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Old 28-04-2015, 10:52 AM
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Post Update on seatbelts - fixing retraction problems

Hi everyone,

This is my first full post after lurking for a while. I have seen a few threads about retracting issues. I noticed that there were a few fixes. I have incorporated a number of those fixes and decided it was time to tell all about the fixes that worked for me.

My car is a 2004 GU3 Patrol ST-L, The drivers seat was the worst, it would not retract and if you leaned forward it would sit there and have heaps of slack. My driver's belt was quite stiff and in the worst shape.

Removing trim
Buy some nylon trim tools for a about $20.
- Firstly, remove the tread plates, use the widest tool to lever up the plate and once you have one end lifted up, give a firm upward tug. Do this to both the front and back door plates for the target seatbelt.
- Remove door seal, grasp the end that was covered by the tread and slowly pull it out towards the middle of the door until it is past the trim line under the seat belt. pulling in this manner stops kinks and is gentler on the seal.
- Move the seat fully forward unbolt the seatbelt bolt near the floor, next move the trim that covers the seatbelt mechanism and discover where the clips are roughly 2 at the top and about 3 in the middle and 2 at the base.
- Grasp the trim as the top and give a slight tug to release the first 2. using a trim tool you release the the middle clips. for the bottom, one clip is the normal round type but the other is square and requires a flat head screw driver to lever it out.

Fixing the seatbelts and mechanism
- Remove the rest of the seatbelt mechanism and I usually put the bolts back in place to remember where they go. Only real gotcha is if you have adjustable sealtbelt height, you will need to remove the trim piece, To do this squeeze the adjuster with one hand so both buttons are depressed and pull the trim straight out.
Cleaning the seatbelt.
- Holding the mechanism upright, pull out all the belt and use as many pegs needed to keep the belt out. Move all the attached clips, buckles etc up near the mechanism and using wool wash and quite warm water soak the belt for a 5 -10 minutes. work the belt in the water to dissolve the impregnated dirt and oils. you may need to do this 3-4 times. On the final wash use clean water to rinse. Hang on the line to allow to drip dry for 24 hrs.

For some the next part may be controversial, and you will need a second pair of hands.

Add extra belt tension
- Take the belt off the line and while the belt is out, have one pair of hands hold the reel whilst someone picks out the stopper for the seatbelt. remove the steel stopper in the loop and remove the seatbelt.. ENSURE YOU DO NOT LET IT GO AS IT IS NOW FREE. wind the reel a further 2 full turns to add extra tension to the reel.
- To pull the belt back through, I used a piece of wire to loop through the belt to help pull it back through the slot.
-Once the belt is in the slot, put the steel pin back and seat the stopper home.
- If you are unsure about how to pull the seatbelt stopper out after reading this, do a google search for "increase seat belt tension" and look at a few videos.
-Essentially we are just winding the spring tighter.

Cleaning the surfaces the seatbelt runs on
- For the head of the belt at the top of the B pillar; using thin wire, pass it through the part the seatbelt runs through and use the wire to scrape the surface clean. It may be full of accumulated gunk.
- Do the same for the buckle that actually clicks you into the seat.
- Lastly, moisten a cloth with 'spray n wipe' and clean all surfaces of grime.

Replacement is the reverse of the above.

Benefits noticed post fix
- Seatbelt is now flexible and clean

Yes, the clean may have fixed the retraction issue but the tension on the belt for retracting and keeping tight to the body is now just right.
No, there is no ABS tensioning charges in the seatbelts so this does not affect the ABS pre-tensioning charges.

Time taken about 2 hrs for the work and 24 hrs for drying.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by Squalo; 01-05-2015 at 12:48 PM.
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  #2  
Old 29-04-2015, 09:54 PM
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Sounds like you have worked in the aircraft industry ..... good info ...
Thanks..
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Old 30-04-2015, 01:01 PM
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Yes, good post, I'll put this into the archives General Patrol Discussion Archives under general information.

I remember this being a hot topic here some years ago and I went to a lot of trouble cleaning them and pegging them out (didn't remove like you did) on a hot summers day, worked bloody great for some time, now it's back where it was pre wash.

Just to add, often there will be a build up of grime on the piece the belt loops back down into the pillar through, this can slow the return as well, I cleaned that and gave it a spray with a drying Teflon Coating, that worked for some time too.

