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Old 28-06-2009, 12:16 AM
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Default Engine troubleshooting 2.8 GU

Hello All,
I had my 2.8 GU in for a service to keep my used car warranty valid, the car has been unusually sluggish. So I got the fuel filter changed, turbo boost checked and general inspection ie. no fault codes. Drove away with a little more pickup and less $130. A week and 200km later driving from Newcastle to Sydney the car starts to "surge" very faintly as though you're lightly accelerating every 30 seconds. After about 10 minutes, I notice the car is struggling on only minor hills, by the time I'm in Sydney, it starts "surging" majorly and each time the car loses power a puff of black smoke pumps out the back, then power picks back up for 30 seconds, then all over again. To cut the story short, I got the car back to a mechanic that I've previously been quite happy with to take a look.......

It's been 5 weeks and not too sure what the @*&%*^ is going on. Apparently the MAF logged a code, so tested with another MAF - code gone, but problem stayed on. Compression is good, filters good, one bad glow plug, no hot or cold start problems and no other fault codes. Next suggested to check injectors,...rebuilt injectors ($800) and problem still there. My mechanic took it to some diesel pro's they say check timing 'cause it's definitely a fuel delivery problem.....Timing is all good, car still no good.

Injector pump is the last thing to check because it's the RD28ETi with electric throttle control. If there is a problem with the actuators in the pump, they will log a fault code. No codes, so it must have to do with the mechanical side of the pump - the quote for that rebuild is $1000-$1200. It's been 2 weeks since I gave the go ahead for that rebuild and still waiting for the result. For those of you who read through this longwinded report, I thank you, and if you've been down this path, I'd love to know if I'm on the right track by ok-ing all these repairs on the fuel delivery system.

P.S The GU 315k on the clock and averages 12L/100km I've had it for 25k of trouble free touring.
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  #2  
Old 28-06-2009, 09:14 AM
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Thats a real bugger sorry i dont have any tips but keep us informed on what you find
Hope it doesnt cost you to much more to figure out whats wrong
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Old 28-06-2009, 09:43 AM
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$1200 for a pump rebuild seems cheap. I have read on here most pay around the $2500 mark. I hope it sorts out your problem. What does your mechanic suggest if that doesnt work?
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Old 28-06-2009, 12:10 PM
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$1200 was just the mechanical side of the pump, if they replace any electrics it goes up $2000- $2500 so I'm told. The mechanic has assured me that it'll work....I asked him about 4 times when he mentioned injector pump rebuild!

On another note someone suggested the mech pump from a 2.8 GQ abit of tinkering with throttle cables & timing belt pully adaptors, but you can tune it for mor performance also no more electrics ie. MAF.
If anyone has done this I'd love to hear how it went?
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Old 28-06-2009, 07:35 PM
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just had a thought this afternoon could a faulty harmonic balancer cause the problems you are having.
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Old 28-06-2009, 08:04 PM
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Is the car hard when starting or just driving...
I think not exactly 100% but if harmonic balance is buggered you shouldnt be able to start the car, mates had that problem surged then died. it was the harmonic balance
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Old 28-06-2009, 08:15 PM
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The mechanic has re-checked the timing belt which was replaced 25k ago and all was good. There is no starting problems hot or cold. The "surge" or "fuel dumping" happens through out the rev range and is very consistant (swiss watch consistant).
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Old 29-06-2009, 06:08 PM
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Latest from the mechanic, the injector specialist has had to replace failed governor in the pump don't know the cost yet but I'm glad they found something after all this time. I'll let you know if it solves the issue when the cars back on the road hopfuly some time this week.

I should have got "pay for use" insurance LOL!!
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DIY Hydrogen Generator Testing
DIY Headlight covers Working
Safari Snorkel
Dual Battery
13k & 3 mths Thru NSW & SA's Desert Parks
Sailed over Big Red @15 psi (in tyres, not boost)
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Old 29-06-2009, 06:14 PM
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Fingers crossed
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Old 30-06-2009, 09:37 PM
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Let us know how you go there.
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:42 AM
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Diesel Tech's calibration machine broke down, another 5 days before pump is ready...

Any one have a spare Patrol lying around 'cause I forgot what mine looks like!!
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Sailed over Big Red @15 psi (in tyres, not boost)
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Old 31-07-2009, 11:27 AM
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Hi any updates?
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Old 31-07-2009, 07:47 PM
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i had a similar problem as this.had the timing done with my injector pump all sorted.i reckon your nearly there mate.good luck.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:29 AM
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Hello All,
I had to take my patrol of the mechanic.....Its been 2 months now! Rebuilt injector pump, reconditioned injectors, timing checked and still drove like a bag of sh#t but with a 'needle lift sensor' fault code!! Still had no power, still surging, still very smokey and had a new rattle which went away when lift sensor was disconected. I took it to Nissan, and for $87 ran a diagnostic report which showed Mass Air Flow Sensor was the fault and there was no current fault with the lift sensor. I have replaced the MAF sensor and put in a new air filter and hey presto the truck drives great!!!! The rattle went away with the new MAF but came back after about 50km, I ran a fuel system cleaner through at the same time so I'm going to change the fuel filter after a few more k's and take it into nissan to check for codes if the rattle continues.
I've been told the lift sensor (only on injector #1) can't be tested and if faulty must be replaced ($550 injector and sensor from Nissan), and is very easily damaged if correct tools are not used.

What have I learn't....
Step 1: First sign of engine change for the worse ie. power loss, surging, smokey exhaust, Get in that engine bay change your air filter $40&15mins, oil and filter $50 and $25&1hr, fuel filter $35&30mins and get some MAF sensor cleaner by CRC from Repco $23 and possibly some fuel cleaner/conditioner(a few 100k befor changing fuel filter)

Step 2: Ask your Nissan service centre for a fixed price on a diagnostic report. This is done with a Nissan Consult tool and they have more accurrate ways of accessing fault codes. They also notify you before they proceed with any work or if there are delays in the time you have been quoted.

Step 3: With the Nissan diagnostic report and quote in hand. Call around and get other quotes and prices for after market parts. All the time knowing that because you've done 'step 1' your not going to rebuild your injectors and injector pump 'cause of a dirty MAF sensor and blocked air filter!

Also make sure if its a diesel engine problem take it to a diesel engine specialist even if their $/hr are higher, because there is a difference and you'll thank yourself in the long run. If injectors or pumps done find out where they are doing the rebuild and contact the company directly they usually know whats wrong with the pump or injectors with in a day and how long it will take and how much also what other options you have available. Information your mechanic may not pass on.

Sorry for the long update, but this has been my worst experience as a consumer and I hope no one would have to go through this.

It's not over yet but at least I've got my truck back on the road.

Cheers
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SHNORK The Patrol
DIY Hydrogen Generator Testing
DIY Headlight covers Working
Safari Snorkel
Dual Battery
13k & 3 mths Thru NSW & SA's Desert Parks
Sailed over Big Red @15 psi (in tyres, not boost)
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