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  #1  
Old 18-05-2017, 03:32 PM
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Default Roadsafe Recovery Points on GU4 ZD30

Hi guys, Sorry if this has been covered already, but I had a read and couldnt find the answer I was looking for:

Ive bought a set of Roadsafe recovery points for my GU4 3.0.

The fitting instructions (http://roadsafe.com.au/wp-content/up...ment-Guide.pdf) say two nuts on wires (supplied) are required for passenger side, but I bolted the passenger side straight up (top holes).

Obviously I could just grind the wires off the nuts on wires and use the nuts for the side holes, but am I missing something???

Heres some pics, also the leftover parts from the kit (without sides bolted) are in one pic.

One other thing, am I using the washer correctly ie. flat washer to chassis > spring washer > bolt head?

Drivers side from outside:



Drivers side from inside:




Passenger side from outside:



Passenger side from inside:



Bits left over (smaller diameter bolts than vertical 4 bolts, rock not part of kit)...


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  #2  
Old 18-05-2017, 03:40 PM
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Default Bolt Torque specs

Also, with the bolt torque specs supplied.

What are the vertical columns?

Are the steps for reaching final torque setting (right hand column?)

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Old 18-05-2017, 03:47 PM
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Here are the fitting instructions:

Fitted to GU Patrol series 3 onwards –
Each side uses 2 x M14x1.5mm (Vertical plane into the chassis) Hi tensile bolts supplied,
and one factory bolt into the side profile as pictured.
Passenger side requires 2 nuts on wires (supplied) to be installed into the chassis
rail, this will require the bumper/bull bar to be removed on some models, Check
your chassis before fitment.
Ensure 3 bolts per tow point are fitted and torqued to recommended settings to
ensure tow points meet tested standards.
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Old 18-05-2017, 05:11 PM
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You need to put a third bolt through the side hole. Some models don't have the captive nuts in the chassis already, some do.
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Old 18-05-2017, 05:27 PM
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I've had the same recovery points on a series 3 patrol with only two bolts as pictured for years with no issue. Can't remeber if I have captive nuts on passenger side or not.

You shouldn't have an issue as is but could do what ACM suggests for piece of mind.
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Old 18-05-2017, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_ron View Post
Also, with the bolt torque specs supplied.

What are the vertical columns?

Are the steps for reaching final torque setting (right hand column?)

Each column is specific to the high-tensile bolt being used. Look at the head of the bolts you have, you will see a number that corresponds to the headings in those charts. Most likely 8.8. It's the specified strength of the bolt. The leftmost column is the diameter of the bolt thread. Match the tensile rating to the bolt thread diameter and set torque accordingly.

Your fitting instructions say M14, so your torque setting for 8.8 bolts is 112-168Nm. That's a fair bit, and if you don't have a torque wrench you can pretty much just do it up as tight as you physically can and you'll be in the ballpark. If you were going into alloy I'd say use a torque wrench but you're going into steel that you can't screw up.

Yes you have the assembly correct - flat washer to chassis, then spring washer.

You can put a lateral bolt into each side as well but personally I wouldn't bother, you have some very solid recovery points there. Use a pair of rated shackles and an equaliser strap and you won't ever be at risk of pulling a recovery point out during a recovery.
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Old 19-05-2017, 01:16 AM
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I believe that same recovery hook is also supplied with the drilled bolt hole spacing and bolts to fit an 80 or 100 series Cruiser, so the instructions may be a bit generic including the nuts on wires for those models that don't have the captive nuts in the chassis.

I also agree that it is better to put a bolt through the side hole as well. MY ARB bar has the mounting brackets come down over that lower tie down plate hanging down plate on the chassis and so there is a bolt through the bull bar mount, through that plate and through my recovery brackets holding them all together for added sheer strength.

PS: Have to say that all other Roadsafe gear I have not been overly impressed with, but those brackets look massively strong, neat and fit well. Good Choice.
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Old 19-05-2017, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geordie4x4 View Post
I believe that same recovery hook is also supplied with the drilled bolt hole spacing and bolts to fit an 80 or 100 series Cruiser, so the instructions may be a bit generic including the nuts on wires for those models that don't have the captive nuts in the chassis.

I also agree that it is better to put a bolt through the side hole as well. MY ARB bar has the mounting brackets come down over that lower tie down plate hanging down plate on the chassis and so there is a bolt through the bull bar mount, through that plate and through my recovery brackets holding them all together for added sheer strength.

PS: Have to say that all other Roadsafe gear I have not been overly impressed with, but those brackets look massively strong, neat and fit well. Good Choice.
Thanks everyone, I ended up putting the smaller bolts through the sides and snapping the wires off the supplied nuts.

