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Discussion Starter #1
Morning fellow Patrol lovers:eek:. My first weekend for a while to ‘attack’ my heat shield:punkrock:. Got 4 bolts out, 2 to go. The ‘not coming to the party’ bolt facing the firewall is proving a real pain. Don’t want to round it or cut it off. More body torque required? Cracking bar on end of racket handle. She’s a tight little bugger:cool:. Cheers
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Use a good quality spanner and give it a hit with a hammer. Sharp jolt should do it.
That bolt isn't used when you get a 3" exhaust btw.

I like shiny stuff
 

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That bolt isn't used when you get a 3" exhaust btw.
Very good comment, maybe told before though I had not read. Now know why it was missing.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Thanks guys. Finally got the last bolt off, took 10 mins to get heat shield off. Had to take catch can hoses off and it slipped passed. One pinkie finger cut:mad:
Join the heat shield removal lacerations club :).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any one know of a ‘cheerful’ exhaust fitter / welder who would weld on a boss on to my dump pipe so I can fit my EGT probe? Caboolture/Morayfield area would be great but work near Beenleigh so even around there would be great....cheers
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Any one know of a ‘cheerful’ exhaust fitter / welder who would weld on a boss on to my dump pipe so I can fit my EGT probe? Caboolture/Morayfield area would be great but work near Beenleigh so even around there would be great....cheers
Lindsay at Caboolture Exhaust and mechanical will look after you. He is a long term member here as well as being the creator of the Tillix valve.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Cheers, I have met Linsday....a great guy, have one of his Tillix systems, and he even dropped off some silicone hose to my home...great service....will get hold of him. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dump Pipe

What’s the best way to seperate the dump pipe from the rest of the exhaust? The turbo end is all free, just this joint is ‘glued’ together......screw driver between the joint or another way....sprayed it with penetrating lubricant.....
 

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So you have unsecured the dump pipe brkt from eng, then apart from heat(oxy) to help, could try a brass dolly or hammer and knock gently around circumference of flange joint, or as you suggest use a broad flat screw driver or even a cold chisel in between faces. Go easy and evenly around and be careful not to mark up or distort flange faces.

Good idea to put the three nuts loosely back on the dump to turbo flange while attempting to separate the flanges (for support).

Guess this is to weld the EGT bung in.
 

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Belt it with a hammer. Its just rusted together.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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What’s the best way to seperate the dump pipe from the rest of the exhaust? The turbo end is all free, just this joint is ‘glued’ together......screw driver between the joint or another way....sprayed it with penetrating lubricant.....
Do you own a cold chisel, if so I would use that, rather than a screwdriver, to amplify and concentrate the 'whack'.
 

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2004 ZD30di ST-L
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527314


5 or 6 bolts? Trolled many threads but nothing nailed. This is probably the best angled heat shield cover pic (from post above) I've seen so far showing 5 locations. Be great if it can be confirmed before I attempt applying for Laceration Club membership. I have removed these five bolts relatively easily after soaking 24hours but cover still tight.

P.S. Having a couple of beers too. Apparently that has helped others...
 

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View attachment 527314

5 or 6 bolts? Trolled many threads but nothing nailed. This is probably the best angled heat shield cover pic (from post above) I've seen so far showing 5 locations. Be great if it can be confirmed before I attempt applying for Laceration Club membership. I have removed these five bolts relatively easily after soaking 24hours but cover still tight.

P.S. Having a couple of beers too. Apparently that has helped others...
From memory, 5 with 3" exhaust fitted (6 without_ post #2 refers) . Did U get the 2 bolts that are approx 30mm appart under heater hose joiner (rubber piece).
 

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2004 ZD30di ST-L
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From memory, 5 with 3" exhaust fitted (6 without_ post #2 refers) . Did U get the 2 bolts that are approx 30mm appart under heater hose joiner (rubber piece).
Yep, plus the other one on top, the one on the side into turbo and the one this thread refers - head facing firewall. I can get the shield to wiggle a bit (as in rotate slight couple °) around the actuator but seams the top corner with the 2 close bolt holes fouls on something underneath. Now thinking about it, it could be the nut underneath. Take 2 tonight I guess...
 

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Yep, plus the other one on top, the one on the side into turbo and the one this thread refers - head facing firewall. I can get the shield to wiggle a bit (as in rotate slight couple °) around the actuator but seams the top corner with the 2 close bolt holes fouls on something underneath. Now thinking about it, it could be the nut underneath. Take 2 tonight I guess...
Pretty sure CRD would be the same, there is a total of 4 bolts down thru from top of cover. Did you see one close to rocker cover (top right corner of picture_hole not shown in pic). Hard to see have a look. As u have the bolt head facing firewall there would be 6 bolts in total.

I found it easier to remove actuator to provide more room to swing cover over/off. First, tie some fishing line to the e-clip that holds/retains the actuator rod to the lever pin, secure other end of the fishing line to a hose or something so not to loose clip when it flicks off pin.
527324
 

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Pretty sure CRD would be the same, there is a total of 4 bolts down thru from top of cover. Did you see one close to rocker cover (top right corner of picture_hole not shown in pic). Hard to see have a look. As u have the bolt head facing firewall there would be 6 bolts in total.

I found it easier to remove actuator to provide more room to swing cover over/off. First, tie some fishing line to the e-clip that holds/retains the actuator rod to the lever pin, secure other end of the fishing line to a hose or something so not to loose clip when it flicks off pin.
View attachment 527324
Thanks again @Bidja. I did look at that part of the cover on top behind the actuator. Think I will remove the IC inlet hose for a better view. I have read the fish line trick (or magnet stick) for that actuator clip but bit nervous if something gets disturbed. I take its just the two bolts marked below holding the actuator on?

527328
 

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Thanks again @Bidja. I did look at that part of the cover on top behind the actuator. Think I will remove the IC inlet hose for a better view. I have read the fish line trick (or magnet stick) for that actuator clip but bit nervous if something gets disturbed. I take its just the two bolts marked below holding the actuator on?
The 2 x nuts under "actuator can" are the ones U undo. Put a teaspoon or similar under the nuts so not to drop them as u undo them. Helps a lot and easy as. One of the small ratchet ring type spanners or a small open ender (is what I used last time I think_what ever works on the day). Remove e-clip first then nuts and wriggle actuator can around so the actuator rod comes off lever pin.

Remove your intercooler and stuff if gives you more room to get amongst it..

Edit: Your actuator rod and locknut have the yellow paint witness mark, just check that locknut is tight before removal (looks OK from your pic).

20210107_VNT Actuator.jpg
 

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6 Bolts confirmed! @Bidja you were spot on :). Let it soak and will remove the IC outlet hose tonight. I did remove the actuator. Lesson there is not to use 20+ years old 4 or 6lb fishing line. It failed on clip release. Fortunately Murphy didn't win this time and it was found on the garage floor. Will ask Nizzbits Garry if he can source a spare or two. Only disappointment with actuator out is that its shield is tacked to the actuator bracket. One has let go.
527351
 
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