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  #1  
Old 10-05-2019, 09:41 PM
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Default Manual Hub replacement GU patrol

So I bought some ROK Manual hubs to see if it gets rid of a random clunk when Im locked and in 4wd

Are they easy to change?
I got manual ones on the car now so straight swap.

Is it simple as undoing 6 bolts then swap over?
Do i need to grease anything?
How tight should bolts be?

Thankyou in advance
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:23 PM
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Did you get this sorted? If not, according to my GQ manual, bolt tension is 54-64nm (or 40-47 ft/lb).


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Old 13-05-2019, 10:56 AM
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Current one
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Old 13-05-2019, 10:57 AM
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New one.
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Old 13-05-2019, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dybo View Post
Did you get this sorted? If not, according to my GQ manual, bolt tension is 54-64nm (or 40-47 ft/lb).


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Thanks for asking mate.

No Im waiting to get some loctite too.

So is it simple as doing those bolts and swapping over?

New ones has extra little bolts for a cap. Not sure what to do there?

Is it just a case of placing in position and just bolt back on?

Sorry. Newbie here
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Old 13-05-2019, 12:16 PM
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Are the ROK new? Did they come with anything else?

The factory ones have the hub, gear, egg ring and step ring all as part of the assembly.
I would say most of this would need changing unless they bolt onto the factory gear. (this slides over the spline on the end of the CV)

It's all really simple to remove anyway, there is a circlip on the end of the spline that holds it all in place.
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Old 13-05-2019, 12:27 PM
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Convert Auto Hubs to Manual Pictorial.

Even though your doing it differently this pictorial may be of some help.
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Old 13-05-2019, 12:46 PM
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Other side. Brand new rok manual ones.
So im going from manual to manual
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Old 13-05-2019, 12:47 PM
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Just comes with a gasket and new bolts
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Old 13-05-2019, 06:19 PM
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Looks like the circlip, egg ring and drive clutch will need to be removed, those hubs appear to slide straight onto the CV splines.
I like to put a bit of grease on the CV splines and in the free wheeling hub.
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Old 13-05-2019, 07:04 PM
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Thanks James. They are heavy as . Seem solid too. Ill take off the old ones of the weekend and see whats behind them
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Old 13-05-2019, 07:44 PM
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So are you assuming your splines in the hubs are worn. These look like cheap knock off of AVM hubs so I'm wondering why you would expect them to be better quality than the factory manual hubs.
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Old 13-05-2019, 07:58 PM
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Hey Fester. Why would you assume I assume that?

I dont expect them to be better quality or worse. I dont want to even compare.

I bought them because I had some spare cash and trying to chase a random clunk when in soft sand and in 4wd.

Either way they stay on or those ones already are on stay on. Ill have a spare set to give to a mate who has auto hubs.
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Old 13-05-2019, 07:59 PM
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Also the ones on there now are factory? previous mechanic owner told me he converted to manual from Auto so I have no idea what brand they are.
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Old 13-05-2019, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
Hey Fester. Why would you assume I assume that?

I dont expect them to be better quality or worse. I dont want to even compare.

I bought them because I had some spare cash and trying to chase a random clunk when in soft sand and in 4wd.

Either way they stay on or those ones already are on stay on. Ill have a spare set to give to a mate who has auto hubs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
Also the ones on there now are factory? previous mechanic owner told me he converted to manual from Auto so I have no idea what brand they are.
I just thought those new ones are a cheap no name copy (but I don't really know) and I was wondering why you would remove what I believe are perfectly good factory manual hubs to replace with cheap aftermarket ones. I assumed you thought the clunk was in your splines.
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Old 13-05-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by festerGU View Post
I just thought those new ones are a cheap no name copy (but I don't really know) and I was wondering why you would remove what I believe are perfectly good factory manual hubs to replace with cheap aftermarket ones. I assumed you thought the clunk was in your splines.
Thanks Fester. Sorry I have no idea. Im hopeless at this stuff.
Always appreciate your insight and help.
Are my ones factory manual ones though? They all look alike to me

The previous mechanic owner didnt skimp when he bough things but I wonder if he skimped out on the manual hub conversion.
He still owns a very reputable and large Diesel workshop so how knows lol.

Here is a link for the ROCK ones https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Manual-L...8AAOSwPcVVwFhc


lol my ones look like the rest of the generic ones for sale on ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...w=dvd+headrest
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Old 13-05-2019, 08:18 PM
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lol and thankyou. I just learnt something off you tonight.

I understand why a manual hub will go faulty. You mentioned splines wearing out.
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Old 13-05-2019, 08:20 PM
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Ah, that's a point if you didn't put them in and don't know what he used. Not sure how to tell the difference between aftermarket copy and factory.
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Old 14-05-2019, 12:41 AM
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drgtr, when you remove the factory manual or factory copy whichever they are. Once you have the outer hub part off there will be a C clip on the end of the CV spline, you remove this and any washer if there is one. Then the drive gear will slide off the spline. You may have to also remove the stepped ring where the drive gear was running in. There is also a thinner egg ring in the hub.

These are the parts, drive gear (Drive Clutch), stepped ring (Bushing) and egg ring (Spacer). (In brackets is what they are referred to in the document linked below).

$(KGrHqFHJEwFG41vB)u5BR0orj6CUg--60_57.jpg

You should also put the washer and C clip back on the inner most grove in the spline shaft, you will have to grab the end of the spline and pull outwards to get the clip on. At that point you are meant to use a feeler gauge to check the end float in the shaft between the C clip with washer if it had one and the end of the stub axle. You should have 0.4 mm or less I think it is from memory. The auto hubs that were removed would have had a copper washer, followed by a thin shim steel washer and a C clip thickness to get the correct end float. This holds the CV in the correct place against a thrust washer in the back of the stub axle or spindle and an inner grease seal.

If you open this document, it is the full swivel hub seal overhaul, but at the beginning it has most of the part and diagrams you will need for removal. Also shows the difference in washers etc from auto and manual hubs. You are basically putting the spline and washers Clips back to how it would have been with the auto hubs. So having been converted it may have some or all of the washers needed.

At the end of the guide is the bit about adjusting the washers and checking end float.

http://pedders.pl/wp-content/uploads...stallation.pdf

Should then be able to bolt the new hubs on. Might be worth using a thin bead of sealant if they don't have a gasket.
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Old 14-05-2019, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
Other side. Brand new rok manual ones.
So im going from manual to manual
I have to say sorry I don’t like the look of those ROK hubs. If they’re not utilizing the circlip on the end of the drive spline, there’s nothing controlling CV end float within the entire swivel hub.

The end float design on the front end was engineered for a reason no doubt, and I wouldn’t be surpassing it without an understanding of it being satisfied otherwise.
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