[speedy_1]

Hey Guys,

Just wanted your thoughts on the easy and best place to find 12 volt ignition switched source in the cab without running a wire through the fire wall???

Thanks

 

[Jok]

Easiest would be at the back of the cig lighter, not necessarily the best though(not heavy enough wire gauge for my liking) depends on what you want to do with the power,

 

[Mungrel]

Cigarette lighter... Ok if you're using it as a remote trigger wire (ie trigger a relay when the ignition is on) but other than that, do it right the first time and run the wire through the firewall.
There's a grommet on the passenger side firewall at the rear of the wheel well (accessible by engine bay)

If you're planning on adding more and more accessories (which lets be honest, we all do lol) Run 1 x thick gauge cable through the firewall (fused close to the battery of course) to a smaller fuse / distribution block in the cab as I've done.

BTW I say passenger side because I've got a second battery installed.
being a 3L, you should have a spare grommet on the drivers side as well (I'm guessing like my 2.8L, you'll have fly-by-wire meaning you can use the accelerator cable grommet)

 

[speedy_1]

thanks guys,

Yes i thought of the cig lighter but i also remember reading in a thread somewhere that there is a good spot in the drivers side kick pannel!
Cant find where i read it now

 

[Burra boy]

If you decide to run a lead through the firewall why not use a trailer wiring lead - 5 or 7 wire. You can never have enough wires....

 

[Schrinky]

As as been asked before, do you need power or are you using a trigger, if it is a trigger for turning something on fine but if you actually want to draw some current run new cable.

If you decide to run a lead through the firewall why not use a trailer wiring lead - 5 or 7 wire. You can never have enough wires....

Not a bad idea, but using a large gauge cable 4 or 3 b&s (rated at 160amp +-) means that you are guaranteed to have 12v exactly all the time and there is no risk of running short of amperage due to the laws of voltage loss. Plus what if you want to add an 8th item to the battery at that point, easier and neater to update a fuse block and just plug everything back in to it rather than having to run another set of cables.

Yes I know that 160amp is a lot, I just purchased 10m of 4b&s and have used that to multiple points in the car to run all the little extras that we all love (Fridge, lights, power points, inverter, etc)

Just some food for thought.

 

[Mungrel]

If you decide to run a lead through the firewall why not use a trailer wiring lead - 5 or 7 wire. You can never have enough wires....

My only issue with the trailer core stuff is its pretty low amperage rating I expect, and you still wind up with multiple terminals on the battery.

My solution:
Passenger Side Aux Battery:




Drivers side, Main Battery:


FWIW The passenger side is fairly low amperage stuff (2-way, Amplifier LED work light) If i was adding heaps more, or "heavier" accessories (fridge etc) I'd run much thicker cable through the firewall.

 

[speedy_1]

thanks guys,
I am only looking for power for a small circuit board, an iphone charger would probably pull more amps lol!
If i had to run anything substancial then definatelly run a heavy power cable straight from that battery as suggested

 

[dbsep]

Red and white wire coming off the ignition is heavy duty. It's also easy to get to from foot well as wire runs around steering rack.

 

[rocketrod54]

add a fuse

This one worked for me, but not suitable for heavy draw things,
or search for add a fuse on @bay

Narva 2X Blade Fuse TAP Holder ADD A Circuit ATM APM CAR Truck 5A 10A Mini | eBay