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  #1  
Old 09-01-2017, 12:16 PM
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Default Td42 head rebuild kit options?

Hi guys, my unopened silver top (500k already) is due for a head rebuild as coolant is leaking outwards from the gasket at where the thermostat is.

Not smoking so I guess a head rebuilt is good enough?

I have a few brand options: eristic and vrs from Taiwan, Permaseal from repco but they don't say where it is made?

Any suggestions? Thanks



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  #2  
Old 09-01-2017, 12:33 PM
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Just fix the thermostat gasket.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Sméagol View Post
Just fix the thermostat gasket.
No it is from the head gasket, see red circle in photo . The thermostat gasket is new.

Or just tighten up the head bolt as I have heard stories that Na td42 has less head bolt torque?






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Old 09-01-2017, 12:53 PM
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I can see small bubbles coming out from there when running!

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Old 09-01-2017, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by neixian View Post
I can see small bubbles coming out from there when running!

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You can try replacing the head gasket, but probably reconditioning the head might be a good idea as well.
What is the condition of the bottom end?
Complete engine rebuild might be a good idea with that many kilometers.
It can give you years of peace of mind, assuming you wanna keep the vehicle for a while.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:22 PM
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You're sure it's from the head gasket and not between the block and timing backing plate?
I've just fixed mine and it was the backing plate. Why not give it a good wire brush and sprinkle some talc there to see where it starts.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
You can try replacing the head gasket, but probably reconditioning the head might be a good idea as well.
What is the condition of the bottom end?
Complete engine rebuild might be a good idea with that many kilometers.
It can give you years of peace of mind, assuming you wanna keep the vehicle for a while.
Thanks for the idea. How do I tell of the bottom end condition? All I know is that it doesn't smoke and fuel economy is good, 13L per 100km or so when fully loaded with gear on roof rack and in cargo area.

145L run the Simpson desert without touching fuel cans.

Btw, Dom, I drove from Sydney to Melbourne safely without aircon and only slightly overheat climbing hills at 110kph.



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Old 09-01-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JFF45 View Post
You're sure it's from the head gasket and not between the block and timing backing plate?
I've just fixed mine and it was the backing plate. Why not give it a good wire brush and sprinkle some talc there to see where it starts.
100% as I can see bubbles coming out from gasket at first cylinder.

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  #9  
Old 09-01-2017, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neixian View Post
Thanks for the idea. How do I tell of the bottom end condition? All I know is that it doesn't smoke and fuel economy is good, 13L per 100km or so when fully loaded with gear on roof rack and in cargo area.

145L run the Simpson desert without touching fuel cans.

Btw, Dom, I drove from Sydney to Melbourne safely without aircon and only slightly overheat climbing hills at 110kph.



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Pull the head out and have a good close look at where the water's leaking from.
Closely examine the leaking areas of the head gasket and the cylinder head.
Then give the bottom of the head gasket a good clean see if there're any cracks near
the matching leaking areas of the head gasket.

Then you can replace the head gasket and see how it goes or if you prefer get the head checked for warpage & get it pressure tested.
I'm not a big fan of machining cylinder heads with that many kilometers on the bottom end, so if possible I would avoid it, unless I wanna rebuild the bottom end as well.

From what I've heard from you so far, the bottom end appears ok(no oil burning, no smoke, right?).
You can check the valves and valve seats for wear and grind them with grinding paste to improve the valve seat.
BTW, you can check the cylinder head for warpage using long steel ruler & a feeler gauge.
Head need to be clean before you do that though. If there's no warpage, i would leave it.
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2017, 05:11 PM
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Also check the wall of the cylinders and the crown of the pistons for excessive carbon.

Doing a compression test can give a good idea on whether compression is still good on some cylinders.
If that's the case, the bottom end should be good.
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  #11  
Old 10-01-2017, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
Pull the head out and have a good close look at where the water's leaking from.
Closely examine the leaking areas of the head gasket and the cylinder head.
Then give the bottom of the head gasket a good clean see if there're any cracks near
the matching leaking areas of the head gasket.

Then you can replace the head gasket and see how it goes or if you prefer get the head checked for warpage & get it pressure tested.
I'm not a big fan of machining cylinder heads with that many kilometers on the bottom end, so if possible I would avoid it, unless I wanna rebuild the bottom end as well.

From what I've heard from you so far, the bottom end appears ok(no oil burning, no smoke, right?).
You can check the valves and valve seats for wear and grind them with grinding paste to improve the valve seat.
BTW, you can check the cylinder head for warpage using long steel ruler & a feeler gauge.
Head need to be clean before you do that though. If there's no warpage, i would leave it.
Yeah, everything looks good except the gasket.

