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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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Well the clutch housing is buggered.
It looked a little off when I went to clean it, wiped the crap off the front and its cracked pretty good.

View attachment 539800
View attachment 539801

With second hand Thomas winches and parts being a bit thin on the ground, getting a new one will be quickest and easiest, can't imagine it'll be cheap though.

I had a thought on a repair catering my inability to weld cast aluminium: grind the rib off the inside of the housing, cut some appropriately sized steel plate for both sides of the mounting flange to essentially sandwich the cracked face. Probably through bolt it in each corner of the sandwich plates and of course tap the mount holes into the steel plate inside the housing.
Not an ideal repair, especially since the mounting flange doesn't appear to be 100% square anymore. But its already stuffed, I can't stuff it any more.
Good to see the liquid inspiration in the background is working 馃嵒!

If you have a means of welding aluminium (MIG, TIG or Oxy), I'd try it. It may not be recommended, it may not even work. But molten metal will tend to stick to molten metal.
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Good to see the liquid inspiration in the background is working 馃嵒!

If you have a means of welding aluminium (MIG, TIG or Oxy), I'd try it. It may not be recommended, it may not even work. But molten metal will tend to stick to molten metal.
The liquid encouragement is a necessity to work on the ute lol.


I don't have a welder myself, but I'm sure if I put a call out on Facebook I could find a dodgy backyarder to do it. Good enough for me.
 

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I sorted out a couple of boxes of parts, and it turns out I have a genuine caliper rebuild kit here. Happy days. I think I bought it for the white shorty for when I go through the body and driveline on that. It'll happen one day... maybe... after the ute and wagon are done.
Grabbed some wheel cylinders as well. Still need to sort out a caliper carrier though. And/or front diff.

There's a bloke in Vic parting out a blue L28 shorty, from the pics the doors and front quarters appear better than what I currently have, and It'll have a 4.6 diff like the ute, so if I can get in contact with him I might end up buying half the car lol.

Bullbar and winch were removed from the ute, only had a rope hanging from the shed roof to help me. It was bloody heavy.
Pulling the winch down was a bit of a fight too. Mainly cause I had no idea how to do it and no press.

Dog clutch housing is just grease filled, interestingly once the winch is out of its mount, the housing just slides off. Which means it is also unsealed.
View attachment 539785
View attachment 539786

The gearbox end was a fight, the hub that the bronze gear bolts to is siezed to the driveshaft, and the worm needed a hell of a lot of persuasion to be separated from its front bearing before it could be removed.
To remove the driveshaft from I had to file down some burrs from, otherwise it would just jam in the bushings, so I'll try and clean it up again.
View attachment 539787

A parts diagram that I found shows an oil seal on the gearbox housing output, but this winch does not have that, so I assume its for a later revision, unfortunate because that leaves the gearbox unsealed in deep water.

On the plus side, all parts look to be in good nick and I don't forsee myself breaking it, it's ridiculously overbuilt for its 8000lb rating.
Why can't you make a gasket?

Fo
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Why can't you make a gasket?

Fo
The housing just sits on the drive shaft on the clutch side, so theres no way of getting a gasket to seal there.
And on the gearbox side, there is no bore to allow a seal on the driveshaft and it sits right up against the winch drum, so no room there.

Meh, not the end of the world. At least if water has an easy way in, it also has an easy way out lol.
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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If you leave it long enough the car will make its own drain holes lol
Maybe I should have just kept going with the Ute...


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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Maybe I should have just kept going with the Ute...


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At least it wouldn't hold water. Probably go alright too since its returned half of its steel back to the earth.

Sounds way easier and less proactive that Leethal's bilge pumps
Agreed, cheaper too. And with holes in the right places they can be used as cabin fresh air vents. Help keep the vinyl floors cool on those 40 degree days.

Letting the holes occur naturally adds value. It adds to the patina/barn find effect.

Hence why I could now offload the ute for 10k if I left 9k in cash in the glove box.
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Well I ended up buying a new dog clutch housing for the winch.
Being able to buy brand new parts off the shelf for a 40+ year old Aussie made winch ain't bad. Especially considering my winch is the older design with the 1 1/4" shaft. A while ago the winch was updated to a 1 1/2" shaft and apparently a different type of steel to meet some sort of emergency services requirement. The more you know.
I suspect this is the time that an oil seal was included in the gearbox housing, which mine lacks.

Automotive tire Gear Gas Automotive wheel system Machine


As can be seen in the above pic there are differences. There is now a sealed plastic plug in the housing instead of it being a one piece aluminium housing and I lose the end grease nipple which lubed the bushing and was supposed to lube between the surface of the shaft where the dog clutch rides. Guess it didn't work as well in practice as in theory since it was omitted on the later design. It does gain nipples that will dribble grease onto the clutch where the teeth engage and the engagement lever slide through.
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I may sound critical of the winch and it not being sealed against water, but a quality oil and a good coating of grease should see it being reasonably hydrophobic and resistant to corrosion. So I'm not too concerned.
The winch was pretty good internally when I pulled it down, and for all I know it could have never been serviced. I have painted, oiled or greased every surface that I can access during the rebuild help ensure it stays that way.

