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  #1  
Old 02-04-2009, 02:08 PM
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Default Heavy Duty Radiator

This is to suit a GU TD42 NA with after market turbo.

I have just spoken with Natrad about Radiators. They do an aftermarket replacement for $660 compared to genuine for $1000. When asked he admitted the aftermarket was made in China and I have heard bad reports about Chinese radiators.

Natrad also do a heavy duty radiator with brass tanks for $1200. Made in Adelaide. They are allegedly 30% more efficient, and they are 52mm thick. They are supposed to be a simple bolt in replacement.

Has anyone used the Natrad Heavy Duty radiator before and have any feedback.

Cheers
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Old 02-04-2009, 05:16 PM
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Another option is PWR http://www.pwr.com.au/#/view=products/s=rs/
They make full alloy welded units of very high quality and performance. I think a GU unit is about $1000.00 but check this for yourself. They usually are a direct bolt in replacement. I installed on in a 2002 GU due to heat problems when fully loaded towing a van in 40c temps. After the installation never had a problem again.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:24 PM
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hey mate, just went through this with a mates 02 TD42T.......dont get natrad or auss ie desert cooler alloy rad.
The Aus Des was just to big even though it was "ment to fit" after alot of rooting around got a PWR to suit...Great piece of gear fit straight in no hassels, was $926 trade the aus des were $856
Go the pwr any time
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:14 AM
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From what I have researched on PWR and Aussie Des Coolers neither of them are a direct bolt in. The other issue I see with PWR, being fully welded, how do you pull the tank of to get it cleaned in a couple of years?

Petefire, any reason WHY I shouldn't get Natrad, is there something about them that is no good?
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher
From what I have researched on PWR and Aussie Des Coolers neither of them are a direct bolt in. The other issue I see with PWR, being fully welded, how do you pull the tank of to get it cleaned in a couple of years?

Petefire, any reason WHY I shouldn't get Natrad, is there something about them that is no good?
Hey mate, Never had that much luck over the years with the natrads, they just dont seem to last.I would go an alloy anyday for the increased cooling effect and they hold more coolant(approx extra 3.5 to 4 liters)We had no issues at all with the pwr replacement fitting.All the hose connections were spot on, good drain plug(not plastic) and even had the two fittings in the bottom for the a/c temp switches. Aus Des were to big,no drain,no fittings in bottom,where the top and bottom hoses went on the fittings were not the same, even the radiator cap was the large style not the small like nissans.
Again mate this is my opion and ive replaced a s h i t load of rads,over the years.Sorry mate never heard of there H/D modle but still has brass tanks that are soldered on anyway.....and made in china says it all(prob why when ive used them there not much chop....
I'd go the PWR if you have the coin.
Cheers and let us know how you go.
And buy the way, alot of people who do alot of touring especially up north, say once its 40C plus and your towing into a head wind even the nissan fac rad would heat up.and make sure all the rubber flaps etc in the inner gaurds are there,they make a big diff to correct air flow.
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:07 PM
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being n/a with turbo aftermarket, i assume its a series 1

dont know what material radiator series 1's came with but there is NOOOOOOO way i would put a copper radiator in a vehicle that had an aluminium from factory
my series 3 has an aluminium radiator

aluminium radiators work much much better than copper units.
more $$$, but do you want something that works?
i would certainly be avoiding a chinese unit
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:11 PM
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i bought a aussie desert cooler for my GU, never got around to fitting it properly (sold the GU). But i trial-fitted it, and everything seemed to line up. You'd have, i think, zero chance of running the standard clutch fan. But who cares? Get a decent set of thermos (i was goin to run AU V8 ford ones, the genuine ford ones, dont get the copy ones, they're ****). Its a big-ass radiator, thats for sure. I would've had no doubt it'd keep it cool.
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:39 PM
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In relation to cleaning welded rads. if you run coolant as you should there is nothing to clean. The don't build up anything to clean. PWR was definately a 100% bolt in fit on my 2002 wagon.
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:49 PM
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the patrols have a big opening at the front
what suprised me was in the 2006 4.2 there is 6 inches each side they did not use

the factory radiator is bordering on narow gutted toyota size

these PWR's are they wider as well
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:23 PM
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if you fit a pwr radiator just make sure you cut 10mm off the bottom end of the bottom hose as it can touch the clutch on the ac and wear a hole in the hose

another vote for the pwr that thing is huge and very well made and fits with the factory viscous fan and shroud a big plus for a tourer and less to go wrong and work well for a 2 core 52mm radiator
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2010, 08:00 PM
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Of the 2 fellas I know with PWR radiators, both have broken mounts. And I've heard of more. (heresay, who cares) Ally does not flex real well so maybe. I've got a HUGE 4 CORE Natrad Brass/Copper radiator (3 weeks old) in the shed. Is on the market. I would'nt mind betting the PWR cores come out of China too. I know the 4core Natrad Radiator was built in Aus. even if the core came from China, but I doubt it. It took 3 days to order and build, same days as my Hino radiator.

