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Old 08-09-2013, 09:06 AM
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Default Inlet manifold removal and clean

G'day all

I'm hunting for a little advice regarding the best way to get the inlet manifold off for a clean. I had the intercooler and rocker cover off yesterday in order to replace a leaky rocker cover gasket, and in the process was able to get a look in to the top of the inlet manifold. One side was fairly clean, the other side was full of rubbish and restricted in the neck at the top (could feel with finger, lots of crap was able to be pulled out).

Looking at taking the inlet manifold off however, there seems to be a lot that needs undoing in order to get it off. Looks to be some hard (oil?) pipes that run from inside the rocker cover out and over the bolts holding the inlet manifold in place.

Alternatively, do any of you own a workshop manual that details the process? Virtually all manuals I've seen come wrapped in plastic, so I've not bothered buying one yet since I'm not sure what it covers.

Any specifics are always appreciated!
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:35 AM
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Default inlet cleaning

Hi anakaine.... you may wish to have a look at this thread..

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...B9UBnjmMY_lbWQ

Take lots of photo's as you launch into this task... not hard just takes time.

Gaskets I scourced from SMS Diesel... genuine articles at about 1/4 the cost.

Petrol does a great job of removing this gunge... I used a stiff bristled baby bottle brush..

Best of luck .... just take it easy.

My 2 bobs worth
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:46 AM
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Thanks q8160

I guess I was hoping for a little advice on how to actually get the thing off Got a to a point yesterday where the way forward was just not obvious.

What pieces have got to come off before the inlet manifold?

Intercooler
Butteryfly valve
Intercooler wiring harness bracket
Disconnect egr inlet pipe
Then?
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Last edited by anakaine; 08-09-2013 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Horrible spelling.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:01 AM
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Just work from the top..... think it out as you go... take photos to follow on reassembly. And as you remove bolts and bits, use clip lock bags, write on where they came from. Even tab then back to the photo on your camera.

The back most manifold stud... be careful ( can't remember if it is a stud and nut or a bolt).... this one can cause a bit of pain.... if it is a stud then replace it with a bolt to make it easier for manifold refit.. Handbrake is away in Patrol, sorry I can't lift the bonnet and have a look... when you see it you will know what I mean.

If I remember the job took me about 6-8 hours, even squeesing in a couple of drinkies.....

Cheers

Last edited by q8160; 08-09-2013 at 10:04 AM. Reason: add
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anakaine View Post
Thanks q8160

I guess I was hoping for a little adive on how to actually get the thing off Got a to a point yesterday where they way forward was just not obvious.

What pieces have got to come off before the inlet manifold?

Intercooler
Butteryfly valve
Intercooler wiring harness bracket
Disconnect egr inlet pipe
Then?
What you listed above is a walk in the park comparing to the rest of the job.

You will be in the world of pain I can tell you that. I'm a pro and I'm telling you I will not be doing to do that job again. There are so many pitfalls not to mention the possibilities for stuffing something up that for inexperienced person I advise against. The whole set up is like a mechanical jigsaw puzzle.

If you are going to do it than be prepared/allow for plenty of time and a possibility that the time you have allocated is not enough. Attention to details and documenting every step (take photo of the assembly before going next)

Probably the worst part is the actual cleaning of the manifold its a horribly messy job I recommend access to pressure/steam cleaner.

Also be advised than removing injection pipes will result in having to need a good battery s because you'll be cranking the engine for a while the pipes and injectors can get self purge of air before it fires up. They're also fun to remove and reinstall. Having set of stubby spanners is beneficial.


Yo don't need to drain coolant just rotate/move the EGR valve with hoses still connected (they're flexible enough) so it is out of the way.

If you are not mechanically minded, have no garage/shed and right equipment I recommend not to tackle the job.

Oh and that bastard of a fastener at the back of the manifold is a stud and rather too long! It is also used to locate the manifold when refitting so replacing it with bolt opens up a new possibilities.

Cheers
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:12 AM
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rumcajs - probably the honesty that I needed - thanks.

q8160 - Thanks for the advice, by the sounds of it I will probably be calling in the pros for this one.

Now that I know how much gunk is in it, it's that burden of knowledge knowing that the pin has possibly been pulled on the grenade.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:13 AM
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Im looking at doing this job soon as well.

q8160 - which gaskets are needed? is it just the inlet manifold and the throttle body gaskets or are there others im forgetting?

Cheers
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_f View Post
Im looking at doing this job soon as well.

q8160 - which gaskets are needed? is it just the inlet manifold and the throttle body gaskets or are there others im forgetting?

Cheers
Hi, was quite awhile ago that I did this job, from memory there was only two gaskets needed or should I say I recollect buying.....the intake to head gasket and the one that couples the turbo onto the Y junction at the IC. The EGR gaskets I used a smear of heat resistant silicone.

If you take your time, blank all open lines and fittings with proper blanks, take photos, and approach the job like a jigsaw, meaning, there is always a sequence for disassembly, same as there is for reassembly.

Check Ebay for a electronic manual, like $10, There is also freebie downloads, however I don't have the link, sorry

As already said, if you have any doubt about your ability then spending the dollars for someone else to do the job while you stay calm/cool and collected while enjoying a beer could be the way to go.

You will find some very tight nuts/bolts..... Snap-On tools have always been my tool of choice, six and twelve point sockets etc means good quality and easier on the hands.....if you are using SNAP-OFF tools (el-cheapies), then you may run into a bit of grief..

