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View Poll Results: What was the single biggest factor in solving your death wobbles
King pin preload adjustment 8 25.00%
New panhard rod bushes 11 34.38%
Wheel bearing adjustment 3 9.38%
Caster bushes 1 3.13%
Wheel alignment 4 12.50%
Draglink ball joints 2 6.25%
Steering box adjustment 0 0%
Up grade of steering damper 1 3.13%
Replacement of shock rubbers and or shocks 2 6.25%
Voters: 32. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old 13-10-2016, 06:34 AM
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I'm going through this atm and trying to sort it out is doing me head in. Anyone know where to get a decent dynamic (inner and outer) balance in perth? May have to rebuild 1 x shock, have just replaced panhard bushes. Adjusted wheel bearings. Will sort it but in the meantime... painful
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  #22  
Old 13-10-2016, 09:07 AM
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Unfortunately, not in Perth at this time.

I use Mathew at Peel Tyres in Mandurah now.

He does truck and light truck stuff as well as passenger, and so has the right equipment.

So I would be looking for someone like that in your area. The chain store tyre shops should be avoided.

With the exception of Beaurepaires, you can go to one of their commercial centres in either Kewdale or Canning Vale, they do a lot of fleet, light truck, semi work in those areas.

I also used these blokes once, lost a few weights when up in the hills around Kalamunda and the vibration was really bad, was recommended to use them and they did a good job.

Drive Straight for Wheel Alignments Suspension Brakes for all Trucks Trailers Buses 4WD

They are in Welshpool, but it was some time ago.
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  #23  
Old 13-10-2016, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DB-101 View Post
Unfortunately, not in Perth at this time.

I use Mathew at Peel Tyres in Mandurah now.

He does truck and light truck stuff as well as passenger, and so has the right equipment.

So I would be looking for someone like that in your area. The chain store tyre shops should be avoided.

With the exception of Beaurepaires, you can go to one of their commercial centres in either Kewdale or Canning Vale, they do a lot of fleet, light truck, semi work in those areas.

I also used these blokes once, lost a few weights when up in the hills around Kalamunda and the vibration was really bad, was recommended to use them and they did a good job.

Drive Straight for Wheel Alignments Suspension Brakes for all Trucks Trailers Buses 4WD

They are in Welshpool, but it was some time ago.
Cheers bud. Happy to drive where ever if they know what they are doing. Wheel alignment cant be that hard can it?
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  #24  
Old 13-10-2016, 10:53 AM
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Wheel alignment on a patrol for most shops is only Toe adjustment as rest of adjustments require bearing change(camber) or spacers/bushes (castor).
Mates 96 ST ute standard hieght has never had an issue unless mud build up in rim.
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  #25  
Old 14-12-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DB-101 View Post
From my perspective, wheel bearings are also up there as a major. Pre-load (aka starting force) is stated as 4.3ft-lbs, some make the mistake that this is the load on the bearing as applied to the lock nut. It is not, it is the resistance of the whole hub to any rotation.

The actual bearing pre-load is 43ft-lbs as applied via the bearing lock nut tool.
Holy sh*t I rebuilt my swivel hubs last week with no improvement, king pin bearings, cleaned and re-greased CVs, new axle seals, re-fitted all shims, cleaned and re-greased wheels bearings then set them to 4.6 ft-lb which i thought was loose! Thanks db, I know what ill be doing first thing when i get home next week!
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  #26  
Old 10-01-2017, 05:25 PM
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So a bit of a dig but I'm still chasing my intermittent wobble/bounce. It's an '04 coil cab with 2" OME lift, 285s, 2 degree castor correction bushes. There has always been a slight wobble since I've owned it, but never enough to bother me up until the last 5000k's or so, it has gotten worse. But its not every time I drive it, some days I can sit on 85kph and it handles perfect, then some days I can feel it slightly coming in at 70kph and by 80kph my beer gut is jiggling it's that bad

So far I've done Panhard bushes (Genuine rubber), removed kingpin shims with no difference, rebuilt the swivel hubs and replaced shims, tightened wheel bearings to spec, draglink/tierod ends replaced with superior engineering goodies, re-checked all shock mounts, re-checked radius arm nuts but it still comes in between 75-90kph. Mind you after all this work when it decides to drive right it feels a million times better, so all that work hasn't been pointless, I'm just annoyed this is my 3rd patrol and the only one that decides to shake its head. I'm leaning towards steering box? is there any way of testing this or adjusting it?
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  #27  
Old 10-01-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleBryan View Post
So a bit of a dig but I'm still chasing my intermittent wobble/bounce. It's an '04 coil cab with 2" OME lift, 285s, 2 degree castor correction bushes. There has always been a slight wobble since I've owned it, but never enough to bother me up until the last 5000k's or so, it has gotten worse. But its not every time I drive it, some days I can sit on 85kph and it handles perfect, then some days I can feel it slightly coming in at 70kph and by 80kph my beer gut is jiggling it's that bad

So far I've done Panhard bushes (Genuine rubber), removed kingpin shims with no difference, rebuilt the swivel hubs and replaced shims, tightened wheel bearings to spec, draglink/tierod ends replaced with superior engineering goodies, re-checked all shock mounts, re-checked radius arm nuts but it still comes in between 75-90kph. Mind you after all this work when it decides to drive right it feels a million times better, so all that work hasn't been pointless, I'm just annoyed this is my 3rd patrol and the only one that decides to shake its head. I'm leaning towards steering box? is there any way of testing this or adjusting it?
You've had the same tyres and wheels on the same corner through all this?
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  #28  
Old 10-01-2017, 07:57 PM
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Everything except the radius arm bushes. You never know how bad they are until you pull the arms out. These looked good whilst the am was in the vehicle, but they were torn just enough for the wobbles (violent wobbles) to occur. https://youtu.be/zW67dbnrJ8M

Thee other thing is to remove the shims from the kingpin caps.

Mick
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ACMPatrol View Post
You've had the same tyres and wheels on the same corner through all this?
Nah I've tried a roatation, 2 different balances, swapped a mates 33's on for a drive and always the same, drives perfect for 5-10kms, hit a few bumps or some corugation in the road or turn a corner and in it comes.

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Originally Posted by Mpltm View Post
Everything except the radius arm bushes. You never know how bad they are until you pull the arms out. These looked good whilst the am was in the vehicle, but they were torn just enough for the wobbles (violent wobbles) to occur. https://youtu.be/zW67dbnrJ8M

Thee other thing is to remove the shims from the kingpin caps.

Mick
They're brand new king pin bearings and cups, the pre-load is fine with the standard shims, I'm not going to over-tighten them to mask another issue.

Ive read about adjusting the play in the steering box, I'll try this when I'm back from work as it sounds like a simple job, and it makes sense to me that this could cause it to do it occasionally rather than all the time?

cheers guys.
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  #30  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:25 AM
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have u checked the steering coupling
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  #31  
Old 11-01-2017, 09:49 AM
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Do you mean the arm that comes off the steering box?
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