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  #21  
Old 28-03-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambill View Post
Hmmmm.
The TCV style pump uses the PWM valve to control timer piston movement, the problem with adjusting the main fuel screw, is getting the TPS adjustment correct so the right signal is sent to control the timing as it should be.
It is a very rare thing to have to adjust the main screw however, unless the pump is tired or has been rebuilt and setup weird during that process.
It is a very unfortunate thing, but so many people simply concentrate of fuel alone, or even worse a AFR gauge, they forget about all the other things involved in actually tuning.
Thankyou for the explanation.

My car is only 195 000kms so Im sure it cant be tired
New fuel filter 10 000kms ago too.

He did mention that either pump was tired or its the way the Mamba works.
He says the Mamba rises very quickly and drops off quickly.
I just nodded as I know he isnt a fan of them

Then again he wasnt a fan of the forums either when I mentioned it t him
that I read and learn alot of you guys and I made my choice with the turbo

Honestly personally I am more than happy with the results
For 1100 dollar turbo or so. Its so much more faster. Spins 35 like they are stock wheels!

Who can say not to that right?

Just shows how much difference it is coming from a HT18 to a Mamba 18g 6cm
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  #22  
Old 28-03-2019, 11:59 AM
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Nice to see you are happy mate, which is the main thing here.

Just a comment or two though, as you have written in a tech section so you are asking for opinions.

As Marty has pointed out TCV pumps are a bit odd at times when playing with main fuel screws it really does stuff up internal timing. I usually connect up a timing light to see what is going on when under dyno load. Then adjust static timing to adjust for a compromise for max torque point and top end. I dont know any other way of doing it. Even then its pretty ordinary. Usually if the pump is good The TCV works well in std format if the fuel screw hasn't been played with. Its usually safer and smarter to play with the pin on the 11mm TCV. Usually you can remove the shims and turn the pin around to get those sorts of power gains you have. Then adjust the TPS for the slightest amount to adjust for the timing loss in mid range for transition response. Keeping static at STD as that stuffs every thing as well.. The smarter tuners will give the relief plug a bump down to adjust internal pressure slightly if more fuel is needed in the upper rpm range and keep timing a slight bit more stable up there as well.

Mainline dyno's to me are damn hard to read the 10klm/sec for 10.5 sec run is ok if it was started at 1100 to 1200 rpm start point. I dont know how you can tune a pump with a 1760 rpm start. How does that tell you what no boost fuel is doing. But we dont know this for sure as on a mainline the tuner can capture and adjust a image where ever he wants. His kph derived rpm speed is totally off for 35 on 4.11 BTW so it makes the graph look late. His AFR reading are hmmm well odd to say the least but on a mainline that attribute is always odd in graph form. But it suggests to me it would be smoking its head off, As you have suggested its clean so that has got me at odds to what in the hell is that sheet about.

I know the sheet is a captured adjusted image just to show you what it going on but its usual to have start and finished tune lines to compare. You dont have this so difficult to suggest if its good or not or if the tuner actually did anything to improve the results. Remembering a dyno is a tool to measure tuning improvements not values as such to compare to other tunes or end result peaks.

As a final comment the 3.3 KN @ 2900 rpm doesn't work out to 444NM @ 2900 on 411/35 in 4th gear either, so thats confusing as well. The power HP curve is very odd, starts at 1760 for 62 hp and finishes at 4000 for 70hp. The math just doesn't work out or even close if you do the calcs torque to rpm. By that mainline graph and knowing how TD's should be that graph would tell me thats a horrible car to drive worse than STD with those numbers, i have never see that before. But in fairness its a dyno sheet window tune tool only done on a mainline by a tuner who i have to assume knows his tools..

The most important bit though is your happy and the power of your car makes you grin from ear to ear, in the end thats the most important part, Dyno sheets can never tell the whole story.
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  #23  
Old 28-03-2019, 12:11 PM
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Thanks Old Mav.

My HT18 was laggier and had smoke down below

I drove this car last night and canned it .

Honestly. Lightest of haze.The tuner did spend abit of time on the dyno with it.

As previously mentioned. He said he doesnt like Mamba.

My ht18 could barely hit 14psi before even with boost controller fully wound out.

Now its cleaner with no smoke and better response and all the way to 23 psi or so!.


Is the idle okay? Should I just leave everything alone?
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  #24  
Old 28-03-2019, 12:38 PM
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Also 145 hp is 108kw?

I made that with the Ht18 so Im sure this is not right

That Graph is off for sure.

Maybe a sales pitch to make me be disappointed and want to buy one of his turbos? lol who knows
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  #25  
Old 28-03-2019, 01:06 PM
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I've seen more than one stock 11mm pump that was maxed out at 110kw so I tell people fitting new turbos not to expect more than that. If they get 120kw then that's a bonus. You can have two engines deliver the same peak power but one has more power than the other everywhere else and is way more fun to drive. The other thing is that not all dynos are well calibrated and errors of 10% get talked about.

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His AFR reading are hmmm well odd to say the least but on a mainline that attribute is always odd in graph form. But it suggests to me it would be smoking its head off, As you have suggested its clean so that has got me at odds to what in the hell is that sheet about.
The AFR never dips below 19 so I'm not sure what you mean there Peter. I've never seen an engine smoke badly with an AFR that lean.
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  #26  
Old 28-03-2019, 01:16 PM
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Too be honest with you mate. The graph is very odd indeed but as said i struggle to work out what some tuners do to their mainlines. I have seen many graphs that look right from mainlines and emulate a dynamics and others but they have the correct math component or close to what should be graphed. That graph and values don't work, not even close not even if its a totally derived.

