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  #21  
Old 10-01-2017, 08:30 PM
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re builds for one reason or another have a pretty poor succes rate..
I am only rebuilding the head. Shouldn't be too hard I guess?
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  #22  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:43 PM
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Great info Dom.

I was checking the specs yesterday and I found the first one was indeed not up to specs so I tighten it up a bit, and others slightly.

Had I known this earlier, I wouldn't do it.

Now it seems the best to do a head rebuild, with head machined, valves grinded carbon residue removed and etc.

Inclide to order kit rather than separate parts. Hopefully will work out.

Btw, mine is Na td42 with a Schwitzer turbo and w2a intercooler on it, better order turbo kit ?

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Sorry mate. I don't know much about turbos. If yours is a turbo, I reckon it's better to stick with turbo compatible parts including the head gasket.

So, yes, if your is a turbo, then you need a turbo compatible rebuild kit. And sure, the gasket is definitely bit dear with turbo.(MLS head gasket I'm guessing?).

So, your TD42 is no longer NA(naturally aspirated) if it has a turbo charger & intercooler in it.
Pay more attention to the details and take your time if you're rebuilding it on your own with a turbo compatible rebuild kit. Make sure the bottom end is in good condition before you pour money into the head rebuild.
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  #23  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:45 PM
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I am only rebuilding the head. Shouldn't be too hard I guess?
It shouldn't be, but if you're planning to get it done professionally in a machine shop, it might worth considering getting a change over reconditioned head. Check ebay.
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  #24  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by simcoe View Post
re builds for one reason or another have a pretty poor succes rate..
In turbo diesel engine, you mean?
I'm guessing you mean the cylinder head only rebuild?
Obviously the bottom end has to be good for a worthwhile cylinder head rebuild.
But, that's true for pety & lpg as well.
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  #25  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:57 PM
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BTW, AFAIK, since yours is a turbo unit, you may need to get the engine professionally fine tuned after a cylinder head rebuild.
I think it's a sure case with pety/lpg engines, is it not?
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  #26  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:30 PM
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Thanks again, Dom, very appreciated.

I believed the body is in excellent condition, no blow-by, no noise, no smoke, good power, and oil looks fine between changes.

But only an experienced TD42 mechanic can tell...

I had a 390K TD42 last year, it sounded very good, but unfortunately, I don't believe that one was a lot better, so I sold it, sigh...

I should have kept it, but I also have two SD33T Patrol MK/MQ to build up...

Too many Patrols...
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  #27  
Old 11-01-2017, 03:59 AM
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I am only rebuilding the head. Shouldn't be too hard I guess?
Sorry yeah I meant engine rebuilds.
Heads have no issues.
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by neixian View Post
I am only rebuilding the head. Shouldn't be too hard I guess?
Its not. As long as you take your time, pay attention to what goes where and lay everything out on a bench in the order it came off there isn't that much to them really!

One thing though, soak the crap out of the exhaust manifold nuts a few days before you start to remove them with a good penetrating oil or a mixture of ATF and acetone to losen them up. Snapping a stud off in the head would be a pain.
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2017, 03:07 PM
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I have ordered a genuine full engine rebuild kit. As I might upgrade the turbo to td05 and fuel pump to 11mm boost compensated one. Look forward to its arrival. 😎

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  #30  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by neixian View Post
Thanks again, Dom, very appreciated.

I believed the body is in excellent condition, no blow-by, no noise, no smoke, good power, and oil looks fine between changes.

But only an experienced TD42 mechanic can tell...

I had a 390K TD42 last year, it sounded very good, but unfortunately, I don't believe that one was a lot better, so I sold it, sigh...

I should have kept it, but I also have two SD33T Patrol MK/MQ to build up...

Too many Patrols...
Mate, you're a collector of Patrols aren't ya?
Yeah, love to have at least couple of Patrols to experiment with different stuff, but I only
have room for one.

BTW, it's good you brought up blow-by. It completely slipped my mind but no excuse, 'cos I drive a unit with bit of blow-by(RB30).
If no blow-by, no smoking, no excessive soot build up, no oil burning or loss, and compression is good, then it's reasonable to assume the engine is still in good nick for a top end rebuild.

You can also to do a leak down test for extra peace of mind. All the gear for these tests are usually cheap to buy, just slightly dearer for diesel ones 'cos of higher compression range, but still cheap.

Gotta come and see your collection sometime soon mate.
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  #31  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by brycegq View Post
Its not. As long as you take your time, pay attention to what goes where and lay everything out on a bench in the order it came off there isn't that much to them really!

One thing though, soak the crap out of the exhaust manifold nuts a few days before you start to remove them with a good penetrating oil or a mixture of ATF and acetone to losen them up. Snapping a stud off in the head would be a pain.
Yeah, It's absolute PITA once you break a stud or a bolt on exhaust side.
I've done it with exhaust bolts/studs & exhaust manifold flange.
It was a real PITA 'cos I had to drill and remove bits and pieces of a bolt that broke a piece inside the manifold flange. Then I had to re-tap it as well. For the broken ones on the exhaust side of the cylinder head, I used a combination of helicoil & tapping to a bigger size.
Helicoil is a bad idea for bolts 'cos they can come out and ruin the hole, causing everything to start from scratch on repairing the damaged thread/hole. It should only be used with studs on cylinder head(or anything else for that matter).

The best approach IMO is that combined with your advice above, to make sure to undo the bolts slowly with in and out motion, patiently.

