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  #1  
Old 02-06-2014, 04:27 PM
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Default SD33T Edic Motor

There is always threads and questions asked about edic motors and them not working my patrol won't start or turn off ect etc , So I was looking at a few pics and found some photos of my edic motor pulled apart. So a bit of a thread to sho the inner workings for some that are worried about pulling one apart.

so here goes, once you have removed the edic motor it should look kind like this.
There is a small nut that holds the cable onto the motor 8mm from memory. Just undo thi and the cable and it's little bracket slides off.


Once this is done you need to undo 6 Phillips head screws and take the cover off, Once you have done this you should be left with this.
I just marked every thing to make sure it went back in the same way.





Now you just pull these little bits out. Very easy to do, nothing springs out nothing to loose.


and the under side, you can see the shiny bits, they make contact with the Contacts. Give all this a bit of clean up with warm soapy water.


Honestly, not much goes wrong with these little motors, I believe it just the fact that they get a bit of water and dirt inside them and the contacts don't get a good contact. and the motor just has no idea what to do.
As you can see there is not much inside.
Give this a bit of a clean up. I used contact cleaner and a small piece of light emery paper to clean the contacts..



These motors have a little tube that lets water drain or lets it breath maybe to stop condensation but I believe it let more water in then out, I can't remember if I blocked it up or not but this is where the issue starts.

All cleaned up and ready for the top cover back on .



Like I said there is not a lot too these things and they cause so much trouble, but a simple fix.
Hope this comes in handy for some.
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:39 PM
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It is also worth nothing that there are two slightly different version of the 12v EDIC. The internals are the same and the EDIC's are interchangeable, however the front covers are different.
What I believe is the later version has a drain tube on the front cover whereas the earlier version does not. I will put up a picture tomorrow.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:51 PM
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Not sure mate I know sd33 and sd33t are slightly different , in sd 33 runs a rod between the edic and the IP and the sd33t version uses a cable to turn the pump off/ on
All motors I have torn down have had a drain tube .
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:10 PM
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Great thread mate. Might pull the one off my Black wagon and clean her up, seeing as its been bypassed for a pull-to-stop cable. Certainly gives me a standing for when she's apart. Nothing worse than pulling something apart blindly, and having little springs and ball bearings fly everywhere
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:54 PM
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Forgot to put up the pic. Here it is. The black part is a rubber extension.
This came off my '86.
Front cover reads DPC1-5 and C5Y09

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Old 07-06-2014, 02:02 AM
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Something to consider before stripping down the edic motor is to make sure it is not something else such as the oil pressure sensor telling the edic motor to shut off the fuel.

I had this happen a few years back. Everyone told me it was the edic motor that was stuffed where all the problem was is a dodgy wire connection going to the oil pressure sensor which gave a false oil pressure indication which told the edic controller to shut down the engine.

Here's some more reading if anyones interested.
SD33t surgeing, fuel cut off cutting in & out
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:57 AM
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A friend of mine had this same problem recently happen to him, was some dodgy wiring causing the edic to shut off due to oil pressure sensor.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:40 PM
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very good point, and often over looked . typically the edic troubles shows up on shut down .
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Old 18-06-2014, 09:27 PM
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I spray the cable on mine with silicone as it gets gummed up with mud and grime and stops working as well.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:54 AM
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Cheers bloke. I've had mine on a pull-cable=to=stop bypass for a while now too. Very annoying. Will have to give this a crack........and then everything else that needs tlc.
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Old 29-11-2014, 05:17 AM
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Hi guys thanks for all the write ups, I am a newbie to the 33t and cant get enough of the write ups. I too have a pull cable to turn off engine, thought it was just mine . The engine was a 33 and the key stop worked before the turbo was put on and the ip and edic motor was changed to parts from a turbo engine and then the key shut off wouldnt work.
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Old 29-11-2014, 06:02 AM
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The turbo and n/a pumps have slightly different set ups na runs a shaft/ bar that rotates and turns the pump off . The turbo runs a cable .


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Old 23-12-2016, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wish I Had Coils View Post
There is always threads and questions asked about edic motors and them not working my patrol won't start or turn off ect etc , So I was looking at a few pics and found some photos of my edic motor pulled apart. So a bit of a thread to sho the inner workings for some that are worried about pulling one apart.

so here goes, once you have removed the edic motor it should look kind like this.
There is a small nut that holds the cable onto the motor 8mm from memory. Just undo thi and the cable and it's little bracket slides off.


Once this is done you need to undo 6 Phillips head screws and take the cover off, Once you have done this you should be left with this.
I just marked every thing to make sure it went back in the same way.





Now you just pull these little bits out. Very easy to do, nothing springs out nothing to loose.


and the under side, you can see the shiny bits, they make contact with the Contacts. Give all this a bit of clean up with warm soapy water.


Honestly, not much goes wrong with these little motors, I believe it just the fact that they get a bit of water and dirt inside them and the contacts don't get a good contact. and the motor just has no idea what to do.
As you can see there is not much inside.
Give this a bit of a clean up. I used contact cleaner and a small piece of light emery paper to clean the contacts..



These motors have a little tube that lets water drain or lets it breath maybe to stop condensation but I believe it let more water in then out, I can't remember if I blocked it up or not but this is where the issue starts.

All cleaned up and ready for the top cover back on .



Like I said there is not a lot too these things and they cause so much trouble, but a simple fix.
Hope this comes in handy for some.

Hi mate,

How did you get this a little clip off?
Capture.jpg

thanks
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Old 23-12-2016, 12:04 PM
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From memory , both black pieces just slid off together, nothing held it in there .


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Old 23-12-2016, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wish I Had Coils View Post
From memory , both black pieces just slid off together, nothing held it in there .


Sent from Alf Stewart's rape dungeon .
Thanks, it is too tight, spent the whole morning to get the white gear out.

And in the process I damaged the motor brushes, fortunately they are hold together by springs so it still works.

It turns out that one of the contact connectors wire is broken from behind the circuit board.

Must be too much dirt in it therefore it was very hard to turn the white gear and the stopped motor generated a lot of heat and burn the wire.

I used a thick copper wire to connect the broken one and applied grease to the white gear so it moves freely.

Finally it stops the engine, but I had to remove the pull back spring on the lever. Otherwise it is still not powerful enough to pull it to full stop position.

I might need to source another Edic motor.

BTW, one easy step to test the motor, is to connect the blue/white and black/white cable to the battery directly, it should run.

And another easy diagnosis step is while ignition key is at off position, connect removed edic motor, it should turn to stop position, 4 o'clock. otherwise it is stuck. This is good test before you install the motor.

This is hard learn lesson, as today I removed and install the motor 3 or 4 times, because the wire burned twice.
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:49 PM
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Yeah right well. Worst case in might have an edic motor if need be.


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