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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Discussion Starter #461
Do not forget that the idea is to get the vanes to open sooner, but not too soon, nor too quickly.
You need to understand what you do when modifying each single setting of the vanes, to be able to get what you wish to have.
And thinking 'negative" pressure (vacuum) is not 'natural' to most of us ; ie less vacuum or more vacuum as opposed to more boost or less boost.
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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You need to understand what you do when modifying each single setting
That still evades me. My mind is a swamp trying to understand all this info.
Which valve should I adjust to increase MAF at high load, such as pushing up a long hill?

I assume I tighten the boost needle incrementally, and then also reset the spool up needle so the actuator just touches the stopper again. Leaving the Tillix alone, unless is see the max boost too high/low

is that right?
 

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That still evades me. My mind is a swamp trying to understand all this info.
Which valve should I adjust to increase MAF at high load, such as pushing up a long hill?

I assume I tighten the boost needle incrementally, and then also reset the spool up needle so the actuator just touches the stopper again. Leaving the Tillix alone, unless is see the max boost too high/low

is that right?
You are heading in the right direction, change valve settings to learn and observe changes (write/record data as you go).

For this setup, no needle 1 used so U only have needle 2 + spool needle to adjust, and of course Tillix as boost controller.

This is an extract (below) from post 436 for your info_may help. Do very small incremental changes of needle 2.

Last week went up the mountains (higher EGTs 500-580 hauling) as compared to local hwy/dirt roads (450). Observed that with isolating boost needle 2 on the fly (electric sol) both MAP and MAF would rise (cruise and hauling) so had more air available to me. Closed (boost needle 2) 1/10 turn (from 0.5 to 0.4 turns off seat) cruise boost went up went up slightly but bonus was that EGT hauling dropped 100° and overall performance improved significantly.

Closed your needle 2 _ little incrementally check it out and retain lever at stop.

Edit: my boost needle 2 is Dawes
To give you an idea, today, I changed my needle 2 (Dawes) from 0.4 off the seat to 0.43 (Dawes needle valve has 3 click adjustment points between 0.4-0.5. To 2 decimal places is enough;)
 

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You are heading in the right direction, change valve settings to learn and observe changes (write/record data as you go).

For this setup, no needle 1 used so U only have needle 2 + spool needle to adjust, and of course Tillix as boost controller.

This is an extract (below) from post 436 for your info_may help. Do very small incremental changes of needle 2.



To give you an idea, today, I changed my needle 2 (Dawes) from 0.4 off the seat to 0.43 (Dawes needle valve has 3 click adjustment points between 0.4-0.5. To 2 decimal places is enough;)
fantastic. Things are starting to make a little more sense now.

One thing that’s bloody hard to do is tell exactly when the actuator sits against the stopper. It’s really hard to see anything with the dual battery in the way. I assume I just adjust until I see the actuator move up, then come back incrementally until it moves down, then adjust back in TINY increments until I see it move up again, and that’s where I lock it. Sound about right?
 

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What sort of needle valve do you have @Bidja

Seems to me it might open and close a bit quicker than the tillix ones if .03 of a turn makes any difference 🤔
 
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fantastic. Things are starting to make a little more sense now.

One thing that’s bloody hard to do is tell exactly when the actuator sits against the stopper. It’s really hard to see anything with the dual battery in the way. I assume I just adjust until I see the actuator move up, then come back incrementally until it moves down, then adjust back in TINY increments until I see it move up again, and that’s where I lock it. Sound about right?
Yes doing it right mate.
Use a head type led light, sometimes helps to pick up slight movement.
 

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What sort of needle valve do you have @Bidja
Needle 2 is Dawes
Needle spool is Tognella(Italy)
Going to get Tillx needle for Needle1 and do back to back comparison boost controllers Tillix against Dawes 3BarRacing.
 