But looking at those graph shapes and only looking at the numbers as data points there are many tuners that can do WAY better and give you WAAAAAAAAY better drive-ability with a TCV pump and the STD HT18 net alone a 18G of any brand with a 6cm housing. Besides true value numbers you should be seeing in the 120rwkw peak and for the TCV at least holding 90rwkw's at 3800 rpm. Most tuners that know what to do with the crappy wastegate they supply and know what to do on a TCV pump can hold better than 90rwkw's at 3750 rpm on any 18g. A TD Hp graph doesn't look like that mate if tuned correctly.

All the same its just a opinion the proof is in the pudding and you are happy.. so not much point trying to do comparisons to other tunes.
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  #27  
Old 28-03-2019, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboard View Post
I've seen more than one stock 11mm pump that was maxed out at 110kw so I tell people fitting new turbos not to expect more than that. If they get 120kw then that's a bonus. You can have two engines deliver the same peak power but one has more power than the other everywhere else and is way more fun to drive. The other thing is that not all dynos are well calibrated and errors of 10% get talked about.

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Originally Posted by OldMav View Post
His AFR reading are hmmm well odd to say the least but on a mainline that attribute is always odd in graph form. But it suggests to me it would be smoking its head off, As you have suggested its clean so that has got me at odds to what in the hell is that sheet about.
The AFR never dips below 19 so I'm not sure what you mean there Peter. I've never seen an engine smoke badly with an AFR that lean.
Thanks ob.

So usually thats the power limit of 11mm pump? 110kw to 120kw?
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  #28  
Old 28-03-2019, 04:48 PM
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So usually thats the power limit of 11mm pump? 110kw to 120kw?
Mine is maxed at 122rwkw and I'd say that is pretty common although I've seen several that never got that high. A custom pin and some other work on the pump can improve that but for straight tuning changes I'd say that is the normal limit.
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Old 28-03-2019, 04:57 PM
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Also i have 35s. Would that show lower kw?
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Old 28-03-2019, 05:19 PM
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Also i have 35s. Would that show lower kw?
It's mainly the tread style rather than diameter. Aggressive muddies will drop up to 10kw compared to ATs.
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  #31  
Old 28-03-2019, 05:21 PM
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Also i have 35s. Would that show lower kw?
Isn't your gearing 4.3? Would that effect dyno results?
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Old 28-03-2019, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
Also i have 35s. Would that show lower kw?
Isn't your gearing 43? Would that effect dyno results?
You have a good memory. Yes 4.3 from 3 litre model
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  #33  
Old 28-03-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
Also i have 35s. Would that show lower kw?
It's mainly the tread style rather than diameter. Aggressive muddies will drop up to 10kw compared to ATs.
I have 35 inch kumho mt51 so maybe i am 120kw aswell after all lol
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Old 28-03-2019, 05:33 PM
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My Mamba 16g only picked up 13kw over my hiflowed HT18 before the pump was maxed but the improvement in driveability was what made it worth while.
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Old 28-03-2019, 05:37 PM
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My Mamba 16g only picked up 13kw over my hiflowed HT18 before the pump was maxed but the improvement in driveability was what made it worth while.
Exactly what im feeling now. Making any excuse to drive lol
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  #36  
Old 28-03-2019, 07:35 PM
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Do all old school diesels respond well like the td42ti?

I had a 1kzte 3 litre from the surf years ago. I should of dyno tuned it and installed a better turbo.

Im impressed for such a old school engine and very simple looking engine lol
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  #37  
Old 28-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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Do all old school diesels respond well like the td42ti?

I had a 1kzte 3 litre from the surf years ago. I should of dyno tuned it and installed a better turbo.

Im impressed for such a old school engine and very simple looking engine lol
any engine will benefit from the fitment of improved parts. doesnt matter what it is
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Old 28-03-2019, 08:34 PM
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any engine will benefit from the fitment of improved parts. doesnt matter what it is
with the td42 you dont need much.

I remember my R33 GTR skyline

Need injectors, pump, ecu. larger front mount.


seems like the td42ti fuel system has heaps of room for bolt ons

even with 12mm pump do you need to change to different injectors?

apologies if I probably dont understand diesels. Could be totally different to how petrol setups are
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Old 29-03-2019, 06:32 AM
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with the td42 you dont need much.

I remember my R33 GTR skyline

Need injectors, pump, ecu. larger front mount.


seems like the td42ti fuel system has heaps of room for bolt ons

even with 12mm pump do you need to change to different injectors?

apologies if I probably dont understand diesels. Could be totally different to how petrol setups are
some diesel places might stuff around with the crack pressures a bit but otherwise na pretty much all stock.
diesels are simpler as everything is controlled by the pump. so once you replace the pump you have replaced the entire efi fuel system basically. just throw a lift pump on it and you have the equivalent of a big petrol fuel system in one bundle. and mechanical adjustments. makes tuning easier but less fine if that makes sense.
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  #40  
Old 29-03-2019, 07:31 AM
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I have a Mainline dyno and love it. Having said that, its only as good as the operator. Rpm is a calculation of road speed at 2000rpm, its called derived revs. If this is wrong it changes the figures.
At a quick glance, the ramp rate and the starting point are a bit quicker and higher than desired, I would say this isn't getting full throttle properly. Check that your lever on the pump is touching the stopper when foot is hard on accelerator.
Ideally he should have overlayed a driven in graph and a tuned graph, show power. torque, boost pressure and a/f ratio.
If your happy with the result, then that is all that matters.

Andy
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