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  #1  
Old 05-03-2017, 02:20 PM
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Question What sealant for engine coolant drain plug

Have done a thorough engine cooling system flush on my sd33t and wanting to know what if any sealant should be applied to the engine block drain plug when refitting it?

I don't really like using silicone if there's something more suitable.
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Old 05-03-2017, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
Have done a thorough engine cooling system flush on my sd33t and wanting to know what if any sealant should be applied to the engine block drain plug when refitting it?

I don't really like using silicone if there's something more suitable.
I use Stag Jointing Compound for all this stuff, it is water, petrol, diesel, oil and heat resistant (including steam) and probably a few others I've forgotten, bloody good stuff been using it for 0ver 50 years.

My 2 cents worth.
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:32 AM
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Personaly, I've never needed anything other than good old fashioned Thread Tape.
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Old 06-03-2017, 12:07 PM
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I realise I'm in the wrong thread here, given mines a gu td42t, but personally I've never been able to get the damn thing undone.
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:56 PM
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All good Warty, some things are much of a muchness no matter what the engine.
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Old 06-03-2017, 03:08 PM
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Yes my next job is full flush on my Maverick TD42. I have read bad stories about getting to the plug on the TD42

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I realise I'm in the wrong thread here, given mines a gu td42t, but personally I've never been able to get the damn thing undone.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:48 PM
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Never had to use any sealant on that plug on SD33.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:57 AM
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I've never used any form of sealant on the drain plugs of any of my SD's, no issues so far.

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Originally Posted by warthog View Post
I realise I'm in the wrong thread here, given mines a gu td42t, but personally I've never been able to get the damn thing undone.
If the plugs corroded in there a lot of penetrant and an impact gun will be your best bet.
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:20 AM
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If the plugs corroded in there a lot of penetrant and an impact gun will be your best bet.

It's 10 years since I tried. Always had nissan coolant in there. I may have another go this winter.
I spoke to a mechanic about it. He was worried a rattle gun may just shear the bolt?
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog View Post
It's 10 years since I tried. Always had nissan coolant in there. I may have another go this winter.
I spoke to a mechanic about it. He was worried a rattle gun may just shear the bolt?
If it's run coolant then hopefully it's not rusted, but I guess you never know about the condition of the threads...
I've had a lot more success removing rusty bolts and nuts using an impact, the impacting motion seems to break apart that rust 'seal' (for want of a better term) than the constant twisting torque of a ratchet etc.
I've also had a bit of success hitting a spanner with my hand to shock the bolt loose a little then working it back and forth until ot comes loose. I wouldn't use a hammer since you're applying the force on the end of a lever too much force could shear the bolt. Not sure how that technique will work on an engine block though as access may be limited.
Good luck however you tackle it though.
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2017, 09:09 AM
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Yeah access is very limited. That is the problem.
Shouldn't be corroded. I've always kept coolant mixed with demineralised water in there. Going to put a jpc water pump and g35 fan on it this winter
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:54 AM
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I got a 50ml tube of Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant from SCA a few weeks ago and used it on the diffs, transfer case and engine block. Seems to be working fine so far. The only weird thing about it is it doesn't seem to "set" or go hard. It's staying in a liquid state. Suppose that means come removal time it'll be easier.

It says it's good for hydraulic, pneumatic, fuel and colling systems, but not for plastics or rubber.
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrieK View Post
I got a 50ml tube of Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant from SCA a few weeks ago and used it on the diffs, transfer case and engine block. Seems to be working fine so far. The only weird thing about it is it doesn't seem to "set" or go hard. It's staying in a liquid state. Suppose that means come removal time it'll be easier.

It says it's good for hydraulic, pneumatic, fuel and colling systems, but not for plastics or rubber.
The Stag I suggested earlier has similar qualities, doesn't set like concrete and seals against everything I've ever encountered in the trade. Permatex is a good brand as well that has been around many years.
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:01 PM
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Just a tip shown to me by an old mechanic before the wide spread use of additives.
If rust has built up on the thread of a bolt, give the head a few sharp taps with a hammer. This shocks the thread and it unscrews with a little effort. Once it begins to turn, hit it with a penetrant of some kind.

Don't go nuts with the hammer though!
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Old 13-03-2017, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james008 View Post
If it's run coolant then hopefully it's not rusted, but I guess you never know about the condition of the threads...
I've had a lot more success removing rusty bolts and nuts using an impact, the impacting motion seems to break apart that rust 'seal' (for want of a better term) than the constant twisting torque of a ratchet etc.
I've also had a bit of success hitting a spanner with my hand to shock the bolt loose a little then working it back and forth until ot comes loose. I wouldn't use a hammer since you're applying the force on the end of a lever too much force could shear the bolt. Not sure how that technique will work on an engine block though as access may be limited.
Good luck however you tackle it though.


Just a side note , Don't hit spanners with your hands young James , one main cause of carpel tunnel syndrome.
My brother is just 30 and his hands are stuffed. Already had one op and needs a second on that hand , his other hand is just as bad . Seriously painful .
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Old 13-03-2017, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wish I Had Coils View Post
Just a side note , Don't hit spanners with your hands young James , one main cause of carpel tunnel syndrome.
My brother is just 30 and his hands are stuffed. Already had one op and needs a second on that hand , his other hand is just as bad . Seriously painful .
I second that advice.

On one occasion I got hold of a lot of beautiful wood shelving from a business closing down.

It had all been nailed together with 4" to 6" nails, that's how old it was.

I set about recovering the timbers and then had to remove all the nails, which I did with a claw hammer and pinch bar.

They were tough to get out, and of course I banged them with my hand, yanked them with my arm, repeated many times.

Finished up with carpal tunnel, tennis elbow, and golfer's elbow all at once. That was a painful time in my life - made worse when I read up on it and discovered it may never heal.....

It did, with the help of an Osteo, ice packs, heat packs, and tens device, over about 12 months. Was very tedious.
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Old 14-03-2017, 09:10 AM
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Seem I may have to rethink some of my working habits.
Cheers, don't want to end up with carpal tunnel...
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Old 15-03-2017, 01:41 PM
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Thread tape for that job.
And James never hit anything with your hand until you make a fist.
Cheers
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