Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im having trouble with a soft brake pedal, the patrol is completely rebuilt from the ground up.
Have installed new brake disc on the front and new calipers and pads, ned shoes and piston in the rear, new flexi brake lines, new seal kit for master cylinder, didn't sort out the spongy pedal so new master cylinder complete installed...
system has been bleed with a vacuum bleeder and finished of manually in sequence with gravity bleeding, to insure clear fluid and no bubbles, using DOT 3 fluid..... im all out of ideas and are looking for advice and help from someone who may have gone through the same..thanks
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,843 Posts
Have you bled the proportioning valve? It is on the inside of the chassis rail, same side as the brake lines.
You can use a brake line clamp to lock off either the front or rear brakes to diagnose where the issue is coming from.
Check that the calipers are sliding and returning properly, and that the brakes aren't dragging without the brakes engaged.

Keep in mind, the 160 has garbage brake pedal feel and travel even when everything is working properly, it definitely should not sink to the floor under normal braking, but it won't feel like a modern vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
hi james, thanks for the reply...started the bleeding sequence from the proportioning valve, then the driver rear, passenger rear, driver front, passenger front.....I seen the sequence somewhere, could have been here.....callipers are new and are sliding properly...keep the subjections coming please
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,843 Posts
It sounds obvious, but go through and ensure all the threaded connections are tight and there's no leaks.
Also check that the rear shoes are correctly adjusted, excessive travel there will result in a long, soft pedal.
Did you try locking off the front or rear circuit to see if the issue changes, or can be isolated to either front or rear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
all connections are dry, no leaks anywhere, the rear shoes are adjusted just fine, i got so annoyed that i pulled out the new master cylinder and put in a old one from a donor jeep a bought for parts, installed it and bleed the system again, and what do you know, the pedal was holding firm and not dropping ....
so the new master cylinder, the new master cylinder repair kit for the original are all in a box up on the shelve, and the old master cylinder with approx 60,000 miles is doing the job..... go figure.....
thanks for all the support, im sure ill need you again some day
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,843 Posts
Glad to hear its sorted.
I didn't mention master cyl issues because I thought it would be too much of a stretch to have a dud new master cyl and a dud rebuilt one.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top