It's not a hard job ---- just tedious.......and petrol dissolves this gunge with ease.

Be warned though ....... this is a messy horrible black cr@p everywhere job, so don't antagonise the Director of Finance and use the laundry office as a workshop/cleaning bay.

Good Luck
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:20 PM
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I have had no mechanical use on any diesel engine before, not even lawn mowers. Took me 2x days but that was probably only 5-6 hrs each day.

Only gaskets that needed to be replaced was the rocker cover gasket, the inlet manifold and throttle body are both metal and clean up well as ling as you dont damage them when taking them off. I also replaced the injector seals while the injector lines are out.

Trickiest part was the injector lines trying to get them all lined up and tighten one at a time was a pain. I used a karcher pressure cleaner which got further in then the bottle brush and cleaned it up like new.

Use a old plastic tackle box to hold each sections bolts etc as there are a few and deff x100 on taking pics on each step. Saved me tonnes.

2003 Nissan Patrol GU zd30 auto wagon. sent using tapatalk on me samsung galaxy s4
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Old 13-09-2013, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for the replies nicabocca, q8160.

I might save this job for when I have a spare week. I've got all the gaskets and bits - now it's just about confidence.

Did you need to get inside the crank case at all?

Looks like there's some fixed pipes in there that run out through/past the inlet manifold that will get in the way.
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Old 14-09-2013, 12:40 PM
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No. Intercooler, throttle body, vacum hoses and earth cables, injector lines before the egr unit, egr unit, then you should be able to get to the manifold bolts quite easy. Obviously there is some other pipes etc you may need to just move out od the road, but leave the rocker cover on till you have the manifold back on, saves dropping stuff by accident. Only reason beside cleaning the manifold to have it off is to replace the injector seals. I can go into a bit more detail if needed. Otherwise search up one.of my of my other posts where I went through what I did. Remember it was my 1st time aswell.

2003 Nissan Patrol GU zd30 auto wagon. sent using tapatalk on me samsung galaxy s4
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Old 14-09-2013, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumcajs View Post
What you listed above is a walk in the park comparing to the rest of the job.
You will be in the world of pain I can tell you that. I'm a pro and I'm telling you I will not be doing to do that job again. There are so many pitfalls not to mention the possibilities for stuffing something up that for inexperienced person I advise against. The whole set up is like a mechanical jigsaw puzzle.

If you are going to do it than be prepared/allow for plenty of time and a possibility that the time you have allocated is not enough. Attention to details and documenting every step (take photo of the assembly before going next)
Probably the worst part is the actual cleaning of the manifold its a horribly messy job I recommend access to pressure/steam cleaner.

Also be advised than removing injection pipes will result in having to need a good battery s because you'll be cranking the engine for a while the pipes and injectors can get self purge of air before it fires up. They're also fun to remove and reinstall. Having set of stubby spanners is beneficial.

Yo don't need to drain coolant just rotate/move the EGR valve with hoses still connected (they're flexible enough) so it is out of the way.

If you are not mechanically minded, have no garage/shed and right equipment I recommend not to tackle the job.

Oh and that bastard of a fastener at the back of the manifold is a stud and rather too long! It is also used to locate the manifold when refitting so replacing it with bolt opens up a new possibilities.

Cheers
As someone who has a lot of mechanical experience on many engines but, as I get older, a little less enthusiasm for certain jobs, I looked at this after I did my CCIC and cleaned the throttle body and saw the amount of s*** below that point, after much consideration I said Bugga it, water injection will do the same job just take a little longer to achieve and I get other benefits.

If the OP is just looking to gain experience and tackle a challenge then go for it and as RumCajs says, be methodical and document every move, we all think we have great memories but that is not always the case when the crunch comes, might I suggest small containers with name tags for small bits if you do go ahead.
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Old 14-09-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeyoutoo View Post
.............after much consideration I said Bugga it, water injection will do the same job just take a little longer to achieve and I get other benefits.
...........................

Well, ain't that the truth.
When I was replacing the glow plugs I had a closer look and thought maybe it is time to do something about that inlet manifold gasket I've had sitting on the shelf in the shed for 18 months.

So got a little carried away and after couple of hours manifold was nearly off, indeed it just sat there loose on the front and rear studs and there I was facing the biggest challenge of the whole job. How to get the manifold past the EGR pipe( from exhaust manifold to EGR valve) bracket The Nissan instruction says to take it (pipe) off but that would add another hour to the job including the removal of the dreaded heat shield. It was the sinking feeling coming so close.

So removed the stud with great difficulties thought the manifold would be out.
Not quite the bracket was still in the way. So finally decided to do what any professional does when gentle art of "mind over matter" is called for and bent the fcuking bracket out of the way while skinning off my knuckles on every object in the vicinity. Ouch! The manifold is out .

Several hours of cleaning the bastard while cursing everything Japanese, overcome by petrol fumes and covered with black tar like goo all over I was ready for assembly which was relatively easy just repeat the previous steps.

Thinking about pre priming fuel lines (cause I know how hard it is to get VP44 fuelled truck engines to start after injection lines are dismantled/removed and refitted, I decided to "wing" it and hoped I wouldn't have the difficulties later. Big mistake!

When engine finally fired back to life after 40 minutes of cranking and priming the fuel primer it only did it just. Both the primary and secondary battery had enough and were for all the purpose completely flat.

Job done! Wiser and another experience I'd rather forget.

Enjoy!
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