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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Been slow progress on the 46" project, my times been split between two other projects. A 6.5 swapped y60 on 44" and an old dodge ram I have on 38".
I have however managed to do a couple of things.
Managed to fabricate the links for the rear. Just welded some bolts to some square tubing for a cheap jig and cut the 50 mm heavy wall pipe to fit between the bushing tubes.

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All in all I'm pretty pleased with this first attempt at a triangulated four link
I also quickly tossed up four body mounts onto the frame as to locate the body when it goes on. I will then bolt the other new mounts and weld them to the frame after the body is on, seems easier this way.
The mounts at the rear need to be moved forward 15 cm because of the frame extension and all of them will be raised 5 cm as a body lift.

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These mounts are not finished. Gotta drill out the plates on the two near the center of the frame and brace the ones at the rear. But all in all it's coming along.
Funny seeing as I go along how tall it's going to be. On the 46" baja claws I suspect the floor in the rear will be at my shoulder, standing at 186 cm. It may introduce problems later on but I'll deal with those when the arise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Quick update on the GQ. Been fiddling around with the panhard on the front axle and the steering
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I stared at this for a good long while and finally settled on this after 3 different brackets. Because I've moved the axle so far forward, space is at a premium as to not foul the steering


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I'm using the steering box out of the donor GU Y61. Mostly because it's a lot less worn. I'm gonna need a new drop arm for it, have to get that from a company here in Iceland that makes them. It's one of the very few things I'm not allowed to make myself. That arm has the same drop only the link goes up into the bottom of the arm not down into it.

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I'm also gonna have to make a new high steer arm because this one is meant for a y60 axle and apparently the Y61 axle has more angle on the spindle inwards. I'm not sure I'm allowed to fab it myself but I'm gonna do it anyways.
A lot more small details different between the generations than I thought.
Just gotta keep going, no such thing as can't do.
As always open to any critique or suggestions.
 

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On my truck project I had the taper recut on the other side of the Y60 pitman arm, I used a tie rod end that I found with the M22 thread. The recut taper still left more meat in the pitman than was on the Y60 original arm.

I can probably find out what the tie rod end came off, I think it was a landcruiser or Hilux...

Here is a drawing that clarifies it;

Text White Line Black Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
On my truck project I had the taper recut on the other side of the Y60 pitman arm, I used a tie rod end that I found with the M22 thread. The recut taper still left more meat in the pitman than was on the Y60 original arm.

I can probably find out what the tie rod end came off, I think it was a landcruiser or Hilux...

Here is a drawing that clarifies it;

View attachment 527649
I had considered that. Might even experiment with that before I buy the other one.
The only problem with the original Y61 arm is that the arm itself is a bit spindly and cast steel. Especially with the 46" tyres, guys here have been breaking the arm.
Now I'm gonna be running a hydraulic ram to assist so it might be fine. Just not sure.
 

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I had considered that. Might even experiment with that before I buy the other one.
The only problem with the original Y61 arm is that the arm itself is a bit spindly and cast steel. Especially with the 46" tyres, guys here have been breaking the arm.
Now I'm gonna be running a hydraulic ram to assist so it might be fine. Just not sure.
Yeah I understand. The y61 one is massive compared to the y60, but I'm only running 33s so it will be more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ok so it's been a while and a lot has happened . Been too busy with work and other things to properly update this thread so I'm gonna dump quite heavily now but if any questions arise don't hesitate to ask. A lot of this stuff is probably gonna seem weird.
Motor vehicle Arthropod Automotive tire Auto part Insect

Wheel Tire Crankset Bicycle Bicycle tire

Stool Wood Gas Art Automotive wheel system

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Automotive tire Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Bicycle fork

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire Bicycle fork Wood

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Finished the front and rear axle with bracing, 5.42 gears and air lockers. I'm a cheap bastard so I bought lockers from china. Good reputation in Iceland at least.
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper


Both lockers have been stress tested and worked beautifully . Gonna post more in the coming days from the build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Next up was some modifications to the motor. I decided to keep the RD28 for a while no but to get it to spin the 46's it needed some help. Started disassembly and pulled the head off.
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The injection pump got an upgrade from a 9 mm plunger to a 12 mm

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I had intended to stud the head but couldn't find any kit so I decided to make my own. Ordered some 12.9 grade socket hex bolts with a long shank and threaded the other side. Turned out good and I was able to torque them down to about 185 NM.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Tire Wood


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Paint Fork Cutlery Paint brush Metalworking hand tool


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The reason for the studs was to hold the head on whilst boosting the hell out of it. I got a GT2560r turbo from a sr20 engine I believe. I'm hoping to push 30 psi into it. So I deleted the waste gate. Mostly because I couldn't fit it
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Gas Automotive fuel system


Moved the inlet to the manifold to the top for better distribution and to make intercooler piping easier

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Bumper



Another fault of the RD28 is where the coolant exits the head to the heater core. Originally it is taken out between cylinder 5 and 6 so there is usually stale hot coolant at cylinder 6. This is usually where the head gasket fails.
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Did a few other small things but that is most of the big stuff for the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
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Jumping forward most of the suspension work was done. It was time to put the body on


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Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


Got it inside and put the fenders on. Installed the radiator and piped for the intercooler. Basically just reassembly.
Had to make new driveshafts and adjust the injection pump. But got it to the point where I could drive it. Put the 46's under it and want for a drive.
Could not for the life of me go faster than 60 kph or it would try to buck me of the road. Worst death wobble I had ever felt.

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Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Vehicle


Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Vehicle


Back on 37's to get it into the garage . Had to adjust a few things. I had to brace the drag link because it was to flimsy and had to readjust the hydraulic ram and drill out the steering box to a bigger fitting
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More of some minor adjustments but now I can drive it properly. No issues with steering. Still need to do more testing and turn down the injection pump. Smoking a bit too much but pulls nicely and Has some good potential off-road.
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Car
 

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