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  #1  
Old 03-03-2008, 07:15 PM
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Default Body lift instructions

Hi guy`s, I`m just pondering on a 40mm body lift to get 35 inch rubber under the old girl. I`ve got a 2 inch lift kit and i think this should be enough, though I might have to trim the guards. Can somebody give me instructions on how to do the body lift, i.e. what has to be undone or move or lengthened to complete the job. I have only recently bought the GQ and have no experience with this sort of job. Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 04-03-2008, 10:08 AM
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Gday mate, im running a 2inch body lift and 3inch suspension lift and i fit my 35s with only a tiny bit of scrubbing...

The bodylift is simple if you have a decent trolley jack..a compressr/rattle gun makes the job a hell of alot easier too as the body bolts are sometimes a PITA to crack..

Basically you do one side at a time...loosen on side..then jack it up...so there is enough space for you to put the new body blocks in..then lower it down..put in longer bolts...these are normally supplied if you buy a bodylift kit...then you do the other side exactly the same...the only modification i had to make was the gate around my low range shifter...had to cut out a notch so that low range would go in and stay in..i was told id have to move radiator shrouds etc etc...but i didnt..all i did regarding the rad was loosen the bolts holding it in and slide it down as much as it could go which from memory was about an inch and a quarter...everything else was fine...if you arnt entirely sure or confident about doing it yourself..might be best to get someone who does know what they are doing to do it...saves you incase something (heaven forbid) goes wrong and people get hurt...

Alternatively...i think Truckster on here has a webpage and he lists instructions on how he did his..may be worth a look...or just use the good old fashioned search button

Jarryd
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  #3  
Old 04-03-2008, 04:35 PM
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I think this is the link your refering to.

http://www.gqpatrol.com/bodylift/index.htm
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Old 04-03-2008, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_mav
what an awesome set of instructions, and great site :P
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  #5  
Old 04-03-2008, 06:41 PM
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Cheers guys, thats just what I wanted. I`ll try this very soon. Can`t wait to put new rubber under the motor. I`m fed up with digging a third rut with the diff pumpkin.

Stuart
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:37 PM
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i dunno what you guys see in body lifts i personally rkn they are crapyou may need to in stall thermo fans instead of your older and better style fan clutch because it might hit the radiator and your body may move back and forward over time hoses and pipes electrical all have to be changed and gear sticks dont change as good as they should and then bumpers and bullbars have big gaps and look horrible then to correct you have to chop and change bumpers and bull bars

i would strongly advise you to put bigger suspension in or if you want it done fairly cheap use coil spacers they not that great but can be done in my experience body lifts arent good

when i hit a sand dune the bull bar moved back slightly and the body moved forard and stuffed mo bonnet and my grille fell out of shorty very bad
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:28 AM
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Each to their own but i dont mind the body lift..i owuldnt go anymore ten 3inch tho as thats starting to stress thigns a bit much and you do have to legnthen and re-0align things...

My bodylift was easy...havent had to use thermo fans as my clutch fan has mroe than enough room...none of the hoses are even close to being stretced..the only thing i did as i mentioned was modify the 4wd lever and move the bull bar and rear bar..which wasnt a problem as im getting a tube bar made up and a rear quarter chop done...i actually think its one of the better mods ive done..and so far it only cost me 350 bucks...
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Old 08-03-2008, 08:59 AM
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When doing the body lift, will the transfer case gearstick (4L 4H) need to be changed over to a longer one? if so what type of gear stick should i replace it with?
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Old 08-03-2008, 03:54 PM
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You can make it longe ri guess...all i ended up doing was cutting a notch out of the gate so that it would go into low range...off the top of my head i think i only needed to cut out about an inch an a bit? i used a cold chisel and a hammer...looks dont matter as it is coveredby the shifter boot when you put it back together...one thing you may want to consider though is getting some heat shield type material and stick it around the transmission tunnel as since i did mie alot of heat gets in...once i did this it is now sweet as no heat gets in

Jarryd
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  #10  
Old 08-03-2008, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GQ4X4
You can make it longe ri guess...all i ended up doing was cutting a notch out of the gate so that it would go into low range...off the top of my head i think i only needed to cut out about an inch an a bit? i used a cold chisel and a hammer...looks dont matter as it is coveredby the shifter boot when you put it back together...one thing you may want to consider though is getting some heat shield type material and stick it around the transmission tunnel as since i did mie alot of heat gets in...once i did this it is now sweet as no heat gets in

Jarryd
yea just cut a V in the floor, or remove the shifter, and get it 'adjusted'.
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Old 08-03-2008, 04:48 PM
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does any one know if its possible to just raise the rear . my swb sags at the back, looks sad. don't want to change springs because the standard ones work so well.
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  #12  
Old 08-03-2008, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sea safari
does any one know if its possible to just raise the rear . my swb sags at the back, looks sad.
Um.... no
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:08 PM
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i don't know how many point the body is fixed to the chassis, but just a thought that say 8, starting at the front use 0mm added then 20 then 40 then 60mm. tighten it all back up. ???
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:13 PM
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Why not put coil spacers in the rear? 30mm?

You would put masses of stress on different body mounts doing that.. they are only pi$$ weak floor pans which do have habits of cracking already.
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:19 PM
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ok. don't they fall out if the spring extends long?
i just thought of another idea, are long wheel base spring stronger?
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sea safari
ok. don't they fall out if the spring extends long?
i just thought of another idea, are long wheel base spring stronger?
Thought you didnt want to change springs? Why not just replace your suspension so the whole thing is level, smooth and comfortable if thats an option.
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  #17  
Old 08-03-2008, 09:26 PM
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You could try smaller wheels at the front ...................
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2008, 05:37 AM
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all swb sag at the back standard. and body blocks are obviously not a good thing, and i've been in safari's with after market tall springs and they bounce and jiggle and pick wheels off the floor when you go diagonal over banks. my standard safari keeps all 4 wheels on the ground, is a good comfortable ride, evn handles real good.so nissan got it right ish , so maybe the long wheel base springs have the travel and aren't stiff as a board and don't sag?
and phil28 thanks but i won't.
when i said not to change springs,i hadn't thought of lwb nissan ones(i think they'll be soft not sag)
no ones still said if they are taller though yet, they might be the same spring.
be a bugger to change them and its the same.
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:19 PM
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All springs sag with age. Its a case of specing the right spring for the application. Compromise is ride comfort vs heavy load carrying capability. The damper plays a very important role in controlling the bounce and jiggle. The heavier the rig, the more work the spring/damper has to do. Overload a light spring and it'll sag much quicker than a heavy weight spring, but the heavy spring will give a harsher ride. Match the spring / damper to the application, and - of course, dont buy cheapies ! Horses for Courses as they say.

My suggestion of smaller wheels SeaSafari was tongue in cheek !
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:44 PM
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thanks, and i do that
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