Well done for a "first full post", a tip, photo's make it very easy to explain.
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Old 30-04-2015, 09:47 PM
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for the record I am not in the Aircraft Industry, I am a an IT engineer who used to race Pommy cars. I write alot of HOWTOs for others to follow in my line of work.. As I sort out all the little things, watch for more Howtos to come
Cant find the edit button for the original post. I did actually clean the head and seatbelt runners with wire but didn't add that as I thought the post may be too long ..

I need some help working on diesel motors, never worked them before. would love a first hand lesson on oil filter, fuel filter and bleeding techniques...I live in Ormeau QLD, if anyone is doing that please message me so I can get a lesson... Reading a haynes is NOT the same as watching/doing the work
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3" exhaust, Tillix/needle, EGR blanked, gauges and catchcan.... phew !!!
I'm only a beach driver with a caravan
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Old 30-04-2015, 10:21 PM
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From that I'll assume you are familiar with the info we stored in the DI archives! There is a lot of basic and advanced info in there.
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Old 30-04-2015, 10:37 PM
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working my way through it
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2004 3.0L DI ST with full NADS:
3" exhaust, Tillix/needle, EGR blanked, gauges and catchcan.... phew !!!
I'm only a beach driver with a caravan
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Old 30-04-2015, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marky_boi View Post
for the record I am not in the Aircraft Industry, I am a an IT engineer who used to race Pommy cars. I write alot of HOWTOs for others to follow in my line of work.. As I sort out all the little things, watch for more Howtos to come
Cant find the edit button for the original post. I did actually clean the head and seatbelt runners with wire but didn't add that as I thought the post may be too long ..

I need some help working on diesel motors, never worked them before. would love a first hand lesson on oil filter, fuel filter and bleeding techniques...I live in Ormeau QLD, if anyone is doing that please message me so I can get a lesson... Reading a haynes is NOT the same as watching/doing the work
First off, you can't edit your posts after 24 hours - sorry, but that's how it works here. I like it about as much as you do. PM me if you want me to edit your posts.

We have a heap of members within range of you, and a lot of them have proven their worth with valuable posts here, and/or terrific involvement with day/weekend trips we've organised. Put a post up asking for what you want and I reckon you'll get it.
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Old 29-08-2016, 01:40 PM
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Thanks MARKY_boi, the slack front belts have been driving me crazy for some time.
It was a quick job with the tensioning apart from the extra time for the Prayers that I wouldn't let go till it was back.
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Old 29-08-2016, 07:50 PM
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Good that you revved this post up again. I had just today been looking at how crusty my seat belt has become. I thought I had seen some good cleaning instructions somewhere.
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Old 29-08-2016, 07:55 PM
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I made mine a lot better by running wet n dry paper through the slot and enlarging it a bit. Very tedious process, and the retraction is still rubbish.

This has reminded me I should increase the spring tension; the whole belt gives me the schmidts every time I use it.
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Old 20-02-2017, 01:47 PM
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another option ( but costs money, $115 ea) took whole unit out and gave it to seltbelt king (Seatbelt King |Seat Belt Extensions, Replacement, Extenders Seatbelt King ) to rebelt it and tension it up. works like a non nissan now
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Old 28-01-2019, 11:50 AM
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Just giving this a bump .... some users may not have seen this ... Geeutoo weren't you going to pin this one ?
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I'm only a beach driver with a caravan
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Old 28-01-2019, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marky_boi View Post
Just giving this a bump .... some users may not have seen this ... Geeutoo weren't you going to pin this one ?
Stickies are not ideal, there are far too many good threads, in one section we would be halfway down a page before getting to a post, that is why I started the archives in several sections, your thread is right here 4 from the bottom in the General Patrol Discussion archives. I regularly look for articles to add.
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marky_boi View Post
for the record I am not in the Aircraft Industry, I am a an IT engineer who used to race Pommy cars. I write alot of HOWTOs for others to follow in my line of work.. As I sort out all the little things, watch for more Howtos to come
Cant find the edit button for the original post. I did actually clean the head and seatbelt runners with wire but didn't add that as I thought the post may be too long ..

I need some help working on diesel motors, never worked them before. would love a first hand lesson on oil filter, fuel filter and bleeding techniques...I live in Ormeau QLD, if anyone is doing that please message me so I can get a lesson... Reading a haynes is NOT the same as watching/doing the work

I just knew there was an education in there somewhere. No spelling errors, good punctuation and sentence structure - well done!
Oddly though, I find nearly all computer instructions totally illogical, starting with the on/off button.
Top job though - I'm gunna have a crack at tightening the return spring.
P.S Nissan do a kit to rectify this. Needless to say, it doesn't work.
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