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  #1  
Old 31-05-2009, 07:30 PM
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Default GQ clutch problem

Hi there all,
Ive got at 92 GQ ute, 4.2 deisel, I have just replaced the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. I have tried bleeding the system at the master and the slave plus at the left hand gaurd. This model has the vacume pump on the back of the alternater. Have vacume at the clutch servo unit, but when i start the ute up and goto select first gear it will not engage unless I pump the clutch, then it will go in but if I leave it 5 seconds and press the clutch and try again it still wont select unless I pump the clutch 2 times. Ive gone through the gregory's service manual and still no further adavanced.
Hope some one can help me out.

thanks Geoff
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Old 31-05-2009, 07:47 PM
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More bleed, must have some air in there somewhere, did you replace the booster?
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Old 31-05-2009, 07:56 PM
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No I didnt replace the booster, just the master and slave
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Old 31-05-2009, 08:41 PM
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Had exactly the same problem after changing slave, We bled and bled and bled from every nipple we could find, couldnt get a gear at all, ended up getting a mobile mech around who tried for ages with no luck,
He came back in the morning with a suction pump to pull the fluid through, got enough to get first just,
Drove it down to a clutch specialist who had a pressure sucking thingy designed for the crap patrol design.

You have done well if you managed to get a bit of pedal.

It will be air for sure, ring a clutch specialist and he will no dought say ahhh the old patrol clutch hey, they suck to bleed,
Mine has been fine since it was done.

Good Luck mate
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Old 31-05-2009, 09:26 PM
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thanks for that kaybee, ill give it one more go and if no luck ill resort to the brake and clutch guys, im just trying to save a dollar where I can. they certainly know how to charge.

thanks mate
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Old 31-05-2009, 10:04 PM
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Try filling a squeesy bottle with b/fluid,push it onto the open SLAVE nipple, open the master cyl nipple and put a drain hose on it and force the fluid back thru the slave and out the master nipple, it can sometimes get you out of trouble. When bleeding with the pedal, only push it in about 1/3 and not to the floor and close the bleeder before letting the pedal back.
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Old 31-05-2009, 10:16 PM
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try disconnecting your clutch booster vacuum line and go for a drive, pedal will be slightly heavier.
sounds like a booster problem to me as mine also did the same thing yours is.
if this doesnt work, bleed clutch at the slave - then the engine bay - then the slave again..
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:16 AM
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I used to bleed the clutch in my old Peugeot by running a line from the nearest brake caliper to the slave and pumping the brakes. Worked like a charm, but of course you have to watch the 2 levels...
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:29 PM
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thanks for your help there everyone, I now have it back on the road, it had a lot of air in the line which needed the line to be sucked to get the air out.
Pumping and bleeding the clutch was not helping one bit. Main thing is, it going and im mobile. Thanks all for all your comments thats why we join these forums so we all can help each other out with our problems.

Cheers and safe 4wding.
Geoff
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:41 AM
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I appreciate you ignoring our phone calls regarding the DODGY ITEM YOU LIED TO US IN ORDER TO SELL, Geoff.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:48 AM
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thats a pretty big claim to make on a public forum. lies ay? maybe he didnt know. private message is more tasteful next time u wanna attack someone
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:52 AM
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oh dear,
a public lashing
kimngeoff,
when doin a clutch ,its always handy to pre bleed the master cylinder and slave cylinder before you fit them up,that saves ALOT of hassles when bleeding
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:37 PM
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Hi guys i now you have it fixed now but this is my 2 cent my dad had the same problem too the patrol have a ****ty clutch system to fix it we used 20m syringe with fluid in it and pushed the fluid from the slave nipple back up to the master and worked a treat this is to help other people with the same problem
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