Changing my Pyro and had to go get the right fitting because Ebay let me down..
I took out my old pyro and the reducing bush out of the dump and put the blanking bung in that come with the dump pipe.
Screwed the blanking bung in 4-5 turns by hand, tightened it with no issues, shut the bonnet and off i went.
Just got home to remove it and it's fn stuck! :ranting: I can get maybe 1/10th of turn where it moves freely each way then just locks up.. Tried to force it a bit with the big bar but no luck. WTF?
99% i didn't cross thread it in... no way i could have turned it in by hand so far if i did. The reducing bush i had in there is alloy i reckon, thread looks ok on the but maybe some swarf or something is in the thread from it causing this binding issue?
Anyone got an ideas for me.. Livid right now! :angryfir:
The bung hasn't bottomed out into the thread.. Unless it is tapered maybe i did cross thread it.
Now.. How the hell am i going to get it out? Maybe get my mate rattle gun and give it ugga-duggas? and hope the damage isn't to bad. Dare say the bung will be fine but the thread in the exhaust will bare the damage. Then hope i can re-tap it.. not that i have have a M18 tap to suit.
For any part is stainless steel that has a bad habit of galling, but you mention alloy, is that an aluminium alloy? That can be worse. Soak it in a good product like Reducteur, this can help lubricate as you move it. I would use a rattle gun, I would simply try rocking it back and forward giving it an ocassional spray and see if that rocking leads to a slowl increasing movement.
What are the two materials? I hope the probe isn’t stainless, as stainless is great at galling with different metals in threads.
If it is galling there’s very little success at getting it out. It will feel completely locked. Always use thread sealer, or tape at least, with stainless pipe threads.
How tight did you do it up? It takes a fair bit of torque to gall a stainless thread & it has to be stainless to stainless. There's no way you could screw it in 4-5 turns by hand if it was cross threaded. Probably just heat related, give it a squirt of Inox when it's cooled down & it will probably come out pretty easily.:cheers:
I didn't do it up that tight as I was only going around the corner... I was just using a shifter ( yes tsk tsk) I did think the shifter slipped off at the end.. but maybe it was the thread jumping?
As it stands.. ignore the bolt in the back ground.. that one did fall out and I did a road side dodgy to seal that up. [emoji23]
Actually in my experience of using stainless fasteners on an almost daily basis they are very easy to gall up and do not need that much force at all. Especially in this case where the threads are very dry, as they usually are in an EGT bung. Even with a stainless bolt into a mild steel thread. It's highly likely that this is what has happened as the socket is an O2 sensor socket not a tapered thread so it should have bottomed out, unless the bottom of the thread is damaged from the original fitment.
Unfortunately I think you only real option here is to lube it up as best you can, repeatedly, and like Ross said just keep working it backwards and forwards and gradually undo more and more each cycle and cross your fingers. I don't think cold or hot will make much difference if it has really grabbed but I would try getting the exhaust hot and trying to cool only the bung and see if that helps.
Had a big night.. Didn't get up till late then got my new kayak so spent the arvo fitting it out. A mate dropped me off his DeWalt Ugga Dugga at some stupid hour this morning. So if worst comes to worst i'll just send it. :lol:
I may look at it tomorrow if i don't hit the water... otherwise will be a Monday arvo job.
If it has galled then don't just rattle away, it will bind more then snap. Still work it back and forward in the hope you bugger the bung more than the socket and you might still get away with it. Mind you it will also take some effort to snap an 18mm thread.
It could nearly be easier in the end to leave it there, pull the pipe off and retap the right size hole in the damaged bung, as most EGT probes are 1/8th.
Good work, looks like galling to me. If the probe collar is stainless I use one or two thread tape winds or if possible I get a brass adapter, then you’re stainless/brass/steel. Depend on the size available though.
Stainless and hot dry steel are a bad combination, Chinese stainless isn’t even any good with itself lol cheap brass battery clamps are a good example had to snap a 10mm off last week was only tightened up once.
To get that one out i hit it with some inox and went back and forwards for a couple of minutes then it started to undo! The new fitting it brass.. thread ain't perfect in the dump but not much a can do about it. Took at a bit to get the brass fitting going in. Took it out a few times to clean up the crap that got stuck in it's thread. But it's in.