I have talked to a mechanic and Engines Australia, they are all suspecting a blown gasket. And suggest me not buy a kit but parts needed.

So gasket as it is, but what about the material? I have option like iron ones and normal ones, with iron ones a bit more pricy.

And I have also tighten up the first cylinder head bolt a bit for the moment, indeed the torque is out of specs. It seems there are less bubbles coming out now. Maybe stop leak coolant addictive too before I replace the gasket?



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Old 10-01-2017, 09:46 AM
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I pulled the head off my TD yesterday as there was a little bit of oil weeping out between the head and the block (no coolant usage or bubbles). I am planning on using the genuine Nissan head gasket.

Have had good success using genuine gaskets for other things in the past so will stick with genuine for the head gasket too.

I was really surprised at how little effort it took to crack the head bolts lose with a fairly small 1/2" breaker bar....
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
You can check the valves and valve seats for wear and grind them with grinding paste to improve the valve seat.
How would you go about doing this at home or is it something only a machine shop could do?
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:33 AM
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How would you go about doing this at home or is it something only a machine shop could do?
Yes certainly, you can do it at home. I did mine manually by hand, but there's a quicker way of doing it with a piece of vacuum hose & an electric drill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrKINFBsQD8
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:48 AM
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Maybe stop leak coolant addictive too before I replace the gasket?
Bad idea, especially in a diesel engine.
Some of the crap can go into every nook & cranny, & give you lot of trouble when you need to fix it properly.
It's a ok to put a good coolant additive to get the vehicle home when the vehicle is stuck in the middle on nowhere.
Since you are home now, there's no reason to make things worse for you in few days, few weeks or few months by adding coolant additives.

If you tighten the head bolts, you need to make sure you do it according to specs in correct order. If you tighten one or two bolts out of specs with each other, the head might bend or even crack.

Pull the head out and fix it properly. It's not too hard to replace the head gasket on it's own.
Do the compression test to find out whether every cylinder shows the same compression or whether they are different.
It doesn't cost that much to get a cylinder head pressure tested, in case you wanna take it to a machine shop to get it tested for cracks.

Use the guide below to check the valve seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_gEp0NEybQ

Fella talks bit too much about the "god" in some of his videos, so go easy on him.
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Last edited by dom14; 10-01-2017 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:57 AM
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So gasket as it is, but what about the material? I have option like iron ones and normal ones, with iron ones a bit more pricy.
Since yours is a standard NA engine, I would go with the standard head gasket.
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Old 10-01-2017, 11:00 AM
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I was really surprised at how little effort it took to crack the head bolts lose with a fairly small 1/2" breaker bar....
Yeah, that's probably a good indication the head gasket had become weaker.
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Old 10-01-2017, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
Bad idea, especially in a diesel engine.
Some of the crap can go into every nook & cranny, & give you lot of trouble when you need to fix it properly.
It's a ok to put a good coolant additive to get the vehicle home when the vehicle is stuck in the middle on nowhere.
Since you are home now, there's no reason to make things worse for you in few days, few weeks or few months by adding coolant additives.

If you tighten the head bolts, you need to make sure you do it according to specs in correct order. If you tighten one or two bolts out of specs with each other, the head might bend or even crack.

Pull the head out and fix it properly. It's not too hard to replace the head gasket on it's own.
Do the compression test to find out whether every cylinder shows the same compression or whether they are different.
It doesn't cost that much to get a cylinder head pressure tested, in case you wanna take it to a machine shop to get it tested for cracks.

Use the guide below to check the valve seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_gEp0NEybQ

Fella talks bit too much about the "god" in some of his videos, so go easy on him.
Great info Dom.

I was checking the specs yesterday and I found the first one was indeed not up to specs so I tighten it up a bit, and others slightly.

Had I known this earlier, I wouldn't do it.

Now it seems the best to do a head rebuild, with head machined, valves grinded carbon residue removed and etc.

Inclide to order kit rather than separate parts. Hopefully will work out.

Btw, mine is Na td42 with a Schwitzer turbo and w2a intercooler on it, better order turbo kit ?

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Old 10-01-2017, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14 View Post
You can try replacing the head gasket, but probably reconditioning the head might be a good idea as well.
What is the condition of the bottom end?
Complete engine rebuild might be a good idea with that many kilometers.
It can give you years of peace of mind, assuming you wanna keep the vehicle for a while.
or stuff the engine with rebuild
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:17 PM
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re builds for one reason or another have a pretty poor succes rate..
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