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Dan's CRD 2012 build and list of mods...

50K views 204 replies 22 participants last post by  mad possum 
#1 ·
So I wanted to keep a log of the mods I've done to my CRD, make a kind of list for others to copy if they wish. I shall attempt to attach a photo or link when describing mods. I have previously owned a 4.8 Patrol and a 2.5L CRD D22 Navara.

Mine is a 2012 ST that I bought second hand in 2016 with 55,000km on the clock. The previous owner had a good taste for things and had added a nice list of mods. of the ones that count was a genuine nissan snorkel and a 3"redback exhaust. Its running 285/70/17R AT's.

This combo resulted in a fuel figure of 15.3L/100km when I first got it.

It's an auto so running 4:3 diff gears. If future mods don't resolve the low down power issues then some 4:6's will be on the wish list.

I have done the auto line pressure resistor mod, all I can say is it's the best 86 cents I've ever spent at Jaycar. I have some metal jacketed resistors to replace the jay car ones but haven't had time to swap them out yet. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/niss...ne-pressure-solenoid-dropping-resistor-35866/

Gauges where next on the list, VDO looked good, they blend with the factory. Will post more later about them. I opted for 3 gauges, Boost, pyro and Auto temp. I also have an EDS scanner for code reading and seeing a digital water temp reading. This has allowed me to remove the stock boost control and fit a Tillix and needle valve. https://www.tillix.com.au/product/b...l-zd30-di-crd-including-boost-pickup-adaptor/

So this did wonders for my fuel consumption and dropped it down to 14.5/100 instantly. I was enjoying it but still annoyed with the flat spot down low on initial take off. So some further research showed that I should probably improve the air flow into the turbo, thereby improving it's efficiency. So the following happened.

Firstly, I removed the mesh filters from the air intake. on the CRD there are 2. one on top of the air box and the other just before the maf. this is a 2min job, simply pop them out with a sharp knife. This should not cause an issue with limp mode in the CRD. it may in the Di. (I am no expert in these matters so simply repeating what I've read. however I can tell you that I had no issues with my vehicle). So it resulted in a slight improvement in low down power. Geeyoutoo has done some amazing research and maths in regards to this issue. Note the Di has 3 screens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FvtgM9VYeo

A K&N air filter was another mild improvement. the argument will never end about these, but I'm happy with it. Do your own research on it make your own judgement.

In search of further usable power.... the fight with the 3L engine continued. The next most restrictive point in the air intake is the air box lid itself. Now u can go and spend $395 and get a pre made kit to replace it, or you can spend ~$70 on parts and with a few tools replace it yourself. Now this mod has been life changing, it's the holy grail. whoever the engineer was that originally designed the ZD30 airbox should be shoved in it and pushed out of the turbo. Here's the link to the part you'll need. Donaldson Rubber 90° Cobra Adaptor (Diam: (a) 76 mm/3" (b) 76mm) P547694 | eBay
Here's a write up much better than I could do on how to do it. took me 3hrs fussing around. Pictures and all http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-modifications-accessories-40/gu-diesel-airbox-lid-mod-50186/

Or here's the kit from HPD if you got the cash. NISSAN PATROL ZD30 AIR BOX LID - $395 : HP Diesel, Performance kits for your 4WD

Now, of course non of this is worth it without some sort of proof or results. Well my fuel consumption (I can never say economy after owning a 4.8 again even tho I had a good one) dropped down to 13.4L/100 after all this. not bad in my books! No longer having a flat spot down low is an amazing feeling.

Not to be discounted is the pyro figures. Before these mods (other than the ones that originally came with the vehicle - 3" exhaust and snorkel), it was possible by keeping the foot down flat to reach 500 degrees EGT doing 0-100, now I'm lucky to see 420 and I can do it faster. The cobra head mod has been the one mostly responsible for this, dropped cruising temps by around 50-60 degrees. it also recovers from high temps much faster.

Future mods will hopefully a replacement larger intercooler, remap and maybe chip, diff gears and reduction gears, widening the intake into the airbox to 4" from snorkel to box and replacement larger intercooler pipe work.

