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  #21  
Old 18-04-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Marko_SJ View Post
What boost does it run when you are driving up those hills?

You could set the Dawes to 15-16PSI and set an aggressive spool rate, this will keep you clear of 17PSI for whatever seconds it is limp mode but go a long way for blowing the heat out of it up hills.

You will gain driveability from a fast spool up and a few PSI more, possibly notice an increase to fuel consumption but overall power will stay much the same.

My car was far less smokey after Dawes too.
Only done the one trip but it appears to boost between 10-15 PSI going up hill. Just the damn EGT starts to climb super fast.

What reading i've done so far seems to point me to the fact i'm going to have to fit something to try and control the EGT better. I guess the boost valve will be the easiest and cheapest option for the next 12 months until i get the $$ for a bigger inter cooler and exhaust? As long as it brings the EGT back a bit.
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  #22  
Old 24-04-2019, 07:50 PM
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So my Tillix parcel arrived today. Hoping to install it tomorrow.
One question i have hopefully someone can explain.
Why is there 2 x adjustable valves? 1has an in and out connection while the other only has one inlet? I know one goes in the cab to easily adjust, but if i have 1 in the cab is the other not used? I'm a little confused.
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  #23  
Old 24-04-2019, 10:05 PM
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Cheers
I was hoping to not have to go down the Dawes or equivalent route with this late model (2014) CRD. It doesnít over boost at the moment.
Iím new to these engines, but I imagine more boost, but not past 18psi would give more power and lower EGT?
It currently boosts about 15-16pai max.
Running manual boost control whether it be Tillix or Dawes has little to do with overboost these days. We were worried about that 10+ years ago in the early days of modifying the ZD30. We now now that they can run over 30psi without a issue of failure. (Not using stock turbo)
The main reason we run them is to stabilise boost to better control EGTs as well as increase power and drivability.

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  #24  
Old 24-04-2019, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadGu View Post
So my Tillix parcel arrived today. Hoping to install it tomorrow.
One question i have hopefully someone can explain.
Why is there 2 x adjustable valves? 1has an in and out connection while the other only has one inlet? I know one goes in the cab to easily adjust, but if i have 1 in the cab is the other not used? I'm a little confused.
Thanks
The the one that looks like a black barrel is the Tillix valve itself. It controls maximum boost. The square body one with a adjusting knob ontop is the needle valve. It is used to control spool rate. Is how fast it gets up to full boost. The more you open it the slower it will generate boost.

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  #25  
Old 24-04-2019, 10:14 PM
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Let me know if you get stuck installing or tuning it. Can easily talk you through it.
Definitely read and understand Lindsay's instructions on the supplied USB stick.

Here's a simple hose layout to give you a better idea how everything connects together.

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  #26  
Old 25-04-2019, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skegbudley View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadGu View Post
So my Tillix parcel arrived today. Hoping to install it tomorrow.
One question i have hopefully someone can explain.
Why is there 2 x adjustable valves? 1has an in and out connection while the other only has one inlet? I know one goes in the cab to easily adjust, but if i have 1 in the cab is the other not used? I'm a little confused.
Thanks
The the one that looks like a black barrel is the Tillix valve itself. It controls maximum boost. The square body one with a adjusting knob ontop is the needle valve. It is used to control spool rate. Is how fast it gets up to full boost. The more you open it the slower it will generate boost.

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Thanks for that.
The kit seem to have 2 types of needle valves?? Just not sure if I use both or only 1? I can’t find anywhere in the provided instructions (which are great) where it even talks about using the needle valve with only 1 inlet.
I’ve attached a photo of the 2 x needle valves.
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File Type: jpg B30518D5-9FF3-4B8C-8D0C-D0B97628DE5F_1556137576608.jpg (45.4 KB, 4 views)
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  #27  
Old 25-04-2019, 07:37 AM
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OMG! All good. I thought it was a damn 2nd valve.
It’s just the 90 elbow screwed onto the bung to weld on the intercooler pipe if needed.
Rookie mistake. That’s what I get for not investigating thoroughly.
Sorry for the bum steer!!
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File Type: jpg image_1556141619079.jpg (39.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg image_1556141781875.jpg (39.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg image_1556141830488.jpg (39.2 KB, 3 views)
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  #28  
Old 25-04-2019, 09:16 AM
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OMG! All good. I thought it was a damn 2nd valve.
Itís just the 90 elbow screwed onto the bung to weld on the intercooler pipe if needed.
Rookie mistake. Thatís what I get for not investigating thoroughly.
Sorry for the bum steer!!
Lol. Lindsay's kit is comprehensive. Many people dont realise he includes a threaded boss for welding a boost reference point onto the intercooler pipe.

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  #29  
Old 25-04-2019, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skegbudley View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadGu View Post
OMG! All good. I thought it was a damn 2nd valve.
It’s just the 90 elbow screwed onto the bung to weld on the intercooler pipe if needed.
Rookie mistake. That’s what I get for not investigating thoroughly.
Sorry for the bum steer!!
Lol. Lindsay's kit is comprehensive. Many people dont realise he includes a threaded boss for welding a boost reference point onto the intercooler pipe.

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Yep sure is. Not like Redarc who forgot to add a boss for the EGT guage.
Anyway all installed. Just been down the street and already tell a massive improvement.
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  #30  
Old 25-04-2019, 12:55 PM
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Sorry does anyone know or have experience fitting the tillix/Dawes to a Nissan Navara?
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  #31  
Old 25-04-2019, 01:06 PM
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Sorry does anyone know or have experience fitting the tillix/Dawes to a Nissan Navara?
You can't unless you fit the Patrol's exhaust manifold and turbo on. The Nav has a wastegated turbo with a pressure actuator where as the Tillix and Dawes valves are designed for vacuum operated VNT turbos.
You can simply fit a Turbosmart boost tee in the line going to the wastegate actuator.

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  #32  
Old 25-04-2019, 01:11 PM
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Yep sure is. Not like Redarc who forgot to add a boss for the EGT guage.
Anyway all installed. Just been down the street and already tell a massive improvement.
Some people say you dont need to fit a Tillix valve to a CRD. You can probably put money on the fact that 99% of those people haven't driven a CRD with one fitted.


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  #33  
Old 25-04-2019, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skegbudley View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadGu View Post
Yep sure is. Not like Redarc who forgot to add a boss for the EGT guage.
Anyway all installed. Just been down the street and already tell a massive improvement.
Some people say you dont need to fit a Tillix valve to a CRD. You can probably put money on the fact that 99% of those people haven't driven a CRD with one fitted.


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I’m so impressed with the difference it has made to my CRD.
It is like driving a new Ute.
Honestly I was beginning to think I had made a wrong choice buying a 3.0lt Patrol, but after fitting the boost valve it has changed my mind. It was great to drive today.
Responsive, great up hills now, EGT are only getting up to 500 max. Before I was struggling to keep them below 650 on hills.
I imagine fuel figure will improve too.
Just got to spend time fine tuning the max boost as it was maybe a little high - boosting as high as 22-24 psi when putting the boot in.
What is the max I should keep it under?

The tillix has made it so much better, constant boost where before it was so low and all over the shop - I just didn’t realise it.
Very impressed so far.
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  #34  
Old 25-04-2019, 10:48 PM
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Keep boost under 20psi. 17psi is a good number for a crd.

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  #35  
Old 26-04-2019, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skegbudley View Post
Keep boost under 20psi. 17psi is a good number for a crd.

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Thanks
I’ll give it a go.
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