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  #1  
Old 19-04-2017, 11:31 PM
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Default New GU RD28T Owner

Hi all,

I have just gotten my first ever 4x4 and it is a 1998 GU RD28T Manual. I did some research before i got it and was aware that they are a slow mover. Coming from a skyline this was going to be even worse, but i wasnt prepared for how slow it actually is haha I will get used to it in time i imagine and have read that they are still very capable off road.

The reason for my post is to get some opinions. The body has 400 thousand however it has a new engine that was reco'd and has about 300 thousand on it. I took it in for an inspection at a reputable 4x4 shop today and they said the body is clean and the engine is solid. However it has the original suspension which is on its way out, clutch is going, engine mounts are worn, front bushes need to be changed, tie rod ends, AC compressor and a few other wear and tear bits and pieces. Is there anything in particular that I should do or anything i should steer clear of? The only mods to the car is a 3" turbo back exhaust, EGR blocked off, t28 turbo (is this the stock one or not?) and 4.6 diff gears.

I am in no way mechanically minded and even worse so when it comes to diesels and 4WDs so any input would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 21-04-2017, 10:24 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

Plenty of 2.8 Knowledge here.

Unfortunately the 2.8 is not fast by any measure.

I'd drive it around for a while and see if you can get used to it.
They are an aquired taste.

Best starting point is take it to reputable diesel specialist and make sure the motor is in fundamentally good condition.

There are things you can do to make them better performance wise but don't expect miraculous improvements. It's a small low tech diesel in reality.

Cheers

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Old 22-04-2017, 12:09 PM
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2.8 GU is a good starting point for a first 4WD, it was my first 4WD and I had a ball in it learning to drive, while they're no powerhouse you can get them moving a bit better, and they love to rev compared to larger diesels.

Original suspension with 400k is a scary thought, I would put this at the top of your list along with the front end bushes and tie rods. Depending on what you want to do with the car eg touring/camping rig or tough tracks a 2/3" lift with longer shocks and some form of castor correction (bushes or drop boxes) would be a good starting point, there is a forum member by the name of Zordo http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.au/ who is a great help with any suspension questions and decent pricing. While that's being done it would be wise to check the swivel hubs and wheel bearings aswell, if they're loose it will cause the steering to wobble between 80-90kph.

Once you're ontop of the initial maintenance and have some ideas for mods there is a ton of DIY threads here to help you through it and few helpful members
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Old 29-04-2017, 10:36 AM
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Check out the "super flexy" suspension kit, a heap of options and replaces a lot of that part list and is soooo much better than standard, love mine and the 3' lift kit handles better than standard on the road!!
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Old 29-04-2017, 05:36 PM
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Id replace all bushes in the car with genuine and engine mounts and gearbox mounts then go from there
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Old 30-04-2017, 12:29 PM
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As a fellow GU rd28 owner Iv'e got to agree they are "different" but i love mine.

As per the other suggestion get all of the suspension and bushes done and you'll be surprised how much difference it will make to the handling.

Also don't forget the timing belt on the rd28 is due for replacement every 100,000km, id be getting that changed unless you have some reliable proof of when it was done last.

IMO stay away from bigger tyres, they will just slow you down.

The 4.62 diff gears are standard fitment on the GU's with the 2.8, the t28 is not the standard turbo on the GU 2.8 its actually from the GQ 2.8 standard fitment is the Garrett gt1752s.
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Old 16-06-2017, 04:10 PM
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Hi all,

Apologies in the delay. I thought maybe I would've gotten an email notification when someone replied but last i checked no one had said anything on my post. I appreciate all the input. After having the car for a month or two now, I am getting used to the lack of power but agree that it is a fun car to drive and the extra revving kind of suits my driving style.

I have spoken to a couple of mechanics in town and I am starting with new shocks/springs along with all bushes replaced. I have been recommended RidePro gear (ROX Extreme shocks) (50mm lift) by the bloke I'm going with. We are going to do a major service as when i bought it, we had no indication of when it was last serviced. Going to start from scratch.

My latest issue which began this week is that its begun to blow black smoke (i know they tend to do this however mine wasn't originally) and it now has a hunting idle below 2000revs. it jumps anywhere from 700-1500rpm and putting the clutch in makes it slightly increase however it sticks around. The same time that this started it is very hard to travel at 5-15km/h as the car jumps around like a learner driver. I spoke to my mechanic and he thinks maybe the service will fix it however i cant afford another few grand for a pump so I'm starting to stress. Any ideas?
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Old 18-06-2017, 10:32 AM
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Sounds like a bit of a weird one...

There are a few eccentricities with the way the ecu controls the idle speed in the GU 2.8 that i have noticed:
- There is a kind of "anti stall" that gives it a gut load of fuel any time you let it lug in gear at slow speed and the rpm drops below idle speed. This makes a load of black smoke and if you push in the clutch while this is happening you get a fairly substantial flare up to about 1200 rpm that takes a second or so to drop back to normal.
- The idle speed is different depending of whether you are stationary or moving. You notice this if you drop it back into neutral before you roll to a stop, it holds a higher rpm until just after you stop moving.

However neither of these features should cause the jerky "in gear" low speed behaviour you describe.