As for Ally being better than B/C???? A radiator that size, it aint gunna make that much diffence.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashleyhj74 View Post
i bought a aussie desert cooler for my GU, never got around to fitting it properly (sold the GU). But i trial-fitted it, and everything seemed to line up. You'd have, i think, zero chance of running the standard clutch fan. But who cares? Get a decent set of thermos (i was goin to run AU V8 ford ones, the genuine ford ones, dont get the copy ones, they're ****). Its a big-ass radiator, thats for sure. I would've had no doubt it'd keep it cool.

I put an Aussie Desert Coolers alloy radiator in my 4.2D GQ. Bolted straight in. Hoses fit up fine. Clears the standard clutch fan no worries at all. There was a bit of a gap top and bottom between the radiator cores and the original fan shroud, I just used some double sided rubber tape to fill the gap.

Dave.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:03 PM
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What you really need is something that is similar but cheaper than a genuine Nissan rad. Quality is key (dont want to be replacing it again inside 3 years do you ?). As to the number of cores, 2 is good enough if the tubes are spaced as the the original one, that quality vs quantity thing again. Problem with aftermarket stuff is its sold on big numbers for small price, thats not always a good thing. Just my 2 Eurocents worth.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frosty1970 View Post
Of the 2 fellas I know with PWR radiators, both have broken mounts. And I've heard of more. (heresay, who cares) Ally does not flex real well so maybe. I've got a HUGE 4 CORE Natrad Brass/Copper radiator (3 weeks old) in the shed. Is on the market. I would'nt mind betting the PWR cores come out of China too. I know the 4core Natrad Radiator was built in Aus. even if the core came from China, but I doubt it. It took 3 days to order and build, same days as my Hino radiator.

As for Ally being better than B/C???? A radiator that size, it aint gunna make that much diffence.
I think yoiu will find PWR radiators are made in queensland. I know this cause im a mad F1 fan and know that they make the radiators for 3 of the F1 teams and possibly 7 teams next year. Not that im saying there radiators are superior but im sure the technology put into the F1 radiators would flow down to car radiators. That is all.
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:29 AM
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Default aluminium plastic v copper brass

I had trouble with aluminium core and plastic tank radiators in my GU patrol 2.8l. had poor cooling when up north travelling around gibb river area with caravan in tow. called into a radiator place in Broome and had radiator power flushed and this made no difference to it at all. so when i returned back home i visited my local radiator shop and had a three core brass and copper made. on our next trip we had no problems with cooling, it is now 3 years old and still looks like new. a good investment i believe $550. i had 2 plastic tanks crack while travelling up north (thank god for locktite 101) over three years prior to installing new brass and copper radiator.

so i think it depends on your own preference
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefire427 View Post
even had the two fittings in the bottom for the a/c temp switches.
Hi Pete.
I had a look at my radiator today and I could not see any plugs on the bottom of it.
Looking at the ECU diagnostics sheets you sent me a while ago my coolant temperature sensor for the air con and the timing control is located under the intake manifold on the engine block.
Did they change the location on some of the latter models. Cheers.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dags79 View Post
I think yoiu will find PWR radiators are made in queensland. I know this cause im a mad F1 fan and know that they make the radiators for 3 of the F1 teams and possibly 7 teams next year. Not that im saying there radiators are superior but im sure the technology put into the F1 radiators would flow down to car radiators. That is all.

They are based in Yatala, north of the Gold Coast. They are made there but the actual core could outsourced. They also supply most of the V8 supercar teams as Paul wheel is an ex driver. They make an awesome unit, especially for performance applications. I'm still a bit unsure on their lifespan in our application. As for cooling performance in a 4by, there would be bugger all difference between C/B and ally.
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baron View Post
Hi Pete.
I had a look at my radiator today and I could not see any plugs on the bottom of it.
Looking at the ECU diagnostics sheets you sent me a while ago my coolant temperature sensor for the air con and the timing control is located under the intake manifold on the engine block.
Did they change the location on some of the latter models. Cheers.
Hi Karl, Not sure mate, The PWR rad I put in for a mate had a 2000 mod TD42T. The sensors were only to do with the a/c function(one cut the a/c out at high temps, the other one cut the condensor fan in without the a/c on for extra cooling) may have changed on our models.He still had the other two sensors at the thermostat housing. I'll have a look in the next day or two at mine and see if the sensors are still in the rad or not.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2010, 04:34 PM
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Default Natrad Radiator

I purchased a Natrad replacement in place of genuine radiator 11 months ago. I have towed my 19 foot caravan in 45 degree heat and have not had any problems at all. However I make sure the radiator system is kept serviced and the clutch fan is in good order which I replaced not long ago.

Regards
Danny
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:14 PM
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i just priced a PWR as my rad shyte itself today nice hole right where the fan shroud sits and rubs against the rad,

$1200 + freight

i'm not saying that dear or not , but they'd want to be bloody good for that price .
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