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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi ill start with interducing my self. My name is Ethan and Im 16 and i have an 1989 nissan patrol TB42 Carby.

Okay so I have a 1989 nissan patrol TB42 carby and it has been gas converted but it also runs on petrol, It start first turn every time and works amazingly but after about 15-20 minutes it starts coughing and running quite rough, Im really stumped here because ive replace the spark plugs, leads, vaccum hose, distributor and its been tuned, Im just really confused because its only when its warm not when its cold.

I appreciate any help i can get THANKS HEAPS!
 

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just a good guy.
2009 gu ute
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What happens when you turn gas off and run just on petrol.
 

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nissan
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Have you checked the engine coolant level? Is it low? If it is the LPG convertor could be freezing up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The engine coolant is fine and not low and ive made sure its not freezing up.
And for the petrol its curenttly not working, I think the pump is brocken but im not sure where it is i checked the manul had a look where its meant to be and its not there
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dkril coil is the only thing ive not replaced but will be done very soon
I just feel like its not going to end there haha
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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dkril coil is the only thing ive not replaced but will be done very soon
I just feel like its not going to end there haha
The only reason I suggest the coil is because I had the same problem with my BA Falcon. The coils were degraded (supposed to be replaced at 100K km; they were still the originals at 250K km when they started playing up), and would run fine until they got warm/hot after about 15m running.

At first I could get around the problem (at that stage I hadn't worked out what was wrong) by running on petrol, but over time it became worse and worse on both fuels, until I had the plugs and leads done.
 

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There is a control box for the LPG system that will sit against the firewall usually. It controls lock offs etc. I have seen in a couple situations when it begins to die it causes the issues you are seeing. It starts and runs for a period of time and then dies and wont start again. If you are in Melbourne I am happy to lend you one to test this
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is a control box for the LPG system that will sit against the firewall usually. It controls lock offs etc. I have seen in a couple situations when it begins to die it causes the issues you are seeing. It starts and runs for a period of time and then dies and wont start again. If you are in Melbourne I am happy to lend you one to test this
Hey thanks for the offer but im in Western australia.
But ill be sure to check the control box next time im working on it.

I should also have the new ignition coil in the next month or so
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only reason I suggest the coil is because I had the same problem with my BA Falcon. The coils were degraded (supposed to be replaced at 100K km; they were still the originals at 250K km when they started playing up), and would run fine until they got warm/hot after about 15m running.

At first I could get around the problem (at that stage I hadn't worked out what was wrong) by running on petrol, but over time it became worse and worse on both fuels, until I had the plugs and leads done.
Actually funnily enough my cars having these problems at 243k the ignition coil that is installed is a bosch gt40r. What would you recommend
i get as replacement
 

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Hey thanks for the offer but im in Western australia.
But ill be sure to check the control box next time im working on it.

I should also have the new ignition coil in the next month or so
Send me a PM as I part them and will have a few of these control boxes in the parts bin. Happy to help a young fella get his beast on the road for the cost of postage...
 

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Actually funnily enough my cars having these problems at 243k the ignition coil that is installed is a bosch gt40r. What would you recommend
i get as replacement
I have no idea whatsoever. I'd suggest contacting Nizzbits here on the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Send me a PM as I part them and will have a few of these control boxes in the parts bin. Happy to help a young fella get his beast on the road for the cost of postage...
Wow thanks alot. Im gonna see how the coil goes first as i dont want to take a part off your hands that i may not need when someone else who needs it could have it.
I will PM you after i see how the coil goes. Thanks for the offer though.
 

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Check if you have a heater bypass hose, try running the truck with the heater on. If it’s ok then you need a heater bypass. The gas converter needs colletent running though it. The coolant is in line with the heater, Often installers don’t put a bypass hose in for when the heater is off
 

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Actually funnily enough my cars having these problems at 243k the ignition coil that is installed is a bosch gt40r. What would you recommend
i get as replacement
You dont happen to have an external Ballast Resistor under your coil now do you ?
If so, you need a coil without the "R" (Non resistor)
If you have both, your coil voltage will get down to 4 volts and missfire will be inevitable .
 

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Nice to see a young bloke with an interest other than his phone - good on ya son !
Old "analogue" vehicles are a pleasure to work on normally because they are simple and logical. Most special diagnostic tools involve use of eyes, ears and senses, compared to special diagnostic plug ins and meters.
It's just a matter of learning to trust yourself and the advice of those experienced rather than an expensive electronic gizmo.

Use special tool 3357J L (left hand) or 3357J R (right hand) temperature sensor.

Run engine until warm, and when engine begins running rough, place special tool 3357J L/R on the gas converter (mounted on side of engine bay) . If tool reads "ouch" hot = then the gas converter is properly heated with warm engine coolant.
If tool reads "ooh" cool/cold = gas converter is icing up.

To test ignition coil, repeat warm up procedure and place special tool 3357J L/R on body of ignition coil.
If tool reads "ouch" hot, coil is faulty.
If tool reads "hmm" warm = coil operation is normal.

Your description of it "running rough" tends to point toward the coil/electrics, as an iced converter will generally just starve the motor when you try to rev it up or load it.

In the 89 GQ's there was an electrical connector behind the battery that would oxidise up and create resistance in the power going to the coil. If your LPG converter and coil seem to be the right temperature, run a jump wire from the battery positive to the input side of the coil resistor. If the engine suddenly runs sweet, it is the power supply to the coil at fault.

Any help you need, just ask. There are a lot of old timers on here, with a ton of wisdom, just aching for some young-un to finally just take some advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What rpm is it doing when running rough? Does it clear with more rpm? Auto or manual?
Yes as you accelerate from an lower rpm up to a higher rpm it runs rough at the low rpm, at the higher end it is no where near as bad. My gq is also an automatic model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice to see a young bloke with an interest other than his phone - good on ya son !
Old "analogue" vehicles are a pleasure to work on normally because they are simple and logical. Most special diagnostic tools involve use of eyes, ears and senses, compared to special diagnostic plug ins and meters.
It's just a matter of learning to trust yourself and the advice of those experienced rather than an expensive electronic gizmo.

Use special tool 3357J L (left hand) or 3357J R (right hand) temperature sensor.

Run engine until warm, and when engine begins running rough, place special tool 3357J L/R on the gas converter (mounted on side of engine bay) . If tool reads "ouch" hot = then the gas converter is properly heated with warm engine coolant.
If tool reads "ooh" cool/cold = gas converter is icing up.

To test ignition coil, repeat warm up procedure and place special tool 3357J L/R on body of ignition coil.
If tool reads "ouch" hot, coil is faulty.
If tool reads "hmm" warm = coil operation is normal.

Your description of it "running rough" tends to point toward the coil/electrics, as an iced converter will generally just starve the motor when you try to rev it up or load it.

In the 89 GQ's there was an electrical connector behind the battery that would oxidise up and create resistance in the power going to the coil. If your LPG converter and coil seem to be the right temperature, run a jump wire from the battery positive to the input side of the coil resistor. If the engine suddenly runs sweet, it is the power supply to the coil at fault.

Any help you need, just ask. There are a lot of old timers on here, with a ton of wisdom, just aching for some young-un to finally just take some advice
Wow first I have to say thank you for the amount of time you took to write such a detailed reply. I have not really touched the car in the past month and I have only read this now, I will be checking this for sure as it may save me the money I was about to spend to see if my one was faulty.
I was wondering if mine is faulty what would you recommend I purchase as an replacement coil. I have also heard for running on gas you need a ignition coil that produces a higher voltage. Is this a thing I need to worry about?
 
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