I am unable to unlock the drivers side door to my Nissan Patrol 2003. It is jammed and I cant open it using the key, door handles from inside or outside. I have removed the drivers side seat in order to remove some of the door trim to get at the locking mechanism. But this is also very difficult to get a good look at the lock even though I can partilally get at the mechanism the door wont open... desperate
Hi Sonnyboy, you sure picked a bitch of a problem and as you would have found out by now you are a lot better off being left handed to attack the problem.
I have not had the pleasure of doing a Nissan patrol one but have done a few fords. To have a good look in there you need the mirror on the flexable handle or maybe a straight handled one and a torch will do. I am not sure if the Nissan patrol one is the same as the fords.
There is a rod from the key barrel connected to the locking mechanism. This mechanical rod is what opens the latch when using the key entry in case of flat battery or other electrical problem which prevents keyless entry. When it is in a sideways position, i.e dropped out of the end holder for whatever reason the mechanism does not unlock. If it has dropped out then holding it in an upright position will allow you to unlock it with the keyless entry and then you can use the door handle to open it.
Like I said up front I have only done some Fords and not a Patrol. Difficult when you are not there to see for yourself what's going on.
The locking mechanism is designed not to let go even on impact. If it's not the rod dropping out problem I would advise putting the drivers seat back in and taking it to Nissan for this one. They damage the door further, they fix it for free. It is possible that the locking mechanism is more than likely on the way out.
Today my 2004 GU ute wouldn't lock using the key on the drivers door. I slammed it shut a few times, jiggled the key ect and nothing helped.
After a while it was getting worse, in the end it would not unlock. Luckily I was "locking" it by flicking the steel latch with a screw driver. If I had actually shut the door as normal, I have no idea how the door would ever be opened again without getting out a hole saw and tin snips. I'll explain why below...
So ended up pulling the whole latch mechanism out of the door and having a really good look at it. I found that normally when you pull on the door handle, a connecting rod pulls on a lever that is fixed to the latch housing. That leaver is internally attached somehow to a small plastic flap. That flap sits up normally under spring tension and prevents the latch from disengaging the steel "U" that is built into B pillar. When the door handle is pulled, the plastic flap is lowered inside the housing and that allows the steel latch to flick free and the door to open.
In my case something was worn inside the permanently sealed housing and the plastic flap wasn't going through it's full range of movement and thus not allowing the latch to move.
It was possible to poke the plastic flap down using a screw driver. BUT that is only possible because I had the door open at the time. If it were closed it would be impossible to open the door without destroying it.
I even tried getting a pair of pliers onto the lever that the connecting rod attaches to. I put many many times more force through the lever using the pliers that I could ever have done with the door handle. Still it did not budge. I assume that what ever has happened inside the sealed housing is fairly serious and not a case of some gunk jamming something.
I'm off to try and find a new driver's side latch mechanism tomorrow. I'll be effed if I'm paying Nissan over $200 for a new one but!
Had a very similar issue to those above recently. While the handbrake was driving home from work the drivers side door decided it was going to open on her going round a round-about. Insert skid-marks *here* Upon inspection it was found that the door latch mechanism has **** itself. After pulling the door apart and removing the mechanism I found one of the small black pins that hold the inner plastic levers together had snapped and due to this, the small flap that holds the latch in place would not pop up and thus the door would not latch.
So after removing and inspecting i decided to drill a hole through the mechanism, use a screw to replace the plastic pin and use small washers to "shim" the internal levers. Success! - Or so I thought.
After re-installing the latch mechanism, I had the minister of finance close the door while I checked tolerances from inside. As the door closed I heard the familiar click and was proud of the good work, however I noticed a small, flat and wide spring drop from the mechanism as it engaged. How important could that be? - Very ****ing important.
So now the door was closed and due to the spring falling out, the small flap that holds the latch in place would now not drop down, as though the door was locked. And no amount of linkage manipulation would allow it to unlock. Every prod and poke, thump and bump to the door, mechanism, handles and linkages was attempted, to no avail.
After 3 weeks of the missus bitching about having to climb over the passenger seat, the door is finally fixed. It took 2 of those to track down and recieve a door latch mechanism. I live in Mt Isa, Nth Wst QLD. I tried all the wreckers I could google down the east coast including Brisbane with no luck, eventually finding one in Toowoomba at South West 4x4. Cos I'm not paying the damn Nissan prices!
To open the door again and replace the mechanism without destroying the door. I was very lucky that the door panel was removed when the latch became stuck. I had to remove all linkages from the mechanism, my central locking motor and the arm for the window. I then drilled the plastic out of the back of the mechanism (wish I was left handed) and found the pivot the small flap attatches to. I drilled out as much as I could of the brass and plastic surrounding it untill eventually some manipulation of the internal levers and some very harsh sounding words allowed the toggle to drop and the latch to disengage. You ****in beauty!
So a 3mm by 6mm plastic pin caused almost a month of grief. I'd like to thank Nissan cost cutting initiatives for making theses mechanisms non-servicable and a right bitch to repair. Hopefully this can help peoples with similar issues in the future.
We're just going thru a similar thing now. The door wouldn't latch shut, then when we held the door shut, and locked it, it stayed shut. now we can unlock or whatever, it ain't opening. Lucky we also have the door trim off, so hopefully we can manipulate something in there, to get it to open.
Nissan want $245 for a new one... I wonder if they're cheaper in other countries, from Nissan?
