and 3/16" but they are easily tapped out to 5mm, I've got about 300 left so might as well use them.
1Rivnut tool.jpg

Marking out the door insert for attachment points, seeing as I have draws I had to make allowance for them which reduced the width of the table a bit.
2Marking out.JPG

Re inserted the panel and marked through to drill and fit the rivnuts, making sure they didn't interfere with anything else. The very observant may notice there are 6 screws in the back board but only 5 rivnuts.... that was because on the upper left hand side there was a hole in the door so I could not fit a rivnut and if 5 can't hold it up I should give the game away, the screw in the door is a stainless self tapper in a stainless cup washer.
3Rivnut to marks.jpg

As above.
4rivnut to marks.JPG

Fabricated aluminium plates and loop catches.
5plates & catches.JPG

Plates and Loops attached to the door through the rivnuts.
6holders secured.jpg

Supports attached to the side of the board, use long thin screws to minimise risk of screw pulling out, but remember you won't be sitting on it .
7holders secured.jpg

The Finished article.
8screwed to door.JPG

Hinge is slightly recessed to allow full fold-up of the board at a reduced thickness, it had to clear my draws.
9sunken hinge to help fold.JPG

What it looks like, have been toying with the idea of spraying it grey to match the interior... not sure.
10finished.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 29-07-2013 at 11:13 AM.
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  #17  
Old 27-07-2013, 10:32 AM
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Default Swirl Valve Disconnection

Swirl Valve Disconnection.
There has been a few threads and I have received quite a few PM's on the subject of swirl valve disconnection. With the throttle body still bolted to the engine and looking from the passenger side you see one single throat with a butterfly, this one does not get touched under any circumstances this is the main shut off valve for air supply to the engine.

The body then divides internally into 2 throats, the RH side has another butterfly and this one is the swirl valve, it's job has been to mix EGR at idle speeds and just above when the butterfly is shut forcing air down the LH side, the diaphragm is vacuum operated and the butterfly remains closed until 1250-1300rpm is reached, it then opens and remains open until you drop down in revs again.

I originally blocked the vacuum line and pushed it back on, I noticed a slight improvement in low rev take off, making it easier to take off in second, it felt smoother. At a later date I removed the body again and took out the butterfly (the next step would have been to remove the shaft and bloc the bearing ends), once assembled I noticed no further change so decided not to proceed any further.

Just a reminder as I have been asked about disconnecting the main butterfly, do not under any circumstances remove or block this valve.

This is the throttle body under the IC. Take no notice of the attachment on top of the body, this is just one of my water methanol injection points.
wm20 jet location.jpg


This is what mine looked like the first time I had it off and this was only 25-30,000k after my rebuild. This was about 5-6mm thick on the internal walls all the way back to the beginning of the separator wall.
Throttle body 1.jpg

Butterfly from the swirl valve removed, the throat closest to the firewall.
wm17 Removed butterfly.jpg

The diaphragm on the right is the one to block vacuum supply too, NOT the diaphragm on the left.
wm18 Jet alignment.jpg
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Last edited by geeyoutoo; 05-08-2013 at 11:29 PM.
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  #18  
Old 27-07-2013, 06:59 PM
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Default Water Injection Extension

After discussions with OldMav and having followed up with CoolingMist/Devils Own (who both said "we don't recommend it"), I've decided to give pre turbo WM injection a go on the old ZD30 DI. Not sure if any members have done this yet, haven't heard of any.

This will entail upgrading some of my existing DO system with CoolingMist controllers. Will be fitting the Coolingmist Learning Failsafe unit plus their progressive controller, just had to make sure they were compatible with what I had and CoolinMist say yes.

Placed the order request tonight. Have been thinking of it for some time (with a bit coaxing from OldMav) I was looking for an old turbo with flange but not going that way now, the nozzle will be placed around 170mm away from the turbo rotor just at the outer of the top bend in the air tube, may need to fabricate an alloy tube but not ruling out the possibility of adapting it into the rubber tube, there is a way.

Seeing as the turbo will be fully wound up before injection occurs the actual airspeed down the tube will ensure there is no way the highly misted spray will hit the side of the hose when injection occurs.

I will be using CoolingMist nozzles for pre turbo (purchasing a couple to mix and match) as they seem to have a better Um spray droplet size. I already have solenoids etc from my DO purchase list. I will retain part of the post turbo injection. The project will take time but I will take pics as I go, I also need reference pics of the Turbo rotor pre injection so I can do comparisons at intervals to ensure no damage is being done to the rotor.

Ahhhh, Another project........ was getting a bit bored.

Here's a pic of the existing hose showing the proposed location of the nozzle.
P1080734.1.jpg
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  #19  
Old 27-07-2013, 11:27 PM
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Wow!!

The attention to detail is phenominal and not to mention everything is tidy as. Nice rig mate.

Great write ups too...
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  #20  
Old 28-07-2013, 01:45 AM
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Great work Geeyoutoo.
You have done so many interesting modifications that I haven't (yet).

Watching the last one with interest. I have been looking at Cooling Mist for a while. What kit or parts mainly which controller and pre turbo nozzel size are you actually planning on getting.

I already have gas going into the rubber tube a bit lower down than that bend on the straight section. I'm not really using the gas since fitting a chip (five years ago).
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