just done windows 8.1 update. I have used win98 xp and win7 and win8 have never had a problem learning new programs and how to use. yes win8 is different but is like any technology you have to use it and learn its benefits . and I am a young 52 so is not only the youngsters that can adapt. all depends what u use comp for to what you will learn programs attributes are. regards nick
Hi cracked the head on it. Didn't grenade. Pretty sure it's no3 glow plug area as had coolant on it when I pulled it apart. Head and block are still together. It's done around 215000kms. I was thinking of rebuilding it later but plans have changed and it's just dead weight right now. It had no mods at all since I had no idea of its issue when I purchased the it. Never had a problem till that happened.
I think I may have found the issue or something contributing to it. After driving 150km moving the needle valve 1/8 of a turn each time like clock work it would go limp every couple of kms. At the end of that drive I noticed the Hold-Power toggle switch in the centre console next to the Tbar was flashing randomly.I switched it over to Hold and found limp only occured every 30-40kms.Still not totally gone but a lot better. Not sure how to disconnect that switch correctly or remove it altogether but it has give me a glimmer of hope.
I have now put in and pulled out the dawes/neddle valve 1/2 dozen times and yes have confirmed it against your schematic and also the photo's in your NADs set sticky.I will check MAF voltages when I get home tonight and will let you know voltage and range at idle and with some revs. As for the spool rate that was just the last setting that I left it at after playing around with it on the weekend after I read in one of the threads you posted in that was about the low end of the normal setting scale. As for the manifold leak it was the usual high pitch squeal for a good 2-3 weeks but had minimal milage as i don't drive her Mon-Fri and have not been able to do an outing for months.
3" was fitted over 2 years ago along with the snorkle and that was the only engine mods I have done to the vehicle up until 6 weeks ago. The issue started when I had my regular mechainc do quite a bit of work to it 6 weeks ago. It blew an exhaust manifold gasket so I had my mechanic fix and fit the following and thats when the limp mode started Provent catch can, EGR blocking plate, exhaust manifold gasket, EGT & boost gauge Colored Digital Boost Gauges - McNally Electronics Dawes & Needle valves. He also has fitted many NADs set-ups without issue but this one has him baffled.
Hi Ross.. My vehicle is an automatic 2000 3.0TD but the paperwork I have tells me the previous owner swapped out the original motor for a 2006 direct injection. It has been a perfect performer and never skipped a beat in the 2 /12 years I have owned it with the exception of fitting up this NADS set-up and now the limp issue. Being an Auto with one foot on the brake and in drive at 1500 revs boost sits around the 2-3 psi and at 2000RPM was sitting at 9 psi. I won't be able to get under the bonnet until after work today 8hrs away. I true appreciate your time. Thanks
Hi Ross.. Well we actually aren't getting anywhere. I reconnected the Dawes/Needle valve and spent the weekend tweaking them. I now have the Dawes set at max boost 13psi and have been throught the entire range of the needle valve. I have swapped out 3 different MAF sensors..GGRRRR.. Still the limp is there. I find the Limp kicks in around 2000-2500 revs and it doesn't matter if it is light heavy load or at 60km's or 160km's an hour. The only other time it will trigger the limp mode is under heavy acceleration on an incline where it holds +3200 revs and max boost. I just don't understand that even when we removed the dawes/needle valve and returned it almost to normal set-up it was still there and even worse. The only thing we didn't do was remove the EGR blanking plate. I have had 2 mechainc's look at it as well as myself crawling all over it but just can't find out why.
Hi Ross, thouight I'd give you an update. I repiped the turbo back to the standard setup bypassing the Dawes & needle valve and you wouldn't belive it the limp has nothing to do with the set up. I now have to find why this GU of mine is going to limp mode. the ECU light on the dash isn't triggering so it's now a long road to find out why. I just can't catch a trick. I'm thinking just to take it to Nissan and let them deal with it. Once this limp mode thing is fixed I'll get back to setting up the dawes/needle valve.
Hi Ross, Thanks for the background and info. I'll do a bit of reading of your threads and not sure if the set up is As per your schematic. I have installed as per the instructions of Chez and the mud maps he provides with the Dawes/needle valve. I'll dig around to find your schematic and also have a good browse through your threads. Will get back to you and let you know how it all goes. Thanks again.
Now you have my undivided attention. Yes I have blocked EGR, catch can, 3" exhaust all the way from the dump pipe, standard IC, Mcnally's dual EGT & boost gauge but no other performance enhancers. You mentioned "the way we do electronically". Do tell How do you do it electronically?
i was advised e Dawes/ needle set up was easy as to install and is a great enhancement for fuel economy and performance but all I have is drama with limp mode. I am now at the stage of pulling them both off and putting them in the camp fire but if there is a way I can get this to work I will owe you a beer or 2 if we ever cross paths. My wife and I are doing the Simpson in Oct so pretty keen to get this fixed ASAP. Thanks again.
Hi there. In one of your posts regarding Dawes/needle valve you mentioned that the spool rate influences the MAF voltage. I assume from what you mentioned is that when the spool rate is slowed down it stops the MAF voltage spike and removed the limp issue. Is that correct? Thank you for your time.
Bean off the radar for some time, last time I had a yarn with you it was when my fuel pump died after using liquid molly. The outcome was that the guys that rebuilt it said that it failed due to a contaminant. Before the molly was introduced she was given a full service & running A1+. Liquid molly spent a lot of time and effort to tell me every reason they could come up with why it was unlikely to be there product. Any way...I need some help from someone who knows what’s what. Just installed a daws, needle valve, blocked the EGR & installed boost gage + new turbo long story. My issue is I’m getting over boost and the old safety mode kicks in & when I reduce the needle she starts pushing out black smoke. Any ideas or perhaps you can point me to an old thread.
I did read every word on every page... Can you guarantee that NADS will stop the big bang? I know that there are no guarantees in life but still there will always be in the back of my mind... BOOM.. So if I'm to get a 2000 to 2003 Patrol and set up the NADS what life would I get out of the engine? Assuming I get the one my wife is looking at that has a new motor with 50000ks on it.
I so want a Patrol because they have a near bullet proof drive line and they look great, but! Will I have to put 5k aside for a new motor? I cant afford a Cruiser as the same year one would be 10k + more for a 03. Just trying to get my head around things.