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  #1  
Old 22-08-2010, 07:45 AM
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Default extra coolant exit rd28t

Hi,

I've heard that the rd28t can be made more reliable if the cylinderhead gets an extra coolant exit at the rear waterplug.

How exactly is this done and do any of you have any experience with this?

Shouldn't connecting the heaterhose from the head to the coolant return pipe (runs along side the block) already be an improvement in cooling cyl# 5 and 6?
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2014, 04:49 AM
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I`m just dealing with the same issue.
I think it`s deficiency is the main reason for blowing gaskets and heads.
Fact is : It cant be done if the head is on the car. Work in progress. Stay tuned
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2014, 11:42 AM
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subbed and pad.....
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  #4  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:15 AM
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RD28T Cooling improvement :

Done.



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Old 08-02-2014, 08:37 AM
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Is this first test or proven? Looks good. Did you drill and tap the head? New head?
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:06 AM
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Yep this is the first test..
New head.
There is a freeze plug. Removed it and threaded the hole.
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Old 23-09-2014, 08:48 AM
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Interesting, and seen similar in spanish forum as well.
Any news on the subject? Does the engine runs well? have you taken any temp readings to support the theory?
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Old 28-09-2014, 10:13 PM
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This is sweet man. How do I bookmark this thread for when I start rebuilding my next rd28t.
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Old 13-04-2015, 09:38 AM
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So at the end of September last year I changed the head (5th cracked) and convinced on the many positive posts read on Spanish and Portuguese forums (they race a lot of MK260 and GQ with RD28T), I made the mod to the new head.
Machining guy was positive also, saying that based on the coolant flows, moving the heather port from side to back of head, can only benefit the head and had no drawbacks he could think of.
I have to say that to date it works perfect, heather gets warm quickly, sign that flew is correct,.
There's no way to see from outside the difference, you could need thermocouples on each cylinder to see the difference before and after.
I can only say I feel confident this is a good mod to improve reliability of our weak heads.
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Old 18-04-2015, 12:23 AM
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At what point after 400k km should I begin to worry.
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Old 22-04-2015, 11:52 PM
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You should never worry snail. You'll probably just get lucky and go well over the 500k mark
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Old 23-04-2015, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Red Snail View Post
At what point after 400k km should I begin to worry.
As BigColGQ said, you are very lucky sir!
There's not many RD28T owners I know that have never changed a cracked head, and some have instead a sadly long list of cracked heads.
Obviously there's a ton of variables involved apart from mere luck.
Not all heads came from the same factory.
Even heads from the same came from different melting pots, and it's impossible for the final user to know if the quality of the raw melted alloy changed from pot to pot, as there's for sure a production tolerance.
Then there are assembling differences (bolts gaskets and how they were torqued) and finally the driver, responsible for the right foot and for many non stock modifications that can influence how hard an engine will work in a given application.
You've been lucky, many of us not.

As far as my modified head, still running good and all temps are ok, both speeding 130km/h on the highway or thrashing some mud in the weekends.
On Foropatrol forum there was a thread (para que no pete culata) from a presumably mechanich guy which said he installed termocouples before and after the cooling mod to see the difference. He stated before the mod the termocouples showed temps in the 95C range for the cylinders 1 to 4 and much higher 100-104C for cylinders 5 and 6. (a ten degree difference in the last two cylinders is a good explanation for cracked heads)
After the 6th cylinder water outlet mod (and blocking with a plug the stock 4th cylinder outlet) the temperature of the cylinders were now all in a similar range, evenly growing from 94C 1st cyl to 97C 6th cyl. Much less thermal stress for the head.

As final user (driver) one cannot really tell from outside if the cooling mod is making a difference or not, because the stock temp gauge reads the temp near the 4th cyl, in a location where it's not affected from the cooling mod. But for sure the last two cylinders now works cooler, and the improved coolant flow on 5th and 6th "should" also prevent formation of hot spots (vapour).
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  #13  
Old 23-04-2015, 07:20 PM
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This is my head, on 25/10/2014 just before reassembly

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Old 25-04-2015, 03:16 AM
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Please explain where the new hose from the new port is connected to? Thanks.
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Old 25-04-2015, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatDog View Post
Please explain where the new hose from the new port is connected to? Thanks.
Same hose as the old port is connected to from what I can see. If you look in the picture alexfromitaly posted, between the cylinders 5 & 4 (2nd and 3rd from camera respectively), there is a blanking plug fitted which I believe is where the factory coolant port is. So just hook up the new barbed fitting to the old hose (you may need to modify/replace the hose to suit its new path).
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Old 19-02-2016, 10:46 PM
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Following on from this thread can anyone that has done this share the rear welsh plug hole diameter and/or fittings used please? Any other information that might be valuable too appreciated. Thanks. About to take this on.
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Old 21-02-2016, 09:16 PM
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What metal the new nut is made of? Bronze, copper?
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Old 23-02-2016, 07:02 AM
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There is a guy overhere in Holland who modifys the RD28 heads in a different way and gives unlimited warrenty on cracking between cilinders. I have seen his work, very nice. He also makes cam plates for GU 2.8 fuel pumps.
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  #19  
Old 15-03-2016, 08:45 AM
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All required fittings were from common piping stuff. Same as used in house applications.
If memory serves right, the thread tapped on the welch plug hole was 1" unc, there's a reduction female 1"to 3/4" and the barbed 90 degree is 3/4" too. The plug to close the stock side exit also 3/4"unc.
To date the engine runs well, both on highway and offroading.
Cheers
Alessandro
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Old 19-03-2016, 11:57 AM
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Interesting read, I installed thermocouples and can confirm the temp difference, I did not do the mod to the head. One day not long after a full engine rebuild I saw temps of 100c from the rear cyl head right near no 6 cyl. I have an alarm so pulled over and gave time to cool down.

My solution came from reading everything I could on airflow or lack of in my case. I removed the crap new 3 core radiator, installed jap good quality 2 core alloy radiator, taped up gaps on top of the radiator with alloy tape and finally fitted a lower spoiler to the chassis under the steer damper to encourage low air pressure under the car, hence encourage more flow through the radiator and intercooler. Not matter how hard or fast I go she doesn't get over 93c on no 6 cylinder in ambient temps of 40c highway or tracks.

If I had my time again I would have done the mod for even more insurance against the dreaded overheating, thats for sure.
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