A fairly quick mod that makes everyday life better was the main tank capacity mod. This is the 2nd patrol I've done this to and being about to fit an extra 12L into the main tank is just lovely. thats almost an extra 100km of range for my 3L. Do it, all you have to do is bend the breather up as far as your fingers can push it. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-...ing-standard-main-sub-tank-capacities-259217/

I should add, these fuel figures are with 285/70/17, 2" lift, bull bar, light bar and roof rack so it's by no means a stocko.

Look forward to your recommendations and ideas.
 
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#3 ·
Sorry, I had meant to attach a general descriptive photo earlier. Here's the patrol on the top of Mt Useful (up the back of Walhalla). Can strongly recommend the tracks around there, it has a bit for everyone.
 

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#4 ·
The airbox lid mod. This itself gained the system an extra pound of boost without any other modification. The turbo has to work that much less to spool up. I run 15.5 PSI so I needed to to adjust my Tillix and needle valve down as it spooled up much faster and max boost put me into the limp zone for the CRD (over 16psi for 10sec will get cause the ECU to throw a code and cut fuel)
 

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#5 ·
So I wasn't happy with the options about gauges. Pillar pods are a great way to get done by the cops for obstruction of vision, and I don't like the fact that they're right there in your face.

So since I have an in Dash GPS it limits the space I have available, a dash mat on top of the dash limits options for gauges there (plus my wife is short so she might not be able to see over them), so I started hunting elsewhere for options. I wanted something I could see easily enough but look almost factory. After some searching I found what I was looking for, except it didn't fit. a 3 gauge holder that would sit in the dash. So I made my own.

Interestingly, in the photo you have good evidence why an auto temp gauge is rather handy to have. This only took 3min of the auto in drive going up a windy piece of road in warm weather. I locked it into 2nd and it dropped to 75 degrees in under a minute.
 

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#8 ·
So something that drove me completely nuts as soon as i got the car was the alarm chiming when you left the key in the ignition and opened the door. Anyway, the forum helped again, probably a 7min job cause I'd never removed the shroud before but I'm a much happier man after unplugging the loom for that annoying bell. Here's the link if you want to do it. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/door-chime-key-ignition-95809/
 
#9 ·
So before the CRD i had a 4.8 and had read the thread about the earth strap fixing every problem known to patrol drivers from radio reception through to dodgy remotes. Anyway, in the 4.8 it helped improve lock up on the auto so within a week of having the CRD I fitted a body - chassie earth strap. no idea what ailments I've fixed but hopefully it's prevented some issues in the future. for $20 you too can fix any disease or problem (or not). Once again, don't take my word for it, here's the link http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/earth-strap-hallelujah-praise-forum-1-a-16953/
 
#10 ·
So the 4.8 was noisy, in a petrol engine kind of way, it wasn't too bad actually. but the CRD injector noise with it's 3" exhaust now that was something else. Within a few weeks of having the truck I started systematically pulling each door card off and using self adhesive high density vinyl to stop all those panels in the car from being a drum head and amplifies the noise. Sound deadening the bonnet alone helped reduce the rattle from the injectors that is so annoying on a CRD. and the back doors where instrumental in stopping the exhaust noise from resonating through the car (my 3" does have an muffler).
 
#12 ·
your all over it!!
sound and engine/trans heat heat reduction is high on my list.

shiz i wish i remembered about the fuel tank mod before i mounted the tray up on the dually...
might be a rainy day mod.
 
#13 ·
Yeh, there's a bunch of fairly cheap mods than can really improve the patrol. My trans tunnel is much cooler these days, having an auto box doesn't help much with the heat. I didn't go the whole hog with installing foam as well except in the roof, the noise of the roof rack and light bar was unpleasant (i'm 194cm tall so my ears sit a bit closer to the roof than most. managed to remove the roof lining, sound deaden and reinstall in 3hrs. Having a proper trim puller and a bit of research before hand on what the tricky parts are does help.

Something I've learnt over the years, always over research, ask questions even if the answers take a while, then plan, have contingencies and then act when ready and not before. When my son was born 5 months ago he had really bad reflux and would spend most of the evening/night on my chest to stop him vomiting all over himself, which sort of had my confined to my lounge room recliner. That gave me a great opportunity to write a list and plan and learn etc etc etc.

