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  #21  
Old 14-10-2013, 07:54 PM
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My sub tank light came on by its self
I put a new battery clamp on the neg post and all was well
Another thing u could do is put a new earth strap from bat to chassie
With the turbo timer if u have a cheap one or the wroung one the sub light will come on
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  #22  
Old 14-10-2013, 08:23 PM
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I heard back from ARB today. They sorted the other guy out - apparently it was some wires that had been squashed and crimped under the sub tank. They have also sent me a technical bulletin with trouble shooting information that others may find useful. Apparently I have to start by disconnecting my battery terminal for half and hour or so to reset the sub tank warning light on the instrument panel. Then I can follow these instructions to diagnose the circuit causing the problem.

Operation
Nissan’s sub tank fuel system, utilized in the Y61 range of Patrol’s, controls the sub fuel pump’s operation using three inputs in determining the operation of the sub fuel tank pump.
These inputs are received to the sub fuel tank control module from:
• Main fuel tank full switch- built into the main tank gauge unit. When the predetermined level is exceeded, the full switch operates to stop sub fuel pump operation, preventing excess fuel from flowing into the main fuel tank.
• Sub fuel tank empty switch- built into the sub tank gauge unit. It senses the sub fuel tank fuel level. When fuel in the sub fuel tank drops below the predetermined level, the empty switch operates to stop sub fuel pump operation. If, after 1 hour of sub tank fuel pump operation, conditions are not met from either of the tank level switches, the sub fuel pump automatically stops. This provides a safety feature of the system.
• Dash mounted sub fuel tank switch- driver activated control.

Diagnostics
The sub tank system is capable of self diagnosis.
• After turning the ignition switch ON, turn the sub fuel tank switch ON and OFF more than 5 times. Make sure the sub tank indicator light in the instrument cluster flashes every 2 seconds. (Self- diagnosis will then be activated.)
• Wait at least 10 seconds, and then start the engine.
• After engine start, the sub tank indicator light in the instrument cluster will flash a trouble code.
Refer to the trouble code chart below.
• If the system is in fail safe mode, the light will flash 4 times per second as an indication at the
beginning of each group of codes.
• Each trouble code consists of two groups of flashes.
• First group indicates the 'tens' of the trouble code [A].
• Second group indicates the 'units' of the trouble code [C].
• A 2.0 second flash indicates the start of the code group [D].
• A long pause separates each trouble code [B].


Erasing
The trouble code/s retained in the sub fuel tank control module memory, by removing the battery earth terminal. Recheck the codes are clear by activating the self diagnosis and confirm codes are clear. (After starting the engine, the sub tank lamp will flash at one second intervals). Exit self diagnosis (turn off IGN).Check to ensure that sub tank warning lamp remains off.
Flash code Description Fail safe activation
11 Main fuel tank gauge unit circuit or full switch circuit
12 Sub fuel tank gauge unit circuit or empty switch circuit
13 Sub fuel pump power supply circuit
14 Sub fuel pump circuit
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  #23  
Old 15-10-2013, 07:23 PM
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It would appear someone from ARB has access to information many Nissan Dealers aren't aware of.
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  #24  
Old 16-10-2013, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterc3009 View Post
It would appear someone from ARB has access to information many Nissan Dealers aren't aware of.
It was in a technical bulletin dated July 2013.
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  #25  
Old 16-10-2013, 07:26 AM
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No Sorry, July 2011
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  #26  
Old 16-10-2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterc3009 View Post
It would appear someone from ARB has access to information many Nissan Dealers aren't aware of.
Okay, here's where ARB got it from:
Technical Bulletin V7.0 July 2011.
Autodata Pty Ltd PO Box 802 Capalaba Q4157
Tel 07 3245 3282 Fax: 07 3245 3422 Email: sales@autodata.com.au
Web: Autodata Australia - Automotive Software for Mechanical Workshops - Home
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  #27  
Old 16-10-2013, 04:38 PM
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Mechanics for Dummies: the latest move.
Last night I finally got around to disconnecting the battery terminals (in the dark - by feel). In the process the bonnet struts gave way and it fell on my head. Not happy Jan.
This morning found a lump of 3 by 2 to hold up the bonnet while I reconnected the battery.
Yes the sub tank light had gone out! Wahoo.
Unfortunately it came back on the next time I started the car.
This afternoon I bought some new gas struts - wow they had them in stock.
I have the battery disconnected and will do the diagnostics after the battery is reconnected.
Meanwhile I will attempt to replace the gas struts without further injury.
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  #28  
Old 16-10-2013, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalaicamel View Post
Mechanics for Dummies: the latest move.
Last night I finally got around to disconnecting the battery terminals (in the dark - by feel). In the process the bonnet struts gave way and it fell on my head. Not happy Jan.
This morning found a lump of 3 by 2 to hold up the bonnet while I reconnected the battery.
Yes the sub tank light had gone out! Wahoo.
Unfortunately it came back on the next time I started the car.
This afternoon I bought some new gas struts - wow they had them in stock.
I have the battery disconnected and will do the diagnostics after the battery is reconnected.
Meanwhile I will attempt to replace the gas struts without further injury.
Hi

But the subtank should fire up every start if the main tank is below a certain level. It pumps a little in each time, the problem is this hardly ever works without a reset and then it doesnt seem to last for long for people who have a problem.

k
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  #29  
Old 16-10-2013, 10:10 PM
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Yeah that's where I'm at - trying to reset the system so that the sub light on the instrument panel goes off. Then I can do the diagnostic thingy.
But even once I do that I'm not sure I have the wherewithal to fix it.
Might have to wait until I can drive the 7 or 8 hours to ARB when the are open. Not easy when you work normal hours.
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  #30  
Old 17-10-2013, 08:41 PM
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[QUOTE=BushRanger7;473449]i had the same dramas... PITA!!
As said, disconnect the neg terminal overnight.

When I disconnected BOTH terminals it didn't fix the problem but when I disconnected only the negative overnight, it seems to have reset the system.
The sub tank light on the instrument panel has gone out and comes on only when I turn on the ignition.
Turning "the sub fuel tank switch ON and OFF more than 5 times" had no affect. The sub tank indicator light did not "flash every two seconds". (I wonder if that means there is no problem to diagnose?)
However, when I was pushing the button on and off I noticed that each time I turned it on there was a momentary pumping noise presumably coming from the sub tank pump.
Perhaps this means that resetting the system was all that was necessary. I will find out when the main tank gets low enough to refill from the sub tank. We're doing a another long trip on the weekend so I should find out then.
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  #31  
Old 22-10-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendacre View Post
Hi

But the subtank should fire up every start if the main tank is below a certain level. It pumps a little in each time, the problem is this hardly ever works without a reset and then it doesnt seem to last for long for people who have a problem.

k
Mate, I think you're right. I got it reset and working once I got the main tank low enough. (that takes quite a bit of driving with a long range tank) Then it shorted out again either when the sub tank ran out of fuel or when the main tank reached its upper limit (not sure which). Once I put some more fuel in the sub tank and reset it, it worked again fine but I've no idea when its going to cut out again.
What gets me is that before I had the long range tanks put in, it never gave any trouble. I'm just about ready to follow Pooj's advice and put a solenoid system on it.
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