It's also a damn good idea to replace any exhaust manifold bolts with studs.
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  #32  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:26 PM
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I have ordered a genuine full engine rebuild kit. As I might upgrade the turbo to td05 and fuel pump to 11mm boost compensated one. Look forward to its arrival. 😎
k
Cool approach. Since a rebuild is intended for long term use, it's better to get as better parts as you can afford. It's money well spent in the long run.
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  #33  
Old 11-01-2017, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
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Mate, you're a collector of Patrols aren't ya?
Yeah, love to have at least couple of Patrols to experiment with different stuff, but I only
have room for one.

BTW, it's good you brought up blow-by. It completely slipped my mind but no excuse, 'cos I drive a unit with bit of blow-by(RB30).
If no blow-by, no smoking, no excessive soot build up, no oil burning or loss, and compression is good, then it's reasonable to assume the engine is still in good nick for a top end rebuild.

You can also to do a leak down test for extra peace of mind. All the gear for these tests are usually cheap to buy, just slightly dearer for diesel ones 'cos of higher compression range, but still cheap.

Gotta come and see your collection sometime soon mate.
You are very welcome to have a look, Dom.

I will make sure I have plenty of bottles in my fridge.

I have had 3 gq, 3 mq/Mk so far. I used 2 gq as donors to build up my current one. I am building up a Mk at the momen, possibly using another mq as parts but I have found I don't need much.

Just getting rid of rust and make a Ute out of it that is all.

One of my friend, with my help, bought a gu, as he is not a fan of old cars. Then he rolled it on birdsville track and we bought two blown engine Gus to play with.

Yep, I am sort of a patrol fan I guess. And I am hoping to drive the oldest patrol to cross Simpson desert, maybe at the 60th anniversary of first G60 crossing?

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  #34  
Old 11-01-2017, 07:14 PM
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Checking eBay for leak down test. No diesel version? Can I just buy any one?

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Old 11-01-2017, 08:31 PM
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Checking eBay for leak down test. No diesel version? Can I just buy any one?

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Sorry mate, normal one with up to 100psi scale will do.(I got confused with the diesel compression tester which is bit dearer 'cos of the higher compression gauge).
Because you're giving that pressure and holding it inside the combustion chamber while it stays on TDC, it's roughly equivalent to the sudden high compression of the combustion chamber during the compression strokes.
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  #36  
Old 11-01-2017, 08:38 PM
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You are very welcome to have a look, Dom.

I will make sure I have plenty of bottles in my fridge.

I have had 3 gq, 3 mq/Mk so far. I used 2 gq as donors to build up my current one. I am building up a Mk at the momen, possibly using another mq as parts but I have found I don't need much.

Just getting rid of rust and make a Ute out of it that is all.

One of my friend, with my help, bought a gu, as he is not a fan of old cars. Then he rolled it on birdsville track and we bought two blown engine Gus to play with.

Yep, I am sort of a patrol fan I guess. And I am hoping to drive the oldest patrol to cross Simpson desert, maybe at the 60th anniversary of first G60 crossing?

Sent from my HUAWEI MT7-TL10 using Tapatalk
Yeah mate, I envy ya.
It's my dream one day to be surrounded by Patrols and play with them and come up with new rigs by swapping bits and pieces.
Keep us posted with your progress.
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  #37  
Old 11-01-2017, 08:46 PM
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I used a "balloon trick" to pin point the TDC on each cylinders. Basically I attached a balloon to the end of the compression tester hose or leak down tester and turned the crank. The balloon keeps inflating and then suddenly goes flat when you go pass TDC and then you turn the crank back a bit to match the highest point of balloon inflation.

Make sure you remove the schrader valve of the compression tester/leak down teser hose, otherwise the balloon stays pumped & you won't find the TDC.

Google or youtube it, if you're not sure.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:51 PM
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Also keep an eye on the crank while pumping the pressure into the combustion chamber to see whether the crankshaft can turn from the pressure in the combustion chamber. It's never happened to me, but I heard from somewhere it's possible.
Considering the big end bearing end is at a right angle to the crankshaft when the piston is on TDC, I guess the mechanical possibility of that is remote, but it helps to keep an eye though.
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  #39  
Old 12-01-2017, 07:03 AM
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I used a "balloon trick" to pin point the TDC on each cylinders. Basically I attached a balloon to the end of the compression tester hose or leak down tester and turned the crank. The balloon keeps inflating and then suddenly goes flat when you go pass TDC and then you turn the crank back a bit to match the highest point of balloon inflation.

Make sure you remove the schrader valve of the compression tester/leak down teser hose, otherwise the balloon stays pumped & you won't find the TDC.

Google or youtube it, if you're not sure.
I am not quite sure of how to do a leak down or /compression test.

For example how to connect the hoses to the cylinders? Fuel injector? Glow plug? With that amount of pressure, I guess the must be some fittings?

When we come to my place perhaps you can show me? YouTube is a good place but I am still unclear about that.

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  #40  
Old 12-01-2017, 08:18 AM
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Most of the compression you will find are for a petrol engine as such have spark plug adapters and will only have gauges up to say 300psi approx.

Leak down testers only need about 100psi or less but you would have to find an adapter that takes the spark plug tread size/pitch and either enlarges it for the injector hole or reduces it for the glow plug hole which I think is an M10x1.5. A hose fitting mob should be able to find the right adapters to make it work.

Diesel specific compression testers and leak down testers are really expensive from what I have researched.
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