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  #21  
Old 26-07-2009, 07:41 PM
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i payed 600 cash... do it
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  #22  
Old 26-07-2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracteur Tom View Post
I wondered how long it would take before the reality of this job was posted up. As said, its a swine, even with the proper gear. Whats 400 of your money worth to you ? Its sounds a good deal to me.

Funny how a simple clutch change ends up with the flywheel machining, new rear seal and sump gasket ( you need to replace this to do the seal properly). Still, if you've removed the box or engine yourself, you'll realise its money and time well spent. dont for get a new spigot bearing and release bearing too !


every clutch job should have the flywheel machined anyway. there are two type of rear main seal, on is a seal only and can be changed 'properly' with out removing the seal housing.
the other type the seal is part of the seal housing, it can be change with the sump on or off.
Attention needs to be paid to preparing and resealing the rear section of sump, but it can be done with out leaks. the later TD42s don't even have a sump gasket.
release bearing come in the clutch kit and spigot/pilot bearing fall into the same catagory as flywheel machining. You should also do the front seal on the gearbox. and replace/ reco the clutch hydraulics.

It is a ***** of a job though. the gear box NEVER comes out with out a fight (aside from body lift trucks) there are people who claim they can do quick and easy, i've never seen anyone prove they can.
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  #23  
Old 28-07-2009, 12:19 AM
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Did mine today. Me and two mates one of which is a mechanic. Tb42 long wheel base, standard suspension and no body lift. Car up on axle stands. Removed rear tail shaft, disconnected front tail shaft from diff only. Removed both shift leavers and took out all the bell housing bolts. Disconnected the cross member from the chassis but left it connected to the gearbox. Had a trolley jack positioned just behind the cross member and a screw adjustable axle stand just behind the bell housing. At first it was difficult to separate the bell housing from the engine. It seems that it had been stuck on with silicone or something. Once we got it cracked loose we could move back slightly then drop the rear end slightly and so on. We had to tap the axle stand along the ground as we went. As we did this (by pure luck) the box started tilting down on the drivers side - just as it needed to. Once the input shaft was clear we could start to drop the front down as well. Managed to get the thing fully down and back without too many dramas. We didn't have to disconnect the handbrake cable. We just pushed the box back as far as it would let us.
Putting the gear box back in was pretty much a reversal of the same procedure. We did have to move the back of the box side to side to help in getting it to move forward. The final lifting of the bell housing (last inch or so) was done by hand to try to get some sort of feel. Once again not really too much trouble.
The only problem we had was discovered when I tried to start the engine. A brass fitting where the LPG line went into the regulator had been snapped off when the top of the engine leaned towards the firewall. Oh-well, I'll fix that tomorrow, I'm running on petrol for now.

I've done a couple of other clutches by myself before and I thought about doing this one myself. I'm glad I didn't. With my mechanic mate and one other mate the job was relatively simple. I'd have struggled by myself. The other clutches I've done were little gearboxes on 4 cylinder Japanese cars. To put the gearbox back you simply got underneath it and pushed it up. Not so the Patrol. It really is a small truck under there.
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  #24  
Old 28-07-2009, 01:02 AM
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Screw the trans jacks etc. This is how I do it: Disconnect battery,
Loosen engine mount bolts, remove starter motor & slave cyl, remove rear tailshaft, remove front section of exhaust, remove drivers foot rest, remove passenger front seat, remove gearshift/tfer lever shroud and levers, disconnect wiring on g/box, disconnect speedo cable, disconnect transbrake cable at lever, trolley jack under back of g/box, remove crossmember, let gearbox down on jack until rocker cover almost touches firewall, put right thickness softwood between sump and tie rod, put engine crane thru open front door and sling up to gearbox and take up the weight, remove bellhousing bolts except bottom two, remove jack and crossmember, lower box with engine crane until sump just rests on softwood, remove bottom two bellhousing bolts, cut through bellhousing seal with a scraper, push Patrol forward lowering box a bit a couple of times until input shaft is clear of pressure plate, lower box to the ground with the engine crane.
Dont have to rotate box, it's not a fight, just methodical and not rushed. Have to say it was the easiest gearbox swap I'd ever done but certainly not the quickest.
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  #25  
Old 28-07-2009, 02:02 PM
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this proves there's more than one way to skin a cat, will be at the workshop in the morning have decided to pay the mechanic to do this job but am his TA for the day so will be cutting the cost a bit by this, will probably spin a couple of filters for him too while the flywheel is out getting machined.

Thanks all for your input and advice, with all these tips i'm pretty sure i could do the job but since i have some coin available i'm going to let the mechanic take the lead and be greatful. That said looks like i will be doing the bulk of the work so will try and take some pics and post them up.

Again THANKS! for all the useful info.
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  #26  
Old 28-07-2009, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davess View Post
this proves there's more than one way to skin a cat, will be at the workshop in the morning have decided to pay the mechanic to do this job but am his TA for the day so will be cutting the cost a bit by this, will probably spin a couple of filters for him too while the flywheel is out getting machined.

Thanks all for your input and advice, with all these tips i'm pretty sure i could do the job but since i have some coin available i'm going to let the mechanic take the lead and be greatful. That said looks like i will be doing the bulk of the work so will try and take some pics and post them up.

Again THANKS! for all the useful info.
You wont regret it, and in the work shop environment even if you are doning the bulk of the work it is all good experience with support if required.
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  #27  
Old 29-07-2009, 08:15 PM
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in and done! all up and including machining the fly wheel and a new spigot bearing it cost me $350 and about 6 hours + $350 for the clutch. WOW what a PITA job, glad that's a once every 5 year special.

Again thanks all for the tips and hints.
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  #28  
Old 29-07-2009, 09:49 PM
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Guys, do you silicon the bellhousing and engine together or just the starter or non at all ?

Seem to remember the Nissan manual calls for silicon all around ?

Cheers

TT
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  #29  
Old 29-07-2009, 10:35 PM
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yeah no, didn't silicon anyting.... fingers crossed that won't come back to bite me on the ass.
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  #30  
Old 29-07-2009, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davess View Post
yeah no, didn't silicon anyting.... fingers crossed that won't come back to bite me on the ass.
Sorry to tell you but it definitely will if you drive through water or mud soup.
Quote:
Guys, do you silicon the bellhousing and engine together or just the starter or non at all ?

Seem to remember the Nissan manual calls for silicon all around ?

Cheers

TT
It does and for a good obvious reason. Clutches dont like water
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