Due to my impatience I torqued the bolts to 162 without checking the tensile rating... I will have a look tonight Would that of reduced the integrity of the bolts if I overtightened?
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Old 19-05-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geordie4x4 View Post
I believe that same recovery hook is also supplied with the drilled bolt hole spacing and bolts to fit an 80 or 100 series Cruiser, so the instructions may be a bit generic including the nuts on wires for those models that don't have the captive nuts in the chassis.

I also agree that it is better to put a bolt through the side hole as well. MY ARB bar has the mounting brackets come down over that lower tie down plate hanging down plate on the chassis and so there is a bolt through the bull bar mount, through that plate and through my recovery brackets holding them all together for added sheer strength.

PS: Have to say that all other Roadsafe gear I have not been overly impressed with, but those brackets look massively strong, neat and fit well. Good Choice.
I havn't seen any of the other Roadsafe gear, but these were definitely very strong and weighty feeling, and the bloke at ARB recommended them over the ARB ones for the patrol.

I also went in there to see what underbody protection they had, he mentioned he never really ran any on his patrols as the diff / live axel does most of the protection for you, and the stock plastic guard stops the rocks and what not going up into the belt /engine bay.

What do you guys run for front underbody protection?
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Old 19-05-2017, 11:02 AM
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ARB one is heaps better 5 bolts
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Old 19-05-2017, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_ron View Post
I havn't seen any of the other Roadsafe gear, but these were definitely very strong and weighty feeling, and the bloke at ARB recommended them over the ARB ones for the patrol.
Probably not the thread for it but I was having a little dig at Roadsafe, I have had bad run mostly with bushes, tie rod ends, sway bar rod ends and other rubber parts. Like a lot of parts suppliers these days, they don't make it them selves so on some components they source cheap stuff from Chinese manufacturers. So you pick and choose, look carefully and like these brackets they are so massively strong, there are no bushes or anything else to fail, then as long as the bolts are bolted on well and share load points like the side bolts as well then they are ten times stronger than the old factory tow point.



Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_ron View Post
I also went in there to see what underbody protection they had, he mentioned he never really ran any on his patrols as the diff / live axel does most of the protection for you, and the stock plastic guard stops the rocks and what not going up into the belt /engine bay.

What do you guys run for front underbody protection?
The factory plastic thing is more of an air deflector to promote air flow out through the engine bay. Yes it does deflect stones from going up into the belts, but they are a bit weak if you bottom out nose down such as going up over an obstacle. So a lot of us make or buy a stronger version to cover the same area and to extend forward under the radiator to the bull bar and stop branches, rocks going up into the radiator.

I made one but it was a fair bit of work. There are now a few decent bash plates on the market from Superior, Brown-Davies I think do one and I saw a nice one with a Geko printed on it not sure who that is from.

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Old 19-05-2017, 11:42 AM
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ARB
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Old 19-05-2017, 03:30 PM
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Sydo that's new?
It must be the only one, certainly only that I have see that picks up all the available bolts the three up inside the vertical part of the chassis and the two from the original hook under the chassis.

Do they do both sides and I won't hazard a guess at the price because that Ferrari Red paint job alone has gotta be expensive.
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Old 19-05-2017, 03:48 PM
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Another question for Sydo, do they sit on the inside or outside of the chassis rail, because if they sit on the inside then the photo must be for a left handed one.

There is no way that they will fit my Patrol if they go on the inside because the radiator and shroud leaves a very narrow gap.

Looks very solid though.
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Old 19-05-2017, 03:58 PM
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Old 19-05-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_ron View Post
I havn't seen any of the other Roadsafe gear, but these were definitely very strong and weighty feeling, and the bloke at ARB recommended them over the ARB ones for the patrol.

I also went in there to see what underbody protection they had, he mentioned he never really ran any on his patrols as the diff / live axel does most of the protection for you, and the stock plastic guard stops the rocks and what not going up into the belt /engine bay.

What do you guys run for front underbody protection?
I don't understand your ARB guy
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Old 19-05-2017, 04:35 PM
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Just fitted a set to my 2014 Y61. All vertical threaded nuts were already in place. Easy install. I had to replace the two "side bolts", which were already securing the bull bar, with longer bolts to accommodate the thickness of the recovery points. All good.
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Old 19-05-2017, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_ron View Post
What do you guys run for front underbody protection?
I run the bush skin bashplate (series 3 specific) on the front. It replaces the plastic shroud and also protects the steering components. 5mm thick and reasonable light given its size.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/302297066912
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Old 19-05-2017, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
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ARB


Yeh that definitely looks tougher! The side mounting point above the vertical bolts where the toadsafe ones go too


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Old 19-05-2017, 08:44 PM
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Toadsafe love it
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