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  #1  
Old 22-12-2016, 08:00 PM
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Default On the Y62 where should the ground be sourced from?

On the y62 I'm wiring up 12V at the rear for an Anderson plug to charge caravan batteries via a Projecta IDC25 dc-dc mounted in the van. The 12V + is coming from the battery (via a fuse) and switched via a relay (ignition on), just wondering wether the ground needs to be at the battery terminal post or off the chassis earth screw. The current sense is in the battery earth lead so wondering which side of this I should connect to.

Appreciate you thoughts and advise.

Cheers BruceR
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Old 22-12-2016, 09:28 PM
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On the body. Definitely not on the terminal.

Moot point if you "snip the red wire" to disable the variable voltage alternator. If you keep the smarts, check that your charger will continue to charge even when the main battery voltage drops (below 12V quite regularly).
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Old 23-12-2016, 04:25 PM
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Thanks TI.62, yep auto elec was going to wire straight to the battery and we got into a bit of a dispute so I'll just do it myself the way it's supposed to be. Infact its all up and running now, securing the relay within the fuse box. Just a tidy up tomorrow and a couple of labels so I can remember 6mths later what is what (also have wired P3 brake controller). Used the VDC fuse position as it just seemed easier but someone let me know if I shouldn't.
Still to come a bar ....and some lights...oh and a uhf. Oh well, bit by bit, at least the wife will be happy to have the fridge going in the van while underway at night (no solar).

Cheers BruceR
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Old 24-12-2016, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjrow View Post
what (also have wired P3 brake controller). Used the VDC fuse position as it just seemed easier but someone let me know if I shouldn't.

Do you mean that you tapped the VDC fuse to power the P3? The brake controller should run straight to the +Ve of the battery via its own 20A autoreset circuit breaker.
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Old 24-12-2016, 09:57 AM
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Hi Ti.62, no not for the P3, the VDC supply is just for powering the isolation relay coil that inturn connects battery power to the rear Anderson connection when the vehicle is running.
Hope that clears things up!

Cheers BruceR
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Old 28-12-2016, 06:42 PM
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just on the brake controller
.. this might help http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/4840777-post8.html
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:59 AM
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OK time for an update.
Back from holidays and the 5hr trip each way went well.
Using the Projector IDC25 in the van with the car suppling battery power when the ignition was on kept the van batteries charged without accidently discharging the car battery when off.
Ground was from the chassis, +12V taken after a reset 70Amp fuse and 35Amp blade fuse. The switching relay (70Amp NARVA 4 pin) was triggered by the VDC line using an add a circuit.
The 70Amp reset fuse is also used to power the P3 brake controller via a 30Amp inline resettable fuse.
Cheers BruceR.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:09 AM
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Hey Bruce,

If I may provide you the following suggestion - ensure your electric brake controller has it's own, independent power supply (including circuit breaker/fuses etc) - not shared with your DC-DC charger. If I recall correctly, that recommendation is part of the installation instructions of every electric brake controller on the market.

It would be unfortunate, and potentially dangerous, if you were to lose your electric brakes due to an issue occurring on your DC-DC charger circuit.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ants_oz View Post
Hey Bruce,

If I may provide you the following suggestion - ensure your electric brake controller has it's own, independent power supply (including circuit breaker/fuses etc) - not shared with your DC-DC charger. If I recall correctly, that recommendation is part of the installation instructions of every electric brake controller on the market.

It would be unfortunate, and potentially dangerous, if you were to lose your electric brakes due to an issue occurring on your DC-DC charger circuit.
Absobloodylutely, heavy cable to limit voltage drop and full isolation from other circuits, mine runs through a 40 amp circuit breaker.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:36 AM
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Thanks for the heads up, the 35Amp inline blade fuse for the dc-dc should go first tho....well in theory.
Have considered going straight to the battery for the brakes but each time I could not commit to this path hence the 70 Amp manual reset relay should something go really bad.
Having said this, I stupidly forgot to plug the boat trailer wiring harness in a few weeks back and towed 2.7T thru some hills into Eildon before wondering if I had forgot, was only doing 40 - 60 k's/hr thru twisty bits but the Patrols' brakes were well and truly up to the job. Funny thing the trailer plug was still right where I left it before getting distracted by the Mrs asking Q's and needing help. Lesson learnt to do a final walk around before driving away.
Cheers BruceR.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:00 AM
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Oh, and electric brakes should be through a self-resetting circuit breaker (not manual reset).

Just suggestions mate - what you choose to do is entirely up to you

It does raise alarm bells to me though, when you say that you towed with the brakes disconnected and it wasn't immediately obvious to you that you had not hooked them up. Sounds very much like some adjustment is needed in the system because driving the same vehicle as you (with only30k on the odo - so original brakes are still in pretty good nick) I can immediately tell that my van brakes are working.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:28 AM
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Hi Ants_oz, yep understand your point.
For the electric brakes the +12V of the battery goes to the 70Amp manual reset fuse then onto a self resettable 30A fuse for the brake controller.
The boat brakes are different to the van ones being electric over hydraulic, cannot really lock them up unlike the van ones however are nice and smooth and seem to pull up without much fuss compared with the van. The van is 3.1T so it's a little different, the brakes seem more "grabby" and one can certainly hear them working hard in an emergency stop situation. Backing off the controller settings a tad gives it a more progressive feel but at low speeds the braking action seems a little delayed to me. At higher speeds with the boat I'm sure I would have noticed the extra effort to stop but I do use the manual gears mostly to slow down and take off again to keep things smooth without having to jump on the brakes all the time. In an emergency stop things would have been a lot different no doubt.
Cheers BruceR
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