I still haven't manage to do the mod to the sub tank, it annoys me every time I fill it up that I can only get 30L into it, i could get 72 in my LRA sub on the 4.8 so I feel cheated every time now. The only issue is that they changed the baffle plate in the recent patrols so it's not so easy to get to the breather... will probably have to drop the tank to do it properly.
 
#17 ·
So I had a little static mesh left over (pardon the angle of the etag, previous owners sticky work), anyway it works nicely, far more pleasant to drive when the sum comes through at that angle. Will do it properly next, remove the rear mirror, install level even and straight then put the mirror back on, easy job when I have the time.

Also, I returned my best ever tank of fuel! It happened to include a trip up the mountain at falls creek. Got 13.1L/100. Now usually I us BP and get 14/100 average, I had to fill up at caltex on the way up the Hume cause that's when the baby was awake, so tonight I up filled up 114L of Caltex to test out if there is a difference.
The rule in our house currently is, if the baby is asleep, don't stop the car.
 

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#19 ·
Few things of interest. Firstly is the research the 4.8 crew have done into fuel maps in relation to their MAF temp readings. in short, they've found insulating the maf housing has improved power and economy. So off to clark rubber I went and got some foil backed self adhesive insulation. hopefully i don't go up like a london apartment complex.
 

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#20 ·
I was lucky enough to get a 2.5" turbo inlet upgrade, which meant upgrading the hoses set. the following worked nicely for me.
1x 90deg 3"-2.5" This had to be trimmed down in hight slightly on the 2.5" end.
1x 3" alloy joiner (to join the 90deg elbow piece with the flex piece)
1x hose clamp 3"
1x 3" reinforced flex pipe from super cheap (cut this in 1/2 as it's too long) it will fit on the maf housing outlet but is very tight, enjoy the wrestling match.
I have plumbed the catch can outlet back into my air box so no lines etc are plumed into the intake pipe now.
You will be able to reuse a few of the clamps from your existing intake, if you don't wish to use them you'll need to add them to your shopping list.

Any improvement?
Yes, in various areas
The auto locks up much better (the auto locking up depends on engine load)
engine load has dropped
boost comes on faster and lower than before
EGT's are lower
Less engine braking
Less turbo flutter
 

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#21 ·
ps. it was a 4hr job to do the intake, don't underestimate it. get everything off and away before you attempt the turbo inlet, it's a ***** with no space. remove first the outer and lower bolt before attempting the one next to the engine. you have have to remove the bracket that the earth is attached to from the alternator on the engine in the CRD, you just can't get enough room otherwise. Also the bracket that the coolant pipe is connected to can be moved forward easily once the bolt its held in place with (under the alternator on the side) has been loosened off, hope that makes sense.
 
#22 ·
note to self. last tank I got 13.3 communting 40km round trip in city traffic. will be interesting to see if that improves.
Also, I've joined the club of those who snap their outlets...
 

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#23 ·
As said earlier, you've got this. Thanks for sharing! I've bookmarked this topic, I will be back in a GU at some point and topics like yours make it easy for punters like me to sort/solve/avoid problems - this is why we are part of a forum. Keep it coming!
 
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#24 ·
so interesting development. its only 1 tank's (120L) worth but since doing my 2.5" turbo inlet mod I've gotten 15.2L/100 instead of the regular 13.5, now 2 factors other than the inlet are most likely influencing this. I am not currently running a needle valve as I am 1/2 way to moving it into the cab, and I've been stuck in some pretty heavy city traffic. The traffic will be a constant in the next year so will be interesting to see if the needle valve reinstallation fixes this.
 
#27 ·
I don't think the 2.5" is playing that big of a part in worse fuel eco, it didn't lastingly impact on mine when I did the original one, I generally find it is the right foot experimenting and will settle.

Have you had a remap yet? if so I would like to see you give the vacuum solenoid a try (still keeping Dawes/Tillix or whatever you have to control maximum) as I've had great success with the re-installation of mine.
 
#29 ·
Harley mentioned something the other day about a special coming up, maybe it's this week. Give him a call.

I've got a voucher from Harley and David for a remap to the value of $1000 for the Show and Shine ;).
 
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