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Seems to me it might open and close a bit quicker than the tillix ones if .03 of a turn makes any difference 🤔
Have not compared Dawes needle against the Tillix at this stage, just took the aggressive edge off early spool up for driving up my dirt road to the back of my place(not a smooth fast going track). Just like lengthening the actuator rod 1/8 of a turn haha:cool:.
 

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Just like lengthening the actuator rod 1/8 of a turn haha:cool:
With this system of boost control, lengthening and shortening the actuator rod is surely all in the past. There are so many 'adjustments' (in vaccuum) can be made to work around it.
 
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Oh my god. You just reminded me.

I WAS using one today to see the actuator. I nestled down under my catch can to get the light right.

I wonder if it’s still there 🤦🏼‍♂️
Haha, I swapped out my tillix for a dawes today and went for a drive......
Got home and thought 'must have a look at that tillix, oh shyte, what did I do with it!!??
Found it sitting on the 2nd battery😱......lucky!
 
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One thing that’s bloody hard to do is tell exactly when the actuator sits against the stopper.
I lashed out and bought this guage
I used a 'T' and a length of vaccuum hose to mount the guage (temperarily) in the cab so I could see vaccum at the actuator.
20200810_150546.jpg

The vac hose is running through the window in this pic but I've found it works fine jammed in the door seal as you close the door.

With the vac guage in cab, you can clearly see where the actuator rod is and what it's doing. I've taken the guage out for the day just to drive it and appreciate how well it's going without trying to analyse it all the time!
 

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With this system of boost control, lengthening and shortening the actuator rod is surely all in the past. There are so many 'adjustments' (in vaccuum) can be made to work around it.
Primarily I have only needed to adjust actuator rod length ('Hg) when significant changes to induction were introduced and when my Procharge h/f turbo was first installed as it was laggy(turbine needed to spin up faster).

IMO these additional valve arrangement can provide for improved driveability but remain to be limited by the constraints of engine build state.
 

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Nothing will show you more than putting a gopro or similar under bonnet to watch the actuator in real life driving.
 

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My actuator start dancing again...
I’m impressed..
With a Chinese needle...(5,65€)
523775

I’ve read maybe 10 times all this 24 pages ...starting now to understand something..lol
Egt are quite the same
It feels more drivable And I notice that now I can do the same hill climb without change down gears
I’m wondering what my maf is doing..in
A few days I will be able..
Thanks Phil for this endless thread
 

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Nothing will show you more than putting a gopro or similar under bonnet to watch the actuator in real life driving.
That's true.....but.....you cant see it while you are driving.

Watching the vac guage you can see the reaction to your driving input, and if you know what vaccuum the actuator is at wide open and closed, you can estimate how far open (or closed) the vanes are.

What I've learnt with the guage in cab is how the vehicle 'feels' and 'sounds' if the vanes stay closed for too long or open too long. Before the vac guage I was only guessing.
 

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That's true.....but.....you cant see it while you are driving.

Watching the vac guage you can see the reaction to your driving input, and if you know what vaccuum the actuator is at wide open and closed, you can estimate how far open (or closed) the vanes are.

What I've learnt with the guage in cab is how the vehicle 'feels' and 'sounds' if the vanes stay closed for too long or open too long. Before the vac guage I was only guessing.
From my experience Loud and hollow with vanes open. Quiet with vanes closed. What I'm assuming is feathered seemed to be mid way with a really good working note and turbo diesel hiss to it.
 

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Using my phone connected to the gopro I record different situations, say taking off going up a hill onto a highway. Then I stop, view the footage and make adjustments. Then do the same again to see what has changed. It works for me and I feel the car overall is getting better and better
 
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Those who are setting the opening value of their valves with a pump or compressor, can you show me how you’ve set it up?

ive managed to get a presta valve into a piece of boost hose but my bike pumps inbuilt gauge is not that accurate under 20psi.

was hoping to use this to set my boost needle
 

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I used a tyre pressure guage that come with my polyair air bags.
Just unscrew the shraider fitting and push over a bit of hose, then using a 'T' join it in


Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
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