Thinking aloud a few possible causes starting cheep and then going up could be:
- blocked air filter
- dirty MAF sensor
- blocked fuel filter/bad tank of fuel
- faulty or stuck egr actuator (if the butterfly has been left in place after the block off)
- faulty neutral switch
- faulty throttle pedal position sensor
- faulty crank angle sensor
- number 1 injector timing sensor faulty
- injectors need overhaul
- fuel pump need overhaul

Don't be talked into going strait for the fuel pump without working through all of the simple stuff first.
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Old 18-06-2017, 05:42 PM
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Thanks alot for all of this info AndyMC. A few of these are stuff that i thought about however there are more here to add to the list. Unfortunately I don't know a lot about cars so will have to spend the money for a mechanic to do all of these checks. I pulled out the MAF today just to see if it would idle normal however even with it all disconnected it was doing the same fluctuating revs (to me this rules out the MAF and blocked air filter however i might be wrong). I am getting the major service done this week so hopefully that will help rule out a few things. I did notice today a leak out of one of the top intercooler pipes (black as black oil) not sure if this will add to my problems or not. Hoping to get a solution early this week as it is really just undriveable atm.
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Old 18-06-2017, 07:51 PM
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Try it with the fuel cap off may be a blocked breather. Also put the primer while idling see if it smooths out

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Old 19-06-2017, 02:11 PM
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hz_350, i did what you said and funnily enough its been running fine while sitting at idle for 10mins then for a few km drive just now (that's all i was able to test between client visits). Not sure if it was a coincidence or you were right. Due to my lack of mechanical knowledge, is this something that will keep recurring until i replace the breathers? (i don't even know what they are or their job) I'm expecting to go back to the car after work this afternoon and the problem will rear its ugly head. I appreciate your input and hope that this will be an easy fix.
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Old 19-06-2017, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GU-rd28t View Post
hz_350, i did what you said and funnily enough its been running fine while sitting at idle for 10mins then for a few km drive just now (that's all i was able to test between client visits). Not sure if it was a coincidence or you were right. Due to my lack of mechanical knowledge, is this something that will keep recurring until i replace the breathers? (i don't even know what they are or their job) I'm expecting to go back to the car after work this afternoon and the problem will rear its ugly head. I appreciate your input and hope that this will be an easy fix.
The fuel tank breather is located behind the plastic cover in the rear drivers side wheel well. If the breather is blocked the tank will get a vacuum so it makes it hard to suck fuel in

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Old 21-06-2017, 05:58 PM
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I had this issue going on for a while........"The same time that this started it is very hard to travel at 5-15km/h as the car jumps around like a learner driver"
Researched all the "bunny-hopping" posts, shoved stuff under accelerator etc, etc - turned out I had a buggered reluctor wheell. Got that replaced, along with harmonic balancer, timing belt etc and now I can crawl along at walking pace with the best of them! You might want to get that looked at when / if you get timing belt done
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Old 22-06-2017, 12:48 PM
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Alright, so I have had a full new suspension put in with a 50mm lift along with all the bits that go along with it including bushes. Had a major service done, engine flush, all new oils/filters/belts etc, wheel bearings replaced and a few other minor things. It now feels like the Patrol is running better, never had an issue with cold starts however taking off first thing in the morning was difficult due to the massive drop in power as the accelerator goes down, this is now 10x better. Only issue is that the Hunting idle/surging is still present and while that's happening, the bunny hops come with it. My mechanic had a play with the AFM and said that wasn't the culprit, thought that maybe because the revs increase when the clutch goes in that it had something to do with the boost assisted clutch, blocked off that tube and still no difference. They then were wondering if the Harmonic balancer was the issue as it had a slight wobble and think that could be throwing out the timing (or something like that). This would then match up to what TheSponge has said above. Does all of what I'm saying sound about right to someone who knows what they're talking about? Also, what sort of money should i be looking at to replace the harmonic balancer and anything else associated with it?
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Old 22-06-2017, 11:18 PM
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hey mate,

back when i had my 2.8 it developed the hunting idle that your describing. it would drive perfectly fine but when you'd pull up at the lights it would idle anywhere between 1200-2500. the issue ended up being the injection pump, because its electronic it can do these sorts of things. the only other issue is because they are electronic they are more expensive to get rebuilt.

this happened around 215,000kms and it was a 99 model
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Old 25-06-2017, 02:46 PM
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Hey Mate, sounds like this is a turning in to a bit of a nightmare...

As far as parts go Patrolapart have the harmonic balancer listed on their web site. But the signal for the crank position sensor isn't from the harmonic balancer but from a disk attached to the rear of the timing belt crankshaft gear and they also have those available.

If it comes down to it, Denco Diesel have exchange injector pumps. IMO quite reasonable price once you get the core deposit back.
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Old 25-06-2017, 06:49 PM
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When my crank angle sensor (TDC) was causing me issues and throwing a code it wouldn't bunny hop like you've described but my idle did start to fluctuate a little more after ignoring it as it was an intermittent fault that would usually show when coming to idle and drop down to basically stall, was also having to rev it heaps when coming off idle. I'd get that harmonic balancer sorted asap. Could be as simple as a new bolt and **** loads of loctite
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