Hey guys, if the door is locked and can not be unlocked with the key. Gain entry to car hopefully with out destruction of something. To unlock the door i removed the screw in the internal door handle/lock and manipulated it and the lock back n forth. What happens is a black dowel that the lock pivots on, snaps and jamms up the lock, as well as not having a point to pivot on, so you need to move the connecting rod that joins the internal door handle to the mechanism futher to unlock the mechanism.
this is what I have done to both my patrols drivers doors,
My drivers door is locked and wont unlock, it was working one day not the next, I'm convinced its the "small flap" problem discussed above. My door trim is still on, I did try everything suggested, then bit the bullet and bored a hole on the internal trim (I figured I could cover the hole with a speaker or similar) , so I could feel and manipulate the levers, I can get my hand through the hold (just) , however everything I tried did not work. I was using a mirror and a light on the passengers door so I could "practice" where I had full access , then repeat the action on the drivers door via feel. so I'm looking for advice,
but I believe i'm at this point as suggested by Rebel above, " I then drilled the plastic out of the back of the mechanism (wish I was left handed) and found the pivot the small flap attatches to. I drilled out as much as I could of the brass and plastic surrounding it untill eventually some manipulation of the internal levers and some very harsh sounding words allowed the toggle to drop and the latch to disengage. You ****in beauty!"
which will involve destroying the trim, and then possibly stuffing up the door lock, else I will just put up with entry via the passengers door for the next 50 years (cause the TD42 will never die or leave my company), suggestions appreciated .
I have a 2004 GU3 ZD30
Wife call me up, was 80km from home... door won't close... she had the bright idea of using the key to lock the door closed. yes, she got home safely and it opened again. phewwww... read this forum and pooped my pants... ok... strapped the door closed with STOUT cable ties and takes it the resident 4WD shop I use. I warned them of the issue including the likelihood of the door locking shut for good. We pinned it down [meaning , we THOUGHT we pinned it down] to the actuator in this particular case... Some adjustments and checks all working OK.. My mechanic took it out to make room in the shop and the door sorta 'clicked'.. that was it,,,, locked shut and with the door panel on.
Long story short, and only being charged 1 hr labour [really took about 5 hours] the door is fixed, this is what we now know.
the door latch mechanism fails as outlined above, sometimes you get warning, other times not. when this happens there is a high likelihood of the central locking actuator burning out trying to move the unmovable failed latch. :headwall: my actuator burnt out and the latch had failed. End result, new actuator [replace burnt out one] and new latch mechanism at my insistance. I paid Nissan new part prices($460) there is no way my mechanic and I want to go through that again. in this case, buying second hand may be buying you a ticking time bomb, you don't know how worn the latch is. The driver's door is the most used door and as I see it, why buy potential trouble. reading the forums here, always seems to indicate the driver's door is the one that goes, just mull that over when you buy a second-hand part.
BTW we did price a seccy latch and it was only $60 cheaper than a new one. Seems the wreckers are trying to price themselves out of existence......
Hi,
Ive been reading this thread with dread. My 2004 Patrol drivers door is shut, with trim in place, and it wont open from the inside or outside. A few weeks ago, it was fine, then a gremlin appeared. First sign was the central locking wouldnt lock the drivers door via key in door, or via remote. All other doors locked. On further investigation, found that on the inside handle of the drivers door, the latch which you push across to lock the door from the inside, was being obstructed from going the full distance. Curiously, with the drivers door closed, I could simply lock the drivers door manually from the inside, and climb out the passenger side, but if I tried to manually lock the drivers door with the door open, the tab would not travel the full distance to lock. Close the door, then it can be manually locked from the inside?? So, I let this go for a few weeks as I pondered what could be the issue, until now, the door is closed, and no handles work to open it. Can anyone give me any further pointers on how I can get my door open, without destroying the trim please. Any tips welcome.
Hey guys I've got a 2011 ST Patrol and my drivers doors locked and cannot be open from both inside or outside I've managed to remove the top window trim allowing me access to view the mechanism from the top and also the inner door handle exposing the two rods connecting to a actuator but still am confused as to what I have to do to at least jut get the door open to remove and repair/replace this part any help would be greatly appreciated cheers heaps all
Jersey
There is a blue plastic link for the rods under the latch mechanism that can break/wear/fail, this happened on a mates car last year, we were able to remove the armrest and cut a strategically placed hole behind it that allowed us to get at it to at least open the door.
I replaced the barrel lock last year. Problem was the key would turn to 3 o'clock (lock) but would not go 12 to 9 (open). It was $104 at Nissan because I had to have it or option $38 eBay or $65 pair.
I was confused by the rod mechanism for a while until you discover the simple push release clip system....2000 model.
Both my GQ rear doors have done this in the last 12 months. I've had to remove door trims each time and manipulate/jiggle the locking mech by reaching inside the door to it and doing it sight unseen, until somehow the door has unlocked.
To fix it is fairly simple - clean the hell out of the lock mech with aerosol brake cleaner, then let it dry, then hit it with WD40. No further problems (and thanks Suggy126 for that tip). Clearly the GQ locks aren't breaking pins like GU, but you never know - could just be gunked up with dust/dirt like mine were.
I hate to revive this thread . . . but reading through this thread above and the issue for so many . . . yep this exact issue is what I am having right now. . . . bugger.
This is not going to be fun . . .
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