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  #1  
Old 16-04-2008, 04:28 PM
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Default TB45E valve clearances

Searching the forum seems to indicate that 0.38 mm is the correct valve clearance for this engine.
Info I dug up in some recently acquired TB45E specs says differently. There's even a pretty wide variation depending on temperature.. here's a pic from the service manual:



The engine is currently 'cold' (hasn't run since yesterday) and I've measured 0.30 mm intake and 0.35 mm exhaust on No 6 cylinder - 6 was the first TDC I got when I turned the engine..

The chart seems to indicate that I should be setting them to 0.20 mm..

Any comments welcome..

Last edited by JFF45; 16-04-2008 at 04:35 PM.
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  #2  
Old 16-04-2008, 07:21 PM
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My research told me the same. I found a site a while ago that said 0.20 cold, 0.38 warm. I set them at 0.20 when cold and they made no noise but something didn't feel right with the car so maybe the valves weren't completely closing. I reset them to 0.30 cold and you can just hear them but it seems to idle smoother.

Check this thread
LPG consumption

Maybe that chart is for the TB48?
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Old 16-04-2008, 08:43 PM
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No, the chart is definitely for the TB45E..

At 0.20 mm the valves will completely close. Clearly, there's a big expansion factor so 0.20 mm will apparently get to 0.35 - 0.38 when hot.

Mine aren't noisy but I'm measuring 0.30 - 0.35 at the moment with the engine at around 20 degrees..

I'll follow the workshop manual and see what happens. It can't do any damage and it's easy to re-adjust if it doesn't run right..

Thanks,
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Old 16-04-2008, 11:51 PM
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Intake & exhaust are 8 thou cold (0.20mm) or 14 thou (0.35mm ) hot (from the gu workshop manual for a TB45E )

Cold is classed as 20 degrees c but it also says if they are set cold to recheck when hot so you may as well do them hot first up

Regards Don
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Old 17-04-2008, 10:07 AM
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As everything is stripped down at the moment, I'm not about to put it all back in place just for the discomfort of working on a hot engine..

At 110 kgs and 62 years of age, I find it already a chore to get in there..
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Old 17-04-2008, 01:06 PM
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Default Valve clearance

Are they adjusted with "shims in buchets" or locknut on screw type?

The reason I ask is my 4.8 is shim style and I've been quoted insane prices to check and adjust them by Nissan who are the only people who I can find to do it.
I'd like to stay away from the Nissan dealers if possible.
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2003 Ti Patrol, 4.8l with LPG , 2" raised Lovell HD suspension, Nissan bar, Hella 4000 spots , custom cargo drawers, sunroof and a Waeco full of TED's.
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Old 17-04-2008, 01:57 PM
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Fortunately, the 4500 engine is the 'old' pushrod OHV engine so it's the screw/locknut on the rocker arm to adjust..
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Old 17-04-2008, 02:08 PM
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Default 0.20 mm cold works for me

Engine sounds sweet and pulls strongly, idle is perfect at 600 rpm in gear.
I also put new plugs in while I was at it.. part of 120k service.
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Old 26-08-2012, 10:07 PM
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Time to bring up a old thread.

Is everyone still setting them at .20mm cold or according to the table above? I'm about to do mine for the first time.
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Old 27-08-2012, 12:41 AM
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I bought my car about 2 months ago and did them as soon as I got it. Clearences were just all over the place, set them at .35mm warm and did plugs and leads at the same time, made a massive difference and the motor is heaps quieter now.
Cheers
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Old 27-08-2012, 10:33 AM
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Thanks mate. What is safer, bigger or smaller gap?

I want to do mine cold as it will be bloody close to cold by the time I pull it all off and figure out what I'm doing.

Daytime temp here is about 15 degrees.
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Old 27-08-2012, 11:23 PM
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Haha yeah it took me a while to figure out what I was doing, as it was the first time if done it. Ha to remove all the gas gear as well. Enjoy the 2 rocker cover screws at the fire wall! But I worked on the theory that as the car cools, the gap gets smaller. From what I've read on other threads most of the guys set theirs to .38mm hot, I figured that cause I was doing it a bit slower and takin my time, by the time id gotten to it .35mm would have been pretty close cause the motor had cooled a bit. From what I've read a bigger gap is better, cause if they are too tight the valves burn out. But I'm no expert. Also if your car is running lpg, I'd recommend changing plugs and leads at the same time. Picked up about 50km extra per tank of far, more power and runs heaps smoother. Don't know if that's down to the clearences or the plugs and leads but something made a difference haha
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Old 28-08-2012, 06:57 PM
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Thanks mate, yep planning on changing plugs and leads at the same time.

Quick question, how do you know if cylinder number 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke? I have rotated the crank around so the red line is lined up with the plat indicator under the alternator, but not sure if its number 1 or 6 at TDC?

Thanks a heap.

EDIT: Think I have it sorted, read this on another thread:

If tappets on cylinder # 1 are loose adjust tappet numbers 1,2,3,6,7 and 10
If tappets on cylinder # 6 are loose adjust tappet numbers 4,5,8,9,11 and 12

Last edited by RustyTruck; 28-08-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 28-08-2012, 08:03 PM
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Yep that's the way I did it, I'm pretty sure that's the quotes from the thread I followed when I did mine, was quite helpful
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Old 29-08-2012, 10:13 PM
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Done, and what a shthouse job it is too. Did the plugs and leads also.

Set mine at .20mm but vehicle hasn't been driven for a couple of days and temp here today was about 14 degrees. So the gap may be a little big. But it's not a job id wanna do with a hot motor.

They are more noisy now then the we're before, but heard something a while back saying a little noise while on LPG isn't a bad thing??
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