A regrease and oil change after a few deep water crossings probably isn't too much to ask anyway, especially when some major manufacturers (hello Warn) still don't trust their winches to be water proof and will not warrant against water ingress.

Plus it's engine, gearbox and transfer driven, so variable ratio between 346:1 and 73:1, plus variability in engine RPM. In theory, with enough load, I can have a turbocharged winch. Excellent.
 

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Plus it's engine, gearbox and transfer driven, so variable ratio between 346:1 and 73:1, plus variability in engine RPM. In theory, with enough load, I can have a turbocharged winch. Excellent.
Don't give big brands too many ideas, they'll start pointlessly putting the word 'turbo' on every one of their winches lol
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Don't give big brands too many ideas, they'll start pointlessly putting the word 'turbo' on every one of their winches lol
I'm surprised Kings haven't already started doing that with their winch lol.
 
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Being able to buy brand new parts off the shelf for a 40+ year old Aussie made winch ain't bad. Especially considering my winch is the older design with the 1 1/4" shaft. A while ago the winch was updated to a 1 1/2" shaft and apparently a different type of steel to meet some sort of emergency services requirement. The more you know.
Back in the day(80s), I used a Thomas PTO 8000LB T58 (so good), sold the vehicle kept the winch and is stored under corro sheets with other bits of past fun.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Gas Artifact
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Back in the day(80s), I used a Thomas PTO 8000LB T58 (so good), sold the vehicle kept the winch and is stored under corro sheets with other bits of past fun.
View attachment 541214
They certainly appear to be a fairly well made winch. I'll be interested to see how it performs in real world conditions.

What vehicle was your winch on? The cradle looks a little different to mine, but those leaf springs in the background look very much like standard MQ leaves.
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I think I've made an error. The PTO drive is driven off the transfer main shaft, so it doesn't get the 2.22:1 transfer low range ratio, rather the 1:1 high ratio.
So the winch ratio in 1st will be 156:1 and in 5th will be 33:1.
Assuming a 16cm rope+drum diameter, at 4000rpm in 5th gear that would give a theoretical winching speed of 61m/min. Probably not overly realistic or attainable in practice.
1st gear, 2000rpm and 10cm rope+drum diameter which would be nearly all rope spooled out is around 4m/min.

Also I pulled the rear cover/needle bearing housing off shorty today, didn't drop any needles which was nice. But it does not have the PTO drive gear on the main shaft that I need.
So on the ute hopefully the drive gear will play nice and be splined so it just slides off the main shaft after I somehow pull out the butchered split pin without dropping it into the transfer case and undo the nut that is no doubt torqued to 1875nm.
Guess the impact wrench is about to earn its keep.

The winch is now properly assembled though. The new housing is painted, as I had already painted the gearbox housing.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Machine Cylinder


When everything's installed I'll get some synthetic rope for it. The old steel cable is looking a little worse for wear and this thing isn't exactly light to begin with. Plus approx 30m of 5/16" cable looks almost lost on a drum this big.
 

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They certainly appear to be a fairly well made winch. I'll be interested to see how it performs in real world conditions.

What vehicle was your winch on? The cradle looks a little different to mine, but those leaf springs in the background look very much like standard MQ leaves.
I had it on a 1975 FJ45 SWB land cruiser, bought truck in 1983 (had it for 8 yrs). Bought the winch (new) off a bloke that changed his mind. The cradle and PTO unit incl drive shafts were for a 60 series cruiser. I modified the cradle to bolt to the FJ45 chassis rails and my father in law had a suitable PTO unit and bits and was a good setup.

The FJ45 originally had the 2F 4.2 petrol engine and I changed that out and put in a 4cyl B series NA diesel (built up one eng out of two)..If I can say here, this vehicle left me with great memories, no creature comforts but would work hard an would get in and out of tight places.

Having the ability to use the eng and gear ratios for winching suited me. The springs were off the SWB but similar vintage.
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I had it on a 1975 FJ45 SWB land cruiser, bought truck in 1983 (had it for 8 yrs). Bought the winch (new) off a bloke that changed his mind. The cradle and PTO unit incl drive shafts were for a 60 series cruiser. I modified the cradle to bolt to the FJ45 chassis rails and my father in law had a suitable PTO unit and bits and was a good setup.

The FJ45 originally had the 2F 4.2 petrol engine and I changed that out and put in a 4cyl B series NA diesel (built up one eng out of two)..If I can say here, this vehicle left me with great memories, no creature comforts but would work hard an would get in and out of tight places.

Having the ability to use the eng and gear ratios for winching suited me. The springs were off the SWB but similar vintage.
Very nice. Is your winch the wide or narrow drum? Wide is about 11.5", I think narrow was around 8.5".
Looking at the pic, I can't tell if a 40 chassis is wider, or the 60 series chassis is narrower than I remember.

As a shorty tragic I have a bit of a soft spot for 45s.
 
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