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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello out there fellow Patrol'ers,

I am sure this has been discussed to death, but I am struggling to find some definitive answers on the forum. What I have is one of the many GU Patrols with marginal cooling capacity. I am finding that it often ends up getting up to over 115 degrees (measured at the factory port in the top of the thermostat housing). This is usually with the A/C already off, and at highway kms. The oil temp is typically the same within a few degrees.

The previous owner removed the gearbox cooling and this now runs through a separate cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

I am in the process of getting replacement parts to fit up a bigger radiator, and am considering blanking off the turbo water cooling feeds on the factory turbo to assist in reducing the coolant temps, and hopefully in turn the oil temps also.

Can anyone weigh in on this? Is it worth doing or are there any downsides to doing so? I have already fitted an after market intercooler to the intake, if that makes any difference.

Any help would be appreciated, cheers.
 

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Not worth doing, you won't notice any difference. Take a look at the size of the factory turbo coolant feed pipe coming out of the lower left side of the block. There's not a lot of coolant going through there.

Removing the trans cooling from the bottom of the radiator was a good idea. It might even have been done because the coolant was contaminating the transmission. Don't put it back just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi JFF45,

Thanks for the reply, good to know it wont make much of a difference. I assumed given the 3-400 degree temps in the turbo that this would be super heating the coolant.

I believe the previous owner removed it as they were getting high temps and blew a hose because of it. Engine has been completely rebuilt since.

Noticed on my most recent drive that there seems to be coolant leaking out of what I assume is the a/c overflow pipe which is concerning.
 

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Noticed on my most recent drive that there seems to be coolant leaking out of what I assume is the a/c overflow pipe which is concerning.
Do you mean coolant or clear water? Clear water will drip out from the pipe in the left side firewall. It's condensation from the evaporator.
 

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I know this might sound silly, But if you re position your temp probe from the thermostat housing and position it in the block or head like every other engine on the market you will have a very much stable and lower temp reading on your gauge. Obviously this will reduce your stress looking at the nissan gauge all the time thinking its too hot..

I really think many of our TD prone running hot engines are more a product of probe position and its unstable readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi John,

I'm, reasonably sure its coolant, I put the a/c on full heat to check what was going on at the radiator overflow was bubbling and I later realized actually blowing steam.

I have since checked and the radiator and this is not bubbling so I am a tad confused what has cause this. This is what sent me searching, and subsequently noticing the overflowing heater. I have attached a couple photos to show what I mean.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know this might sound silly, But if you re position your temp probe from the thermostat housing and position it in the block or head like every other engine on the market you will have a very much stable and lower temp reading on your gauge. Obviously this will reduce your stress looking at the nissan gauge all the time thinking its too hot..

I really think many of our TD prone running hot engines are more a product of probe position and its unstable readings.
Hi OldMav,

Thanks for the advice, I was working on a "worst case" location for the probe, which I figured over the thermostat would be. Hottest before being cooled. I have noticed that the oil, which has the temp probe in a sandwich plate by the filter is almost exactly the same temp 90% of the time.

Re. the Nissan gauge, helpfully someone has tinkered with that so it is constantly moving rather than showing a consistent reading.
 

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I know this might sound silly, But if you re position your temp probe from the thermostat housing and position it in the block or head like every other engine on the market you will have a very much stable and lower temp reading on your gauge. Obviously this will reduce your stress looking at the nissan gauge all the time thinking its too hot..

I really think many of our TD prone running hot engines are more a product of probe position and its unstable readings.
I agree it is a hot place to read but it doesn't mean there isn't an issue.
Mine (00 td42t) also has a sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator than switches the aircon compressor off when it senses the coolant is too hot. I don't know what temp it does this at.
Since I upgraded the fan (g35) and hub (2 tubes toyo silicone oil) high flow thermostat and put the jpc water pump in it hasn't done this and the temp gauge doesn't move either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I agree it is a hot place to read but it doesn't mean there isn't an issue.
Mine (00 td42t) also has a sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator than switches the aircon compressor off when it senses the coolant is too hot. I don't know what temp it does this at.
Since I upgraded the fan (g35) and hub (2 tubes toyo silicone oil) high flow thermostat and put the jpc water pump in it hasn't done this and the temp gauge doesn't move either.
That's all very interesting.

Do you have any links to those items?

I know mine has the AC switch, but this also doesn't ever turn off the AC, so would be interested what temp it is set to. The thermo fan on the front of the AC panel comes on withing about 10 min of starting if the vehicle isn't moving, regardless of whether the ac is running or not. Cheers.
 

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That's all very interesting.

Do you have any links to those items?

I know mine has the AC switch, but this also doesn't ever turn off the AC, so would be interested what temp it is set to. The thermo fan on the front of the AC panel comes on withing about 10 min of starting if the vehicle isn't moving, regardless of whether the ac is running or not. Cheers.
https://www.facebook.com/JohnsonsPerformanceCentre/

scroll down for the water pump.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/tb42-tb45-td42-clutch-fan-mods-302049/

G35 fan


Tridon | industrial, automotive, hardware | Part Finder

thermostat.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine...935999&hash=item2ccf32d2d6:g:rUUAAOSw4aFam3Ii

I put 2 tubes of this oil on top of what was in a new fan hub. You can get it from a toyota dealer for cheaper probably.

https://youtu.be/mMDqW5u8w-w

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/engine-running-hot-td42-62472/index52.html

This thread has heaps of info.
 

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I know this might sound silly, But if you re position your temp probe from the thermostat housing and position it in the block or head like every other engine on the market you will have a very much stable and lower temp reading on your gauge. Obviously this will reduce your stress looking at the nissan gauge all the time thinking its too hot..

I really think many of our TD prone running hot engines are more a product of probe position and its unstable readings.
Peter, do you have a couple of convenient spots in mind. I haven't seen anyone show an easy spot that I recall.
 

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GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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Peter, do you have a couple of convenient spots in mind. I haven't seen anyone show an easy spot that I recall.
There is a spot on the oil cooler i used on the GQ, would need to check to make sure. but the GU gas a convenient plate that use to supply water to cool the EGR cooler system. Well there should be a 3 bolt blanking plate when you removed that crap.
 

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the air con cut out temp was mentioned not that long ago but I don't recall clearly and cant find the thread. 115 or 118 comes to mind.
 

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There is a spot on the oil cooler i used on the GQ, would need to check to make sure. but the GU gas a convenient plate that use to supply water to cool the EGR cooler system. Well there should be a 3 bolt blanking plate when you removed that crap.
No EGR on a 2001. Whereabouts is that plate, or at least where it bolts to.
 

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I just looked on my Silvertop there is a plate impression with 3 holes around it just in front of the oil filter block. in the centre of that alloy block i drilled a 1/4 Bsp taped hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Right, so it's been some time and I figure an update would be good.

Pulled out my factory spec radiator and found it was chokka full of mud (See image). Had a mate helping and he was all too happy to give it a good hose out. Put it in the shed for another day anyways as I had previously bought a Redline 40% increased capacity alloy radiator to replace it with. Swapped this in along with a high flow thermostat, and a full flush and new coolant. Took it for a good 100km blast up a hill and it never got over 92, and rapidly cooled to hover around 78/80 for the majority of the time.

As if already ordered the gear, I've fitted up a g35 fan and the toyota silicon grease to the fan hub. Will keep you all informed of the developments from here!

Have attached a selection of picks for you all to peruse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's all very interesting.

Do you have any links to those items?

I know mine has the AC switch, but this also doesn't ever turn off the AC, so would be interested what temp it is set to. The thermo fan on the front of the AC panel comes on withing about 10 min of starting if the vehicle isn't moving, regardless of whether the ac is running or not. Cheers.
https://www.facebook.com/JohnsonsPerformanceCentre/

scroll down for the water pump.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/tb42-tb45-td42-clutch-fan-mods-302049/

G35 fan


Tridon | industrial, automotive, hardware | Part Finder

thermostat.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine...935999&hash=item2ccf32d2d6:g:rUUAAOSw4aFam3Ii

I put 2 tubes of this oil on top of what was in a new fan hub. You can get it from a toyota dealer for cheaper probably.

https://youtu.be/mMDqW5u8w-w

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/engine-running-hot-td42-62472/index52.html

This thread has heaps of info.
Big thanks for all your suggestions !!
 

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Not sure about gu, but after I replaced the thermostat in my gq td42ti with longer engine bypass closing valve, it solved the problem of running hot.

The idea is that the factory thermostat is too short to reach out to block the bypass port. So the coolant is still circulating in the engine at very high temperature. So no matter how powerful your cooling system is, it just doesn't help.

If you replace it with 38mm length one, it just needs to open 2mm to block the port, after then the coolant will fully circulate in the radiator and get cooled.

Gu might be slightly different but the idea is the same.

$40 might save your precious